Beware - under no circumstances do this
Discussion
To quote HJ2 from the modelvintageaeroplane:
"Conversely, with the nut turned fully home [in the overrun valve] so virtually no air can pass through it from the AFM causing the ECU to add hardly any extra fuel, the"inst mpg" figure on Overrun will show as high as 140 mpg, depending of course on the Overrun speed.
The higher the speed, the higher the "inst mpg" reading. Mind you (Boy Racers please note), under those conditions, in addition to the crackling exhaust, the flames from the tail pipe are spectacular at the dead of night and by the dark of the moon."
Hmmm... are you thinking what I'm thinking... ;^)
"Conversely, with the nut turned fully home [in the overrun valve] so virtually no air can pass through it from the AFM causing the ECU to add hardly any extra fuel, the"inst mpg" figure on Overrun will show as high as 140 mpg, depending of course on the Overrun speed.
The higher the speed, the higher the "inst mpg" reading. Mind you (Boy Racers please note), under those conditions, in addition to the crackling exhaust, the flames from the tail pipe are spectacular at the dead of night and by the dark of the moon."
Hmmm... are you thinking what I'm thinking... ;^)
Looks like I was beaten to it 22 years ago...
I took off the valve and it's been blanked off with a plug of nylon - presumably by Dennis Priddle ;^)
One mystery solved but another one opens - while the valve cover was off I prodded around inside the plenum and it appears that the trumpets are loose - the rear one very loose. I think this might explain some of my funny running problems, so I have another little job for tomorrow...
(corrected the date - only 3 years to go to official classic status...)
I took off the valve and it's been blanked off with a plug of nylon - presumably by Dennis Priddle ;^)
One mystery solved but another one opens - while the valve cover was off I prodded around inside the plenum and it appears that the trumpets are loose - the rear one very loose. I think this might explain some of my funny running problems, so I have another little job for tomorrow...
(corrected the date - only 3 years to go to official classic status...)
Edited by adam quantrill on Thursday 28th July 00:35
Depending upon mixture setting - not all fuel is burned inside the exhaust and exits the tail pipe, smelling of petrol - of course - not uncommon.
Rig up a coil and amplifier, triggered separately from the horn, plus a spark plug on its own lead mounted on a metal bracket 3 inches behind the tail pipe and upon sounding the horn to get folks attention ALL the fuel ignites, ah la flame-thrower, giving new meaning to the phrase 'going for a burn-up'.
Rig up a coil and amplifier, triggered separately from the horn, plus a spark plug on its own lead mounted on a metal bracket 3 inches behind the tail pipe and upon sounding the horn to get folks attention ALL the fuel ignites, ah la flame-thrower, giving new meaning to the phrase 'going for a burn-up'.
honestjohntoo said:
Depending upon mixture setting - not all fuel is burned inside the exhaust and exits the tail pipe, smelling of petrol - of course - not uncommon.
Rig up a coil and amplifier, triggered separately from the horn, plus a spark plug on its own lead mounted on a metal bracket 3 inches behind the tail pipe and upon sounding the horn to get folks attention ALL the fuel ignites, ah la flame-thrower, giving new meaning to the phrase 'going for a burn-up'.
That sounds a jolly good idea..It certainly would deal with the numpties that drive too close behind..BBQ Tin tops..Rig up a coil and amplifier, triggered separately from the horn, plus a spark plug on its own lead mounted on a metal bracket 3 inches behind the tail pipe and upon sounding the horn to get folks attention ALL the fuel ignites, ah la flame-thrower, giving new meaning to the phrase 'going for a burn-up'.
Aaah that reminds me of the time on the M11 when I had all the stuffing blowing out of me exhaust - occasionally it would build up in the rear sections and I would loose power - enabling said numpties to catch up - until "plooof" and a big bit of wadding shot out like a smokescreen - they didn't tailgate after that I can tell you ;^)
Look over these instructions. Haven't tried myself.
Flame Thrower Kit Info
Here is a list of items you will need:
1. You will need a relay that they use at the stereo shop for alarms or Halfrauds for lights etc.,
make sure the relay has the numbers 87, 87a, 86, 85, 30 on it, if it
doesn't then that is the wrong relay.
2. Go to Halfrauds or other parts store and get an old style coil that
has the positive and negative on it just like the one from the old TVR.
3. Coil wire for the coil about 3 feet long or longer if you can get it.
4. Spark plug.
5. A momentary switch.
6. Roll of 14 gauge wires in colour Green, Blue, Black, Red, and Yellow
7. Wire connectors.
8. Black electrical tape.
How To Make The "Flame Box"
1. Take all the colour wires and cut a piece of about 1 foot long of all
colours. You should have 5 pieces of wire in 5 different colours.
2. Place the connectors on all 5 wires.
3. Connect the Green wire to # 87A on the relay.
4. Connect the Yellow wire to #87
5. Connect the Black wire to #86
6. Connect the Red wire to #85
7. Connect the Blue wire to #30
If you are going to sell the item, go to maplins and get what is
called a Project Box so you can put it inside that box and fill the box
up with fiber glass resin so if they try to open it they will have to
break it and will not know how to make one. :-)
Your flame box is ready. Make sure all wires are in the right numbers
or it will not work right with these instructions.
