Clutch Problem
Discussion
Driving to work tonight the clutch pedal suddenly lost 'tension'. the pedal will depress and the cluch works, but the bite point is very high and it slips a lot. It's just about drivable.
I had a quick check under the car, and the release fork looks and feels ok so I don't think thats broken through (yet!).
Anyone got any ideas what's gone? My thoughts were master cylinder seals or maybe the cluch plate itself. (Master cylinder fuid looks very dirty). If the release fork had bowed where the pivot thing pushes it, would I get these symtoms?
If anyone with a greater knowledge can help, it would be appreciated!
Cheers
Ps its a 400HC Pre-serp, but with a T5 box (TVR mixed bag special).
I had a quick check under the car, and the release fork looks and feels ok so I don't think thats broken through (yet!).
Anyone got any ideas what's gone? My thoughts were master cylinder seals or maybe the cluch plate itself. (Master cylinder fuid looks very dirty). If the release fork had bowed where the pivot thing pushes it, would I get these symtoms?
If anyone with a greater knowledge can help, it would be appreciated!
Cheers
Ps its a 400HC Pre-serp, but with a T5 box (TVR mixed bag special).
If the pivot had pushed through the arm, your peal would have nothing to it until about halfway down, but the bite point end up lower (in my head anyway!) You'd have issues getting the clutch to disengage, where as it sounds like you're having more issues trying to get it to bite enough to grip.
It sounds like a worn out clutch to me. Doesn't explain the loss of tension in the pedal, or why it suddenly went. But if the plate gets too thin the sprung fingers on the cover get to a point where they can't splay out anymore, because the release bearing won't let them. This in turn has a reverse effect (as the energy has to go somewhere) and unless the pushrod were to bend (highly unlikely) then it will try to disengage the clutch. It won't get very far, but it's usually enough to let the clutch start to slip.
It's easy to check....get underneath, undo the two bolts holding the slave cylinder on and check to see if you have any pre-load. So with the bolts removed, you should be able to push the cylinder into it's location by hand. If it's nearly home but doesn't want to sit flush against the bell housing, it suggests the clutch itself has run out of adjustment.
The extra stress this puts on the release arm can often cause the pivot ball joint to bust through the arm itself, because it's being pushed from both ends instead of acting as a pivot.
It sounds like a worn out clutch to me. Doesn't explain the loss of tension in the pedal, or why it suddenly went. But if the plate gets too thin the sprung fingers on the cover get to a point where they can't splay out anymore, because the release bearing won't let them. This in turn has a reverse effect (as the energy has to go somewhere) and unless the pushrod were to bend (highly unlikely) then it will try to disengage the clutch. It won't get very far, but it's usually enough to let the clutch start to slip.
It's easy to check....get underneath, undo the two bolts holding the slave cylinder on and check to see if you have any pre-load. So with the bolts removed, you should be able to push the cylinder into it's location by hand. If it's nearly home but doesn't want to sit flush against the bell housing, it suggests the clutch itself has run out of adjustment.
The extra stress this puts on the release arm can often cause the pivot ball joint to bust through the arm itself, because it's being pushed from both ends instead of acting as a pivot.
Thanks for your help.
I think you're right about the release fork, from what I've read when it goes your pedal goes to the floor or jams completely.
I've ordered another master cylinder, and will fit that when it turns up.
Before I fit it I'll check the slave as you suggested.
It wouldn't be a huge suprise if the plates had gone, I could just do without the expense of a new clutch at the moment, so I'm really hoping its the master cylinder!
Thanks
I think you're right about the release fork, from what I've read when it goes your pedal goes to the floor or jams completely.
I've ordered another master cylinder, and will fit that when it turns up.
Before I fit it I'll check the slave as you suggested.
It wouldn't be a huge suprise if the plates had gone, I could just do without the expense of a new clutch at the moment, so I'm really hoping its the master cylinder!
Thanks
Gassing Station | Chimaera | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff