Deep scratch repair
Discussion
Can anyone help me out here. This video show some guy removing a fairly deep surface scratch.
I've got a few similar scratches and marks on my car and wouldn't mind trying out this - however, the video is pretty light on actual details. So could anyone tell me:
What grade sand paper is he using?
What are the liquids that he puts on the scratch after the sand paper and then to polish up the area?
Would you be able to do it my hand, rather than using machine?
Thanks in advance
I've got a few similar scratches and marks on my car and wouldn't mind trying out this - however, the video is pretty light on actual details. So could anyone tell me:
What grade sand paper is he using?
What are the liquids that he puts on the scratch after the sand paper and then to polish up the area?
Would you be able to do it my hand, rather than using machine?
Thanks in advance
If the scratch seems to disappear when wetted then it MAY polish out. If it doesn't then it won't.
It's very risky & there is every chance of going through the clearcoat. If that happens its game over & paint time.
I have done it quite a few times though, combination of fine - 1500 or 2000 grade - wet&dry used wet with frequent fine compound polishing (3M Perfect-it 111 on a soft mop)to see if you've done enough, but I always explain to the customer that it is entirely at their own risk & I will only attempt it if they accept the quote to repaint the area. Obviously if it polishes out I reduce the charge accordingly! Don't try & do the job in 5 minutes though, slowly slowly is the way.
Be prepared to accept a visual improvement - loses the whiteness of the scratch & takes the eye off it - as opposed to completely gone & flat as the more you remove the greater the risk.
Not something I would attempt on a car that has been detailed or that has had a scratch sanded in the same area before due to the thinning of the clearcoat in both processes.
It's very risky & there is every chance of going through the clearcoat. If that happens its game over & paint time.
I have done it quite a few times though, combination of fine - 1500 or 2000 grade - wet&dry used wet with frequent fine compound polishing (3M Perfect-it 111 on a soft mop)to see if you've done enough, but I always explain to the customer that it is entirely at their own risk & I will only attempt it if they accept the quote to repaint the area. Obviously if it polishes out I reduce the charge accordingly! Don't try & do the job in 5 minutes though, slowly slowly is the way.
Be prepared to accept a visual improvement - loses the whiteness of the scratch & takes the eye off it - as opposed to completely gone & flat as the more you remove the greater the risk.
Not something I would attempt on a car that has been detailed or that has had a scratch sanded in the same area before due to the thinning of the clearcoat in both processes.
Edited by paintman on Sunday 24th July 22:03
As Paintman says, there are risks attached to wet flatting. Also, the area will look shinier than the surrounding paintwork as the orange peel present in the majority of car's lacquer will have been dramatically reduced. If the work is on a flat area like a bonnet, it's likely to show up on inspection. Obviously, only PH'ers will notice!
Cheers
David
Cheers
David
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