Installing The Kit
1. Find a location for the relay or flame box under the dashboard.
2. Open your bonnet and look for your car's coil.
3. Once you find it you will have to look for the negative wire of your
cars coil. The easiest way to do this is to take the coil you got
from the store and connect 2 wires to it. Connect the coil wire to
the coil and the spark plug to it. Now take the wire that is connected to
the positive side of the coil and connect it to the battery. The ground
side you will use to find what wire in your car's coil will make it
spark.
4. Make a small slice cut on all the wires coming from your car to your
car's coil (don't cut them). Start you car's motor and take the
ground wire from the store coil and touch each one of the wires on your
car coil till you see that the spark plug is firing. Once you've found
it, cut engine off. Cut that wire.
5. Run a wire from your car's coil side of the car to where your relay
or flame box will be located and connect it to the Green wire on the
relay.
6. The wire that was coming from the car to the car's coil, run a wire
from there to the relay and connect it to the Blue wire on the relay.
7. Find an ignition wire in your car (power when you turn the key)
connect the ignition wire to the Red wire on the relay.
8. Mount your Switch, one side to ground on the car and the other to
Black wire on relay.
9. Mount your store coil in the trunk close to your exhaust, drill a
hole in your trunk, then drill a hole about 6 inches behind your exhaust
or muffler for the spark plug (be careful not to make it too big)
10. Run a wire from your car battery to the coil in the boot,
positive side of the coil.
11. Run the Yellow wire on the relay to the rear coil, negative side.
12. Start your car, in park. Take the engine to about 5,000 RPM and
press and hold the switch, the engine should start to stall and
smile, YOU'VE GOT FLAMES!!!!!!!.
No Flames?
1. Try changing the wires around for the Green and Blue.
2. Make sure your engine is running rich.
3. Make sure the spark plug is firing (take it out and test it outside
don't try to look in your exhaust)
If you get this working, post some pictures.
Flame Thrower Kit Info
Here is a list of items you will need:
1. You will need a relay that they use at the stereo shop for alarms or Halfrauds for lights etc.,
make sure the relay has the numbers 87, 87a, 86, 85, 30 on it, if it
doesn't then that is the wrong relay.
2. Go to Halfrauds or other parts store and get an old style coil that
has the positive and negative on it just like the one from the old TVR.
3. Coil wire for the coil about 3 feet long or longer if you can get it.
4. Spark plug.
5. A momentary switch.
6. Roll of 14 gauge wires in colour Green, Blue, Black, Red, and Yellow
7. Wire connectors.
8. Black electrical tape.
How To Make The "Flame Box"
1. Take all the colour wires and cut a piece of about 1 foot long of all
colours. You should have 5 pieces of wire in 5 different colours.
2. Place the connectors on all 5 wires.
3. Connect the Green wire to # 87A on the relay.
4. Connect the Yellow wire to #87
5. Connect the Black wire to #86
6. Connect the Red wire to #85
7. Connect the Blue wire to #30
If you are going to sell the item, go to maplins and get what is
called a Project Box so you can put it inside that box and fill the box
up with fiber glass resin so if they try to open it they will have to
break it and will not know how to make one. :-)
Your flame box is ready. Make sure all wires are in the right numbers
or it will not work right with these instructions.
Installing The Kit
1. Find a location for the relay or flame box under the dashboard.
2. Open your bonnet and look for your car's coil.
3. Once you find it you will have to look for the negative wire of your
cars coil. The easiest way to do this is to take the coil you got
from the store and connect 2 wires to it. Connect the coil wire to
the coil and the spark plug to it. Now take the wire that is connected to
the positive side of the coil and connect it to the battery. The ground
side you will use to find what wire in your car's coil will make it
spark.
4. Make a small slice cut on all the wires coming from your car to your
car's coil (don't cut them). Start you car's motor and take the
ground wire from the store coil and touch each one of the wires on your
car coil till you see that the spark plug is firing. Once you've found
it, cut engine off. Cut that wire.
5. Run a wire from your car's coil side of the car to where your relay
or flame box will be located and connect it to the Green wire on the
relay.
6. The wire that was coming from the car to the car's coil, run a wire
from there to the relay and connect it to the Blue wire on the relay.
7. Find an ignition wire in your car (power when you turn the key)
connect the ignition wire to the Red wire on the relay.
8. Mount your Switch, one side to ground on the car and the other to
Black wire on relay.
9. Mount your store coil in the trunk close to your exhaust, drill a
hole in your trunk, then drill a hole about 6 inches behind your exhaust
or muffler for the spark plug (be careful not to make it too big)
10. Run a wire from your car battery to the coil in the boot,
positive side of the coil.
11. Run the Yellow wire on the relay to the rear coil, negative side.
12. Start your car, in park. Take the engine to about 5,000 RPM and
press and hold the switch, the engine should start to stall and
smile, YOU'VE GOT FLAMES!!!!!!!.
No Flames?
1. Try changing the wires around for the Green and Blue.
2. Make sure your engine is running rich.
3. Make sure the spark plug is firing (take it out and test it outside
don't try to look in your exhaust)
If you get this working, post some pictures.
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