AJP 4.2 Rebuild Progress
AJP 4.2 Rebuild Progress
Author
Discussion

mikesr

Original Poster:

672 posts

260 months

Saturday 30th July 2011
quotequote all
Finally feels like I'm making progress. I got the bottom end built today.

Hopefully I'll get the heads, timing gear and front cover on next weekend.







FarmyardPants

4,372 posts

247 months

Saturday 30th July 2011
quotequote all
Wow!

JensenA

5,671 posts

259 months

Saturday 30th July 2011
quotequote all
Wow Wow !!

Toadusmodus

693 posts

310 months

Sunday 31st July 2011
quotequote all
Shiny wow!

mikesr

Original Poster:

672 posts

260 months

Saturday 20th August 2011
quotequote all
The engine is back in the engine bay woohoo

Its sitting high at the back because the bell housing is supported on a plank of wood across the chassis. Clutch hoses and gearbox first thing tomorrow and then work my way through the plumbing.




anonymous-user

83 months

Sunday 21st August 2011
quotequote all
That is utterly stunning...
Are the manifolds just new or coated?

Interesting arrangement of the ignition leads too....they look like the same Magnecors I have, did you require longer leads to run them in the configuration there.....or were they standard length?

If I ever...EVER...get my engine bay looking like that, Id either have been divorced or Id won the lottery...or both!! biggrin

Beautiful



Edited by djstevec on Sunday 21st August 00:12

mikesr

Original Poster:

672 posts

260 months

Sunday 21st August 2011
quotequote all
Thanks for the encouraging words. Its been a long hard slog and I need all the encouragement I can get. Hopefully its close to completion.

The manifolds are finished with Eastwoods paint on high temperature coating supplied by Frosts. The tin says stainless steel finish but its definitely battle ship grey. But it looks OK I think.

The leads and their position are standard for a 4.2. They are longer than 4.5 leads. Joo from Track car Solutions supplied them. I believe he had a company that manufactured them for him.

Byker28i

91,546 posts

246 months

Sunday 21st August 2011
quotequote all
mikesr said:
Thanks for the encouraging words. Its been a long hard slog and I need all the encouragement I can get. Hopefully its close to completion.

The manifolds are finished with Eastwoods paint on high temperature coating supplied by Frosts. The tin says stainless steel finish but its definitely battle ship grey. But it looks OK I think.

The leads and their position are standard for a 4.2. They are longer than 4.5 leads. Joo from Track car Solutions supplied them. I believe he had a company that manufactured them for him.
You might want to make sure the leads aren't left resting on the manifolds. wink

HarryW

16,028 posts

298 months

Sunday 21st August 2011
quotequote all
Byker28i said:
mikesr said:
Thanks for the encouraging words. Its been a long hard slog and I need all the encouragement I can get. Hopefully its close to completion.

The manifolds are finished with Eastwoods paint on high temperature coating supplied by Frosts. The tin says stainless steel finish but its definitely battle ship grey. But it looks OK I think.

The leads and their position are standard for a 4.2. They are longer than 4.5 leads. Joo from Track car Solutions supplied them. I believe he had a company that manufactured them for him.
You might want to make sure the leads aren't left resting on the manifolds. wink
+1
I was going to see if anyone else mentioned that.....

pirateTVR

172 posts

194 months

Sunday 21st August 2011
quotequote all
Congratulations on a first class level of detail and finish.

Did you paint the block or are we looking at a bare bead/water blasted surface ?

Incidentally,I`m guessing the purple handle on the offside front of the engine is the oil dip ? Strangely on my 97` it`s located on the same side although in the camshaft valley towards the rear of the motor .. wonder when it changed ?

billy no brakes

2,675 posts

294 months

Sunday 21st August 2011
quotequote all
pirateTVR said:
Congratulations on a first class level of detail and finish.

Did you paint the block or are we looking at a bare bead/water blasted surface ?

Incidentally,I`m guessing the purple handle on the offside front of the engine is the oil dip ? Strangely on my 97` it`s located on the same side although in the camshaft valley towards the rear of the motor .. wonder when it changed ?
I think it was 1998 engines, my Cerb 96 had the dip stick at the back but when the crank snapped and destroyed the engine the first thing I noticed when I got the Cerb back with a new engine when I tried to check the oil the dip stick was at the front, I think the reason was easier to get to

pirateTVR

172 posts

194 months

Sunday 21st August 2011
quotequote all
billy no brakes said:
I think it was 1998 engines, my Cerb 96 had the dip stick at the back but when the crank snapped and destroyed the engine the first thing I noticed when I got the Cerb back with a new engine when I tried to check the oil the dip stick was at the front, I think the reason was easier to get to
Take your point,plus it looks to be a much shorter and probably smoother in operation but there looks to be a whole load of work in the changeover.
By the look of things the new siting would run straight through my water pipe but I`m guessing the breather feed would be a lot less constricted with an alternative layout .. was there also a change in the fibreglass dress shroud to allow access ?
..just nice to know.

mikesr

Original Poster:

672 posts

260 months

Sunday 21st August 2011
quotequote all
HarryW said:
Byker28i said:
mikesr said:
Thanks for the encouraging words. Its been a long hard slog and I need all the encouragement I can get. Hopefully its close to completion.

