Preventing outrigger rot
Discussion
Hi all,
Finally bought a facelift 97 Chim 450 - very excited! Outriggers seem solid, but have the usual bit of surface rust and the coating is falling off in places. What do people use as a body on rust prevention routine? I imagine giving them a wash/brush to remove mud/stones then some sort of rust converter spray?
Everything else looks in good nick...looking forward to a trip to the Lake District now!
Finally bought a facelift 97 Chim 450 - very excited! Outriggers seem solid, but have the usual bit of surface rust and the coating is falling off in places. What do people use as a body on rust prevention routine? I imagine giving them a wash/brush to remove mud/stones then some sort of rust converter spray?
Everything else looks in good nick...looking forward to a trip to the Lake District now!
Have a look at Frost site at Dynitrol range inc marine rust remover that comes in 5lts I think with applicator, that will get in all the akward places.
There are all sorts of systems you can buy just depends how deep your pockets are, use the rust inhibitor in spray can form.
I am in the process of cleaning/prep/paint on outriggers, just make sure all is clean free of as much surface rust, then down to hard work really.
There are many explainations on how to do in forum just key in and search, everbody has their own particular brands and methods its whatever suits you. Good Luck.
KENHIND
There are all sorts of systems you can buy just depends how deep your pockets are, use the rust inhibitor in spray can form.
I am in the process of cleaning/prep/paint on outriggers, just make sure all is clean free of as much surface rust, then down to hard work really.
There are many explainations on how to do in forum just key in and search, everbody has their own particular brands and methods its whatever suits you. Good Luck.
KENHIND
alephnull said:
Hi all,
Finally bought a facelift 97 Chim 450 - very excited! Outriggers seem solid, but have the usual bit of surface rust and the coating is falling off in places. What do people use as a body on rust prevention routine? I imagine giving them a wash/brush to remove mud/stones then some sort of rust converter spray?
Everything else looks in good nick...looking forward to a trip to the Lake District now!
Welcome to the world of Chimaera ownership!Finally bought a facelift 97 Chim 450 - very excited! Outriggers seem solid, but have the usual bit of surface rust and the coating is falling off in places. What do people use as a body on rust prevention routine? I imagine giving them a wash/brush to remove mud/stones then some sort of rust converter spray?
Everything else looks in good nick...looking forward to a trip to the Lake District now!
When you say the outriggers seem solid, have you had a really good feel on the top half of them: that's where the trouble really lies, I'm afraid.
Mine from below:
Mine from above:
Assuming all is ok 'up there' I'd recommend Dynax S-50 applied inside the outriggers and chassis, it's got remarkable 'creep' properties:
As for the outside of the outriggers I'll defer to others: I did a body-off blast/zinc/2-pack/Hammerite/Waxoyl on mine - OTT I know, but once you've got the body off you may as well get stuck right in!!!
R
To be honest, you can't do a thorough job of sealing the chassis with the body on. You don't have the access. I'd just give what you can see a quick rub down and going over with Hammerite until such time you can raise the body and have a proper look, or just say sod it and chop them off with the body in situ and repalce (though I'm still yet to be convinced by this method).
sparkythecat said:
How on earth can you have a really good 'feel' on the top half?
I used a right-angled scribe, screwdrivers and hooks to get a 'feel' for how the surface was, when the scribe went through the top of the outriggers with little pressure I realised I had a problem...........
R
ralphy12345 said:
I used a right-angled scribe, screwdrivers and hooks to get a 'feel' for how the surface was, when the scribe went through the top of the outriggers with little pressure I realised I had a problem...........
R
I've always been a bit sceptical of those adverts that say 'good chassis', but knowing there is a way to check would widen the choice. Seeing the picture posted above, I know it's easy to say now, but I would have expected more rot on the top seeing how scaby the underneath looked. I've learnt it's easy to be optimistic about corrosion, then when you start digging...
I could be tempted to cut them off from underneath and replace the outriggers as some specialists claim to be able to do without a body lift, but I always wondered how they weld the top part? I think that unless I find a car that's had them recently done, you have to take the view that they'll likely need doing on a 12-15 year old car, unless they really have been cleaned and treated regularly (and not just when someone notices that they're looking a bit crabby
). In my case I'd prefer to buy one that's sorted rather than have to start doing (more) welding once I get a TVR.At the front and back wheel arch in the lower outer corner just above the outer visible outrigger tube there is a hole no bigger than your index finger. This is certainly present on my Griff and I believe also on the Chimps. An extension waxoil plastic tube with a crude spray head with the same end diameter, 4.5mm, can be fed with some very patient wiggeling in at the back hole to emerge at the front hole. With plenty of old "News of the World" newspapers on the floor, this spray tube can then be slowly drawn back while pumping the waxoil.
