Discussion
Evening all,
I've just changed the coil, rotor arm and distributor cap on my 1999 4ltr chim; now the car won't start. The leads are all numbered and they have been replaced on the cap as per the "bible" diagram, the coil connections etc cannot be incorrectly fitted as they are male/female. Ive put all the old stuff back on but still no joy (since refitted the new coil)
The components are being changed as a precaution following a small breakdown a few weeks ago when the car cut out and would not restart for about 40mins. since then though hardly used it has felt a bit rough at times.
I've checked No2 plug which was fairly dry and was offering a spark when tested out of the cyl head.
will leave until morning then try again.
Anyone had a similar experience?
Cheers
Richard
I've just changed the coil, rotor arm and distributor cap on my 1999 4ltr chim; now the car won't start. The leads are all numbered and they have been replaced on the cap as per the "bible" diagram, the coil connections etc cannot be incorrectly fitted as they are male/female. Ive put all the old stuff back on but still no joy (since refitted the new coil)
The components are being changed as a precaution following a small breakdown a few weeks ago when the car cut out and would not restart for about 40mins. since then though hardly used it has felt a bit rough at times.
I've checked No2 plug which was fairly dry and was offering a spark when tested out of the cyl head.
will leave until morning then try again.
Anyone had a similar experience?
Cheers
Richard
You say the following:
"The components are being changed as a precaution following a small breakdown a few weeks ago when the car cut out and would not restart for about 40mins"
I doubt the above is unconnected with your current starting fault.
It's too easy to wrongly assume what you have replaced is causing the fault.
Indeed by reinstating the old components you have (to some degree) eliminated the new components as the cause.
However it is still possible have wrongly routed the the leads.
But you say the leads are numbered, and assuming you were systematic in your approach it seems highly unlikely you have failed to connect the HT leads in the correct order.
I am drawn to your following comment:
"the car cut out and would not restart for about 40mins".
That sounds like one of the relays in the imobiliser, you say you have spark so I also assume you have a working starter motor & the engine is cranking?
If it's cranking and you have spark the next question I have is "Do you have fuel?".
Can you hear the tell tale buzz & whine from the fuel pump when you disengage the imobiliser?
You can have all the spark you like, if there is no fuel there is no bang.
Obviously if the spark is happening at the wrong time (leads routed incorrectly) you can have all the fuel & spark you like, but the best you will ever get is a big backfire or laboured cranking.
At the end of the day, if we are going to help you further we need a bit more information on what it's doing/not doing.
"The components are being changed as a precaution following a small breakdown a few weeks ago when the car cut out and would not restart for about 40mins"
I doubt the above is unconnected with your current starting fault.
It's too easy to wrongly assume what you have replaced is causing the fault.
Indeed by reinstating the old components you have (to some degree) eliminated the new components as the cause.
However it is still possible have wrongly routed the the leads.
But you say the leads are numbered, and assuming you were systematic in your approach it seems highly unlikely you have failed to connect the HT leads in the correct order.
I am drawn to your following comment:
"the car cut out and would not restart for about 40mins".
That sounds like one of the relays in the imobiliser, you say you have spark so I also assume you have a working starter motor & the engine is cranking?
If it's cranking and you have spark the next question I have is "Do you have fuel?".
Can you hear the tell tale buzz & whine from the fuel pump when you disengage the imobiliser?
You can have all the spark you like, if there is no fuel there is no bang.
Obviously if the spark is happening at the wrong time (leads routed incorrectly) you can have all the fuel & spark you like, but the best you will ever get is a big backfire or laboured cranking.
At the end of the day, if we are going to help you further we need a bit more information on what it's doing/not doing.
The car has been run since it cut out/brokedown but no more than 5mls at a time, though it has been fully warmed up on each occasion.
When it broke down it appeared to me to be some sort of electrical fault as it simply died when I was about to move off in traffic. The car was cranking fine and the fuel pump engaging pre start, also set/reset the alarm several times. The car restarted just before the recovery truck arrived so I took a chance and drove it home, symptoms on way home (dual carraigeway almost all the way) spluttered on initial throttle whenever re accelorating in 4/5th at probably between 60-80mph. Once off the dual carraigeway the revs were fluxuating around 2500-3000rpm on idle (slow driving once in the housing estate). I took the car out later that day and it seemed to run fine, though maybe not quite as smoothly as before. As i've since been on holiday it has only been moved in/out the garage but would always start first time.
The car started fine tonight as expected; so i took it out the garage to work in the evening sunshine. The task of changing the coil, cap & arm is pretty straight forward, hence my frustration at having to push it back into the garage!! (for what its worth the coil looked very tatty with paint flaking off and signs of rust, the dist showed slight wear on the contacts). The only other thing I did was wipe the ignition module with a rag to see the part No's, again though all connections seem ok.
When it broke down it appeared to me to be some sort of electrical fault as it simply died when I was about to move off in traffic. The car was cranking fine and the fuel pump engaging pre start, also set/reset the alarm several times. The car restarted just before the recovery truck arrived so I took a chance and drove it home, symptoms on way home (dual carraigeway almost all the way) spluttered on initial throttle whenever re accelorating in 4/5th at probably between 60-80mph. Once off the dual carraigeway the revs were fluxuating around 2500-3000rpm on idle (slow driving once in the housing estate). I took the car out later that day and it seemed to run fine, though maybe not quite as smoothly as before. As i've since been on holiday it has only been moved in/out the garage but would always start first time.
The car started fine tonight as expected; so i took it out the garage to work in the evening sunshine. The task of changing the coil, cap & arm is pretty straight forward, hence my frustration at having to push it back into the garage!! (for what its worth the coil looked very tatty with paint flaking off and signs of rust, the dist showed slight wear on the contacts). The only other thing I did was wipe the ignition module with a rag to see the part No's, again though all connections seem ok.
Quinny said:
The diagram might not necessarily match your car....... If the dizzy has been turned at sume time number 1 can be in a different position to the diagram....
You need to get No 1 piston to TDC and see where the rotor arm is pointing.... Then refit the leads as per firing order
That would be my first choice!You need to get No 1 piston to TDC and see where the rotor arm is pointing.... Then refit the leads as per firing order
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