The manifolds are finished with Eastwoods paint on high temperature coating supplied by Frosts. The tin says stainless steel finish but its definitely battle ship grey. But it looks OK I think.

The leads and their position are standard for a 4.2. They are longer than 4.5 leads. Joo from Track car Solutions supplied them. I believe he had a company that manufactured them for him.
You might want to make sure the leads aren't left resting on the manifolds. wink
+1
I was going to see if anyone else mentioned that.....
The leads sit above the coolant rails which keeps them away from the manifolds and I always tie-wrap them up out of the way as they loop around the back of the cam covers.

mikesr

Original Poster:

672 posts

260 months

Sunday 21st August 2011
quotequote all
pirateTVR said:
Congratulations on a first class level of detail and finish.

Did you paint the block or are we looking at a bare bead/water blasted surface ?
The block and heads are painted. There was a fair amount of corrosion of the alloy so I decided to clean it off and seal the surface with engine paint.

robsco

7,875 posts

205 months

Sunday 21st August 2011
quotequote all
billy no brakes said:
pirateTVR said:
Congratulations on a first class level of detail and finish.

Did you paint the block or are we looking at a bare bead/water blasted surface ?

Incidentally,I`m guessing the purple handle on the offside front of the engine is the oil dip ? Strangely on my 97` it`s located on the same side although in the camshaft valley towards the rear of the motor .. wonder when it changed ?
I think it was 1998 engines, my Cerb 96 had the dip stick at the back but when the crank snapped and destroyed the engine the first thing I noticed when I got the Cerb back with a new engine when I tried to check the oil the dip stick was at the front, I think the reason was easier to get to
It is a bloody stupid place to have the dipstick on the early engines, particularly having to hold hoses out of the way to be able to push the dipstick back in place. At the front of the block there is a far more logical location.

Byker28i

91,546 posts

246 months

Sunday 21st August 2011
quotequote all
Something not right there then? My dipstick is on the back of the engine and I don't have to hold any hoses out the way.

clive f

7,259 posts

262 months

Sunday 21st August 2011
quotequote all
thumbupvery nice work mate, you must feel very pleased with yourself when it all goes back together and back into the car.

robsco

7,875 posts

205 months

Sunday 21st August 2011
quotequote all
Byker28i said:
Something not right there then? My dipstick is on the back of the engine and I don't have to hold any hoses out the way.
Mmm, I never actually looked at what hoses they were, when I get the car back from Track V Road I'll have a look.

mikesr

Original Poster:

672 posts

260 months

Sunday 21st August 2011
quotequote all
clive f said:
thumbupvery nice work mate, you must feel very pleased with yourself when it all goes back together and back into the car.
It is definitely getting easier to put the hours in now that its so close to complete. A couple of months ago I was ready to give up and sell it as a project.

Hopefully next weekend will see and hear it burst into life.

billy no brakes

2,675 posts

294 months

Monday 22nd August 2011
quotequote all
pirateTVR said:
Take your point,plus it looks to be a much shorter and probably smoother in operation but there looks to be a whole load of work in the changeover.
By the look of things the new siting would run straight through my water pipe but I`m guessing the breather feed would be a lot less constricted with an alternative layout .. was there also a change in the fibreglass dress shroud to allow access ?
..just nice to know.
Don,t think it would be too hard to change you would need to get the pipe and dip stick off an engine, might be easier to look at another ceb with the later version on and see fow the pipe for the dipstick is routed. They all see m to be different on Mikesr engine which looks very nice the dipstick is lower than the oil breather pipe lug on mine it level and to the side of it and I have to push the breather pipe out the way to get the dipstick out and on others the metal lug is right angled I bet everybody will be looking now would be good to know the differences I,am going to change the metal lug on mine as it is too short and when I check the oil the breather pipe sometimes comes off the metal lug, don,t know what you mean about fibreglass put a picture on so we can see.

Mikesr sorry if we are nicking your thread but muat say the engine does look good are you putting silicon water hoses back or is that pipe in the picture for other use, I would recomend you use silicon they are so much better and look nice too I have just recently changed all mine and put stainless steel water pipes on too as the old ones was rusty and had a small leak and they will last much longer seems to make sense as you are able to get to the pipes esaier with the induction unit off, keep us posted on the rebuild and how it goes when you fire it up