Where is/are the fan relay(s)
Discussion
Anyone have a clue where the fan relays are?
Otter switch has gone, so I am looking at fitting a new two stage switch using one of these kits:
http://www.x-eng.co.uk/X-Fan.asp?MID=4
Obviously the original otter just has one switch so I need to do some rewiring.
Otter switch has gone, so I am looking at fitting a new two stage switch using one of these kits:
http://www.x-eng.co.uk/X-Fan.asp?MID=4
Obviously the original otter just has one switch so I need to do some rewiring.
It's more than possible you only have the single relay Phil. Easy enough to rewire the fusebox to link on of the fan feeds to an unused relay position in the fusebox.
Unbolt the fusebox from the footwell and it will come out further than the passenger seat, the 'spare' loom really is that long - just stuffed up the inner wing / engine bay cavity. You don't need to clamber upside down deep in the footwell for the sake of a couple of nuts & bolts
Unbolt the fusebox from the footwell and it will come out further than the passenger seat, the 'spare' loom really is that long - just stuffed up the inner wing / engine bay cavity. You don't need to clamber upside down deep in the footwell for the sake of a couple of nuts & bolts

Actually there is just one bolt holding in my fuse board .. and two almost impossible to access cable ties at the top. After about an hour of sweating, contorting, and almost losing digits I finally managed to cut them and get the board free. Free to move forward about two inches until it was baulked by the battery and/or the heater pipes.
No amount of wriggling would get it past these obstacles. As fitting the battery recently almost killed me (no, I am not being overly dramatic, the exertion caused my blood sugar level to drop dangerously low and I almost passed out upside down in the footwell) removing it again is very definitely a no-no.
So, I bolted it back and will have to have a plan B.
I'm going to leave the original relays as is, and fit a new relay in the nosecone. I'll divert one of the fan connections to this and earth the new relay through the second high temp connector on the new fan switch. The original connector to the otter I will divert to the new fan switch low temp connector, which I am going to splice into the rad top tube. Should have the desired effect; at 88 degrees the low temp switch will activate both of the original relays (as the otter switch did), but only one of the fans will operate and the new relay will have power. At 92 degrees the new relay will be energised and the second fan will come on.
If I add a couple of extra relays I could have half speed/full speed switching instead of one fan/two fans. Not sure if that would be better or not - it might be less thermally stressful for the radiator though.
No amount of wriggling would get it past these obstacles. As fitting the battery recently almost killed me (no, I am not being overly dramatic, the exertion caused my blood sugar level to drop dangerously low and I almost passed out upside down in the footwell) removing it again is very definitely a no-no.
So, I bolted it back and will have to have a plan B.
I'm going to leave the original relays as is, and fit a new relay in the nosecone. I'll divert one of the fan connections to this and earth the new relay through the second high temp connector on the new fan switch. The original connector to the otter I will divert to the new fan switch low temp connector, which I am going to splice into the rad top tube. Should have the desired effect; at 88 degrees the low temp switch will activate both of the original relays (as the otter switch did), but only one of the fans will operate and the new relay will have power. At 92 degrees the new relay will be energised and the second fan will come on.
If I add a couple of extra relays I could have half speed/full speed switching instead of one fan/two fans. Not sure if that would be better or not - it might be less thermally stressful for the radiator though.
VictorMeldrew said:
Actually there is just one bolt holding in my fuse board .. and two almost impossible to access cable ties at the top. After about an hour of sweating, contorting, and almost losing digits I finally managed to cut them and get the board free. Free to move forward about two inches until it was baulked by the battery and/or the heater pipes.
Ermmmm... Thats trying to remove the fuseboard from the holder, not really what you want to do, as you discovered it achieves very little. The holder (read as bit of blackpool fg) unbolts - its just clamped from the edge through the tub - you need to jam a spanner in the wheelarch and undo in the footwell.Gassing Station | Chimaera | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff


