Discussion
If the engine is sludged up bad it will likely dislodge it all at once and possably block tthe oil pickup, i only use it as a last resort personly.
I prefer to run it for a day with some cheap oil then drain and fill with decent stuff, it disolves the crud slower, on the odd occasion i have run on diesel oil (more detergants than petrol oils) then filled with the correct stuff, TBH it really depends on the engine and the state it's in to start with.
I prefer to run it for a day with some cheap oil then drain and fill with decent stuff, it disolves the crud slower, on the odd occasion i have run on diesel oil (more detergants than petrol oils) then filled with the correct stuff, TBH it really depends on the engine and the state it's in to start with.
Yes, but use the one with the right chemistry.
A proper treatment will dissolve any build up (and it's not always about 'sludge'!) and hold it in suspension, so it drains out with the oil.
Some people will throw on a new oil filter before, then another when refilling - for the sake of a few £ more.
Detergents and other chemistry in true synthetic oils should pretty much rule out sludge formation, but varnish isn't sludge.
Forté has a tie-up with Vauxhall, with a flush & in-tank fuel treatment being rudimentary parts of routine servicing each time the vehicle comes in.
For me, it's BG Products which do the business - 44K (244 for diesel) and 109.
When the next oil change is done (new car or the Accord), I'll probably give the MOA a try too.
A proper treatment will dissolve any build up (and it's not always about 'sludge'!) and hold it in suspension, so it drains out with the oil.
Some people will throw on a new oil filter before, then another when refilling - for the sake of a few £ more.
Detergents and other chemistry in true synthetic oils should pretty much rule out sludge formation, but varnish isn't sludge.
Forté has a tie-up with Vauxhall, with a flush & in-tank fuel treatment being rudimentary parts of routine servicing each time the vehicle comes in.
For me, it's BG Products which do the business - 44K (244 for diesel) and 109.
When the next oil change is done (new car or the Accord), I'll probably give the MOA a try too.
NHK244V said:
If the engine is sludged up bad it will likely dislodge it all at once and possably block tthe oil pickup, i only use it as a last resort personly.
I prefer to run it for a day with some cheap oil then drain and fill with decent stuff, it disolves the crud slower, on the odd occasion i have run on diesel oil (more detergants than petrol oils) then filled with the correct stuff, TBH it really depends on the engine and the state it's in to start with.
Surely, if it's not sludged up bad, and only being used to clean the film off, then that is better than if it is properly sludged up which then could block the oil pickup?I prefer to run it for a day with some cheap oil then drain and fill with decent stuff, it disolves the crud slower, on the odd occasion i have run on diesel oil (more detergants than petrol oils) then filled with the correct stuff, TBH it really depends on the engine and the state it's in to start with.
PJ S said:
Yes, but use the one with the right chemistry.
A proper treatment will dissolve any build up (and it's not always about 'sludge'!) and hold it in suspension, so it drains out with the oil.
Some people will throw on a new oil filter before, then another when refilling - for the sake of a few £ more.
Detergents and other chemistry in true synthetic oils should pretty much rule out sludge formation, but varnish isn't sludge.
Forté has a tie-up with Vauxhall, with a flush & in-tank fuel treatment being rudimentary parts of routine servicing each time the vehicle comes in.
For me, it's BG Products which do the business - 44K (244 for diesel) and 109.
When the next oil change is done (new car or the Accord), I'll probably give the MOA a try too.
I'm afraid, I only understood every third word!!A proper treatment will dissolve any build up (and it's not always about 'sludge'!) and hold it in suspension, so it drains out with the oil.
Some people will throw on a new oil filter before, then another when refilling - for the sake of a few £ more.
Detergents and other chemistry in true synthetic oils should pretty much rule out sludge formation, but varnish isn't sludge.
Forté has a tie-up with Vauxhall, with a flush & in-tank fuel treatment being rudimentary parts of routine servicing each time the vehicle comes in.
For me, it's BG Products which do the business - 44K (244 for diesel) and 109.
When the next oil change is done (new car or the Accord), I'll probably give the MOA a try too.
Any chance you would mind expanding on that?
Which words are you struggling with?
I'd have thought putting product names, as well as manufacturer name, would've compelled you to do a bit of Googling for further info and evidence of effectiveness.
If you're still stuck on something, le me know and I'll see if I can help you understand it.
I'd have thought putting product names, as well as manufacturer name, would've compelled you to do a bit of Googling for further info and evidence of effectiveness.
If you're still stuck on something, le me know and I'll see if I can help you understand it.
Ozzie Osmond said:
I'm a simple guy.
If the manufacturer says use 0w-40 I use 0w-40
If the manufacturer says use 50w-30 I use 0w-40
If the manufacturer says "use forte" I guess that's fine by me - otherwise I wouldn't.
And therein lies part of the problem with some cars having problems....If the manufacturer says use 0w-40 I use 0w-40
If the manufacturer says use 50w-30 I use 0w-40
If the manufacturer says "use forte" I guess that's fine by me - otherwise I wouldn't.
Speaking to a local BMW dealership's parts guy, and we got onto talking about the diesel issues.
Long story short, the "turbo filter" (crankcase breather in reality) was getting build up and not being replaced/checked at servicing.
They found it needed less replacing if the owner stuck with the 0w oil (which happens to be API SM standards compliant), but with some thinking the oil was too "thin", they were switching to 5w.
That'd be all well and good if the oil was still SM, but the chances are it was SJ or SL, which because of not being low SAPS (more Googling for those who don't know what SAPS is), was generating more ash, and therefore blocking/restricting the CCB filter.
Bottom line, checking/replacing more often, and sticking with the thinner oil, has seen 2/3rds of turbo issues cease. Swirl flaps remains, even in revised versions, but the CCB was a culprit too, and more so if a low SAPS oil wasn't being used.
So there's more to oil than whether it's genuine synthetic or hydrocracked mineral 'synth', and the viscosity.
And I firmly believe proper flushes that are effective (rather than benign lip-service ones) have their place - esp on cars with questionable service history.
Any car I'd buy, where the history was less than fully documented, would get 109 and new oil done, and 44K as the first action.
Throttle body butterfly would be inspected too with a view to needing cleaned of any deposits, and similarly AFM & EGR, so you know the baseline you're starting with.
Even if nothing changed/felt different, that £50 or so spent (over the cost of oil & filter) is cheap peace of mind/verification all's well.
Gassing Station | General Gassing | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff