It may be clutch time... which one to get?

[TVR Beaver]

I've thought my clutch was a bit suss for a while now.... I don't get slip but think it's become hard over the years or something (original so 12 years old)... It don't take a lot of pressure on the pedal before you do get slip... and it's not the best at a consistent bite point and also think it's become quite heavy to press..... So unless it needs a good bleeding or something, I think it may be time to pull it out.

So... who sells a good clutch these days?... don't want a on / off switch type thing... or one that needs 1000 miles to bed in etc... just a nice usable every day clutch that will allow me to run about without building my left leg into something Arny would be proud of....;)

Any thoughts, recommendations appreciated...

[steve-V8s]

Could be the pivot pin is making (or has made) a hole in the clutch arm. If you have the box with an inspection hole in the bell housing you may be able to see if that is the case. I have one made by Helix which was as specified by V8d. I believe Tweeks sell them as well. It is however a bit heavier on the leg than the standard part.

[TVR Beaver]

Thanks Steve,.. .will have a look at the arm... I have an inspection hole... It's done 50K so may be due but they should last longer (although I'm not sure how the previous owners used the car??) replacing the arm would be much cheaper / easier!!... Is this what happens if the arm goes?
Would you have any part numbers at all for the Tweeks one? I'll have a look on their site see if it lists TVR anyway.. cheers... John

[steve-V8s]

Don’t have the Tweeks part number as I got it from V8d they supplied a release bearing as well.

[TVR Beaver]

Okay.. thanks Steve....

Techniclutch suggest a Organic AP clutch... not a bad price at £255 including vat and post....

Anyone got one?.....

[V8Bart]

+1 for the Helix one from V8D, bit heavier but been spot on over last 4-5k

[JonathanT]

TVR Beaver said:

Techniclutch suggest a Organic AP clutch...

The standard response on here seems to be "google techniclutch" and see for yourself....
FWIW I also have a V8D helix for the last ~5k and it's been fine.

[TVR Beaver]

Have also been advised to re-grind the flywheel face before fitting the new clutch to re-surface it... Did any of you do this.. or just bung the Helix (or what ever) in??

TBF I think the AP / Borg Beck was the clutch originaly used by TVR so guess thats what I have in there now?

[v8 racing]

Hi John
Our helix ones are slightly more heavier than the standard ap/tvr one, but they will stand more power, to be honest if your cluth is getting heavier it will be the pivot pin drying out, get a bit of grease up there and it should become nice again.

[dnb]

Google techniclutch and then buy a Helix from V8 Developments. It's the only way to be sure.
My Helix is slightly lighter than the old clutch, and it stands up to the abuse I give it when I actually drive the car.

[TVR Beaver]

Cheers Guy's... Think I was 90% sure it would be a Helix anyway... so think the above posts confirm that.....

But Rob, will have a go with the arm first... see if I can work it out and inspect it... or failing that just get some grease on the pivot points.... I think the bite point may be up a bit also so that's why I was thinking friction plate... see what I find.. It may be bending if it's going thru

Whats this about re-surfacing?.... I agree if it's been slipping for a while and has burnt the surface.. or it's juddering due to high spots... but if the existing is fine, I'd probably just wet/dry the surface to enable the new one to bed / key in a bit and remove any glaze.. and re-fit... job done? isn't this what happens these days ... Must say the last one I did was about 10 years ago on a V8 Landy so I may be out of date