Hot Water Cylinder

[homerjay]

Hi all

woke up the other morning to a dripping ceiling and an airing cupboard full of water.

phoned insurance, who sent out a guy to drain the system. ive got a seeping hot water cyclinder.

tank is not covered under insurance, but obviously the damage is.

anyway, it appears to be the internal fixing on the top right hand side, so tightening the nut makes no difference.

corrosion apparenlty.

can this be repaired via some kind of cement or silcon, or do i need a new cylinder?

if i need a new cylinder, is anything stopping me replacing myself, rather than paying a plumber 200-300 quid to fit it?

my basic understanding is to drain the rads first, then fit the new Indirect Hot Water Cylinder, then refill and vent the system.

cheers

[Simpo Two]

Splash out on a new cylinder. (literally )

I'd pay a man but it's up to you.

[homerjay]

why would you pay a man?

because you would want to risk it?
because you dont think youd get it right?
because you cant be arsed?
because your flush with cash?

id get a bloke in, but in the last two weeks, we had the washer go pop, the microwave go pop, a holiday to pay for. and theres £250 excess on the water damage.

just getting a bit silly, so just trying to save a bit by doing it myself.

[dickymint]

Don't forget to "weigh in" the old one. Worth a few quid now.

[homerjay]

dickymint said:

Don't forget to "weigh in" the old one. Worth a few quid now.

already noted

[Simpo Two]

I would pay a man because (1) I consider it beyone my current plumbing ability (2) whilst I am happy to attempt new things I would not wish to take chances with such an important part of my house with (3) disastrous consequences if it goes wrong.

I recommended a new cylinder becaise if it's old and corroding, it might fail again a week after you've fixed the first leak.



I wasn't aware that having £300 qualified one as 'flush with cash' though. Thanks

[homerjay]

Simpo Two said:

I would pay a man because (1) I consider it beyone my current plumbing ability (2) whilst I am happy to attempt new things I would not wish to take chances with such an important part of my house with (3) disastrous consequences if it goes wrong.

I recommended a new cylinder becaise if it's old and corroding, it might fail again a week after you've fixed the first leak.

the cylinder is 8 years old.

i didnt think that was old, but the plumber who came said they barely last 10 years.

[dickymint]

Got a photo of the leak? Could be a simple job to solder or braze.

[homerjay]

no, i'll try to get one tonight.

you cant see the leak (well the tanks empty now)



item 4 on that pic.

the fixing to the tank is seeping. not the connection, to the pipe which could be fixed with a bit of ptfe tape. its the actaul fitting itself, however that is fixed to the tank.

[dirkgently]

There may be a backnut on that tapping, you could wind it off and replace the fiber washer,you have nothing to lose apart from another drain down if it does not work.You will have to drain down the heating before you try it though.

[homerjay]

dirkgently said:

There may be a backnut on that tapping, you could wind it off and replace the fiber washer,you have nothing to lose apart from another drain down if it does not work.You will have to drain down the heating before you try it though.

good shout, i'll whip it off before ordering a new un.

the tapping, does have a nut on the outside, so there is every chance it could get it of and replace the washer.

thanks

[Tyre Tread]

dickymint said:

Don't forget to "weigh in" the old one. Worth a few quid now.

What's the going rate?

[homerjay]

ive been told anything from £20 - £50

[Ferg]

As Dirk says, the coil will have a backnut, but the scale in the thread will make it difficult to undo especially as there really isn't anything to hold on the coil. They do have a fibre washer, but it's normally on the INSIDE between the flange on the coil and the inside surface of the cylinder. If you fancy a go I'd give the thread a good going over with a descaler or maybe vinegar, then gently try to tighten it without twisting the coil tapping. If you do it may leak heating water too.....

[Simpo Two]

homerjay said:

the cylinder is 8 years old.

i didnt think that was old, but the plumber who came said they barely last 10 years.

Indeed, my first one started leaking from the bottom seam after 10. Luckily I spotted it before it got serious. I have a feeling you can buy different grades of cylinder; no doubt developers just put cheap ones in.

[homerjay]

ok, i currenlty have one of these: (£252)

http://www.tdlonline.co.uk/Products/Heating/Hot+Wa...

but i can find cheaper such as this: (£183)

http://www.allplumbingsupplies.co.uk/Cylinders/Ind...

and if im gonna replace myself, i need the fittings to be in the place.

chances of this?

[Ferg]

homerjay said:

...and if im gonna replace myself, i need the fittings to be in the place.

chances of this?

Slim. Part 'L' compliance means coils are almost always different. I tend to hope to get the lower tapping lined up and adapt the top pipework to suit.


PS Hard water scale is the prime killer of copper cylinders as Simpo no doubt can confirm. There are stainless steel cylinders about now....

[homerjay]

Ferg said:

Slim. Part 'L' compliance means coils are almost always different. I tend to hope to get the lower tapping lined up and adapt the top pipework to suit.

sorry, excuse my ignorance, they are both part L, does that not make them the same fittings?

[Simpo Two]

Ferg said:

PS Hard water scale is the prime killer of copper cylinders as Simpo no doubt can confirm. There are stainless steel cylinders about now....

I put it down to simple corrosion but but there was a lot of turquoise clag all over the lawn when the last one came out. I never use the immersion heater though, in fact the builders never even wired it up!

[homerjay]

ive emailed the site, to see if the cheaper cyclinder would be a straight swap for my tdl

heres their response.

bloke said:

Further to your email of today, we feel it should be a straight swap.
Dimensions as follows for a Indirect 1050mm x 450mm Cylinder.
From bottom of cylinder to centre of first tapping is 100mm.
From bottom of cylinder to centre of second tapping is 470mm
Coil centres 370mm.
I hope this has been of some help, but if you require any more info please feel free to contact me.