When the excess is dribbeling liberaly onto the newspaper for the whole length, you are doing a good job.
I also dilute my waxoil with paint spirit brush cleaner to give it better opportunity to creep into rusty recesses under the blistering (crap) powder coating. This technique can be used on new replacement outriggers to keep them thoroughly tip top waxoiled.
Before waxoiling some of the blistering rusty powder coating can be removed from the outer tubes top surfaces by threading a strong 2inch wide strip of P100 emery/silicon carbide etc. into the space between the outrigger tube and the body sill, over the top of the outrigger and down. By gently pulling with both hands up and down, bits of loose powder coating can be dislodged. This is easier if car is jacked up. Its still a very messy job, but it can be done!
I have also blanked off the front and back of the outrigger holes and corner angle plates with shaped aluminium sheet to prevent dirt and grit getting thrown in by the wheels. Then sealing the alu blanking sheets with silicon paste. Time will tell if we have been successful in giving a longer life to our outriggers and delay spending £1,600 on new ones. I may do a 2-5inch lift this winter to check on things, wifee willing! Enough said.
When the excess is dribbeling liberaly onto the newspaper for the whole length, you are doing a good job.
I also dilute my waxoil with paint spirit brush cleaner to give it better opportunity to creep into rusty recesses under the blistering (crap) powder coating. This technique can be used on new replacement outriggers to keep them thoroughly tip top waxoiled.
Before waxoiling some of the blistering rusty powder coating can be removed from the outer tubes top surfaces by threading a strong 2inch wide strip of P100 emery/silicon carbide etc. into the space between the outrigger tube and the body sill, over the top of the outrigger and down. By gently pulling with both hands up and down, bits of loose powder coating can be dislodged. This is easier if car is jacked up. Its still a very messy job, but it can be done!
I have also blanked off the front and back of the outrigger holes and corner angle plates with shaped aluminium sheet to prevent dirt and grit getting thrown in by the wheels. Then sealing the alu blanking sheets with silicon paste. Time will tell if we have been successful in giving a longer life to our outriggers and delay spending £1,600 on new ones. I may do a 2-5inch lift this winter to check on things, wifee willing! Enough said.
EGB said:
I have also blanked off the front and back of the outrigger holes and corner angle plates with shaped aluminium sheet to prevent dirt and grit getting thrown in by the wheels. Then sealing the alu blanking sheets with silicon paste.
You might want to google 'galvanic corrosion'. Aluminium may not be the best choice of material there...Believe it or not i think most of the corrosion occurs in the winter when stored in the garage .Ive often feel the outriggers to be soaking wet from condensation.
Anyone thought of useing a cacoon they have come right down in price ..Cheap chinese ! there are some forsale on the classifieds..
Anyone thought of useing a cacoon they have come right down in price ..Cheap chinese ! there are some forsale on the classifieds..
alephnull said:
You might want to google 'galvanic corrosion'. Aluminium may not be the best choice of material there...
Good point made. However, since the shaped alu blanking plates are not in direct metalic contact with the painted waxoiled outrigger ends, only resting on, and seal fixed with silicon onto the wheel arch fibre glass, I think there is no risk of galvanic action. Also I don't think the aluminium Rover V8 is causing rot to TVRs.PS: The alu blanking plates are made out of oven baking trays from TESCO. £2.50 for 5 (1sq ft each) They are easely cut with a scissors and then hand bent and shaped to fit. A labour of love given the time !!
ralphy12345 said:
Welcome to the world of Chimaera ownership!
When you say the outriggers seem solid, have you had a really good feel on the top half of them: that's where the trouble really lies, I'm afraid.
Mine from below:
Mine from above:
Assuming all is ok 'up there' I'd recommend Dynax S-50 applied inside the outriggers and chassis, it's got remarkable 'creep' properties:
As for the outside of the outriggers I'll defer to others: I did a body-off blast/zinc/2-pack/Hammerite/Waxoyl on mine - OTT I know, but once you've got the body off you may as well get stuck right in!!!
R
my old 99 chimaera looked great from underneith but where like swiss cheese on the top, nice £3k bill to put right. from what I found out the earlier cars had much better covering than the later. When you say the outriggers seem solid, have you had a really good feel on the top half of them: that's where the trouble really lies, I'm afraid.
Mine from below:
Mine from above:
Assuming all is ok 'up there' I'd recommend Dynax S-50 applied inside the outriggers and chassis, it's got remarkable 'creep' properties:
As for the outside of the outriggers I'll defer to others: I did a body-off blast/zinc/2-pack/Hammerite/Waxoyl on mine - OTT I know, but once you've got the body off you may as well get stuck right in!!!
R
the garage said my old 93 chassis(11 years old) was much better thn the 99 at (4 years old) the white paint/powder coat/tippex what ever just fell off
Edited by Markh on Monday 15th August 10:14
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