Pictures of chassis rebuild
Discussion
Nice work .. . . one day I'll do mine.
Also interested to understand the induction arrangement you have, not for me, just interested and how you propose to manage the central induction inlet piping, much like the LS installs?
Also you have treated the outriggers differently, have you chosen one of the underbody rubberised chip gaurds spray on jobs or is it just black rather than grey?
Also interested to understand the induction arrangement you have, not for me, just interested and how you propose to manage the central induction inlet piping, much like the LS installs?
Also you have treated the outriggers differently, have you chosen one of the underbody rubberised chip gaurds spray on jobs or is it just black rather than grey?
SILICONEKID340HP said:
Whats that thing stuck on top of the engine ?are you going to weld extra supports for the seats which is a very good idea..
That "thing" is my new inlet manifold, it's not finished yet, still got to rig up the throttle cable and fit the servo and MAP tappings but the basic form is complete.I've fabricated bolt on brackets that will support both seats which i'll fit once the body is back on.
Else said:
Its a V8 Developments 5.2 with special heads developed by Rob and a man called Vizzard, anybody heard of him? 
The standard manifold can't easily be adapted to fit so i am fabricating a new one to Rob's basic design.
Do you mean David Vizard?? The standard manifold can't easily be adapted to fit so i am fabricating a new one to Rob's basic design.Have a book from 70's on head design/exhaust scavenging.
Did a Google: http://www.davidvizardseminars.com/AboutDV.html
Top man!!
HTH
Trev
Johno said:
Nice work .. . . one day I'll do mine.
Also interested to understand the induction arrangement you have, not for me, just interested and how you propose to manage the central induction inlet piping, much like the LS installs?
Also you have treated the outriggers differently, have you chosen one of the underbody rubberised chip gaurds spray on jobs or is it just black rather than grey?
I plan to bring two 80mm pipes from the butterflies forward to the area above and infront of the radiator to pick up the colder and hopefully slightly higher pressure air that exists in that area. Much like a Cerby does, might even use a cerby filter and cover or just fab my own.Also interested to understand the induction arrangement you have, not for me, just interested and how you propose to manage the central induction inlet piping, much like the LS installs?
Also you have treated the outriggers differently, have you chosen one of the underbody rubberised chip gaurds spray on jobs or is it just black rather than grey?
I sparyed the outriggers with stone chip but i'm not sure it will help much as it doesn't seem to adhere to the powder coating. It chips off very easily if you chatch it with a spanner or something. The powder coating should last a lot longer than the original as i had the whole chassis sandblasted then sprayed with an etch coating then a powder coat primer followed by a high spec top powder coating. I was told it is some kind of marine spec but i don't know the details.
K4TRV said:
Do you mean David Vizard??
Have a book from 70's on head design/exhaust scavenging.
Did a Google: http://www.davidvizardseminars.com/AboutDV.html
Top man!!
HTH
Trev
Yep that's the bloke, was big on mini's at the time if i remember correctly.Have a book from 70's on head design/exhaust scavenging.
Did a Google: http://www.davidvizardseminars.com/AboutDV.html
Top man!!
HTH
Trev
Andy
Else said:
That "thing" is my new inlet manifold, it's not finished yet, still got to rig up the throttle cable and fit the servo and MAP tappings but the basic form is complete.
I've fabricated bolt on brackets that will support both seats which i'll fit once the body is back on.
Can you post the support seat brackets,its about time they were produced as a safety upgrade..I've fabricated bolt on brackets that will support both seats which i'll fit once the body is back on.
Else said:
I sparyed the outriggers with stone chip but i'm not sure it will help much as it doesn't seem to adhere to the powder coating. It chips off very easily if you chatch it with a spanner or something. The powder coating should last a lot longer than the original as i had the whole chassis sandblasted then sprayed with an etch coating then a powder coat primer followed by a high spec top powder coating. I was told it is some kind of marine spec but i don't know the details.
Thats a shame as I was hoping these would at least eleviate the worst damage over a period of time and certainly assist witht he protection levels. Which version did you use?
Chimpafrolic said:
I recently saw a trawler deck painted in Epidek M153.
It's a two pack epoxy high impact deck paint designed for extreme marine environments.
Bullet proof!
Recommended application method - trowel ! It's a two pack epoxy high impact deck paint designed for extreme marine environments.
Bullet proof!
"Thoroughly mix contents of epoxy resin and curing agent containers of Component ‘A’ to a homogeneous consistency.
The fine silica grit of Component ‘A’ must then be added and mixed using a suitable power stirrer until homogeneous.
The mixed screed is applied and spread, using a trowel or float, after pouring onto the substrate, to an even wet film thickness of 3mm,
using a wet film gauge to monitor the application. The screed must be applied in one application.
Within 10-20 minutes (depending on temperature) of applying the base screed Component ‘A’ it must be dressed using the contents of
Component ‘B’. The method is to scatter the dressing aggregate onto the screed until it is fully saturated to excess and no screed
appears visible.
After 24 hours curing at a minimum temperature of 10°C, excess dressing aggregate is removed normally by sweeping using a stiff
bristled yard brush. Provided it is dry and free from other contamination excess aggregate may be re-used."
http://www.leighspaints.co.uk/en/DataSheets/TM153....
Perhaps a little too agricultural .. . Also potentially difficult to apply to a chassis, but that's the kinda of thing. I was thinking of the cans of chips gaurd undersealer etc you can get that you just add to an airline and you get a rubberised kind of coating as thats what I thought this was.
Perhaps its the effect of being applied to powder coat and therefore finding it difficult to adhere to the surface ?
Edited by Johno on Monday 8th August 11:37
Else said:
I plan to bring two 80mm pipes from the butterflies forward to the area above and infront of the radiator to pick up the colder and hopefully slightly higher pressure air that exists in that area. Much like a Cerby does, might even use a cerby filter and cover or just fab my own.
I sparyed the outriggers with stone chip but i'm not sure it will help much as it doesn't seem to adhere to the powder coating. It chips off very easily if you chatch it with a spanner or something. The powder coating should last a lot longer than the original as i had the whole chassis sandblasted then sprayed with an etch coating then a powder coat primer followed by a high spec top powder coating. I was told it is some kind of marine spec but i don't know the details.
i am considering this winter to powdercoat my chassis...where did you use, ive had good and bad experience with powdercoatI sparyed the outriggers with stone chip but i'm not sure it will help much as it doesn't seem to adhere to the powder coating. It chips off very easily if you chatch it with a spanner or something. The powder coating should last a lot longer than the original as i had the whole chassis sandblasted then sprayed with an etch coating then a powder coat primer followed by a high spec top powder coating. I was told it is some kind of marine spec but i don't know the details.
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