Subaru Forester Turbo.
Discussion
Same kind of things you would look out for on an Impreza. Same engine, Same floorpan. Manual transmission is pretty similar but you get selectable hi and low 4WD which the Impreza doesn't have.
You don't often see a rusty one and i've never heard of corrosion issues. I suppose it's the usual stuff you look out for and it helps if there's some or a full service history.
Just see what it drives like and listen out for unusual engine or drivetrain noises like gearbox or diff whine, wheel bearing whine, engine rattles, suspension knocks, and make sure you start it from cold and look and listen for smoke, piston slap, etc.., electrics all working. blah blah blah....
You've bought a few scoobs so you should be fine.
You don't often see a rusty one and i've never heard of corrosion issues. I suppose it's the usual stuff you look out for and it helps if there's some or a full service history.
Just see what it drives like and listen out for unusual engine or drivetrain noises like gearbox or diff whine, wheel bearing whine, engine rattles, suspension knocks, and make sure you start it from cold and look and listen for smoke, piston slap, etc.., electrics all working. blah blah blah....
You've bought a few scoobs so you should be fine.
Hi Paul
As said they are basically a detuned Impreza. The cams and turbo are different so you only get a weedy 177bhp. Remap can take it up to 200bhp (ish) TD04 turbo can push it to 260BHP+
The gearbox on the turbo doesn't have the hi/low range (only the N/A does).
The normal checks apply but if you know Imprezas you'll be fine.
Headgasket failure is as common as it is on Imprezas (i.e not very). The only model that did suffer badly from head gasket failure was the US spec N/A 2.5 engine.
Lots of Forester specific info on the European section of the Forester Board http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/f75/
Mark
As said they are basically a detuned Impreza. The cams and turbo are different so you only get a weedy 177bhp. Remap can take it up to 200bhp (ish) TD04 turbo can push it to 260BHP+
The gearbox on the turbo doesn't have the hi/low range (only the N/A does).
The normal checks apply but if you know Imprezas you'll be fine.
Headgasket failure is as common as it is on Imprezas (i.e not very). The only model that did suffer badly from head gasket failure was the US spec N/A 2.5 engine.
Lots of Forester specific info on the European section of the Forester Board http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/f75/
Mark
cheddar said:
Which model? Which year? STI or not?
All these can give engine problems from 100k miles on.
I'd buy a lower miles example if possible.
As stated in my first post, turbo 2001 model not an sti though. Just been for a test drive and it does go well, it has the winter pack with heated seats etc, dealer wont budge much on price, its on 113k and due a cambelt change, comes with 3 months warranty though, price is £1800All these can give engine problems from 100k miles on.
I'd buy a lower miles example if possible.
Has the dealer agreed to, or is going to do a full service and Cambelt change as part of the deal. If the dealer say's you've got to pay for it walk away. A main dealer will charge you £450-£550 thereabouts to do a big service, although at an independent subaru specialist it will cost about £300-£350.
It's been a while since i paid out main dealer or specialist prices because i do it all myself. I could be wrong, might be cheaper.
It's been a while since i paid out main dealer or specialist prices because i do it all myself. I could be wrong, might be cheaper.
This is the kit
http://www.importcarparts.co.uk/parts_info.asp?id=...
I'd ring around a few garages to get a price. It isn't hard to do, any good garage should be able to do it.
http://www.importcarparts.co.uk/parts_info.asp?id=...
I'd ring around a few garages to get a price. It isn't hard to do, any good garage should be able to do it.
markCSC said:
This is the kit
http://www.importcarparts.co.uk/parts_info.asp?id=...
I'd ring around a few garages to get a price. It isn't hard to do, any good garage should be able to do it.
Cheers if i get the car thats the first thing on the list.http://www.importcarparts.co.uk/parts_info.asp?id=...
I'd ring around a few garages to get a price. It isn't hard to do, any good garage should be able to do it.
rovermorris999 said:
I've had a 2003 Forester turbo for a couple of years now. Just about all the car you'll ever need for day to day use. It was brilliant in the snow and ice we've had for the last three winters. Fitting winter tyres this year too. I doubt you'll regret buying one.
I've had an 05 Sti for just over a year and fitted Wintrac Xtremes last year, was unstoppable up in the welsh hills in the bad weather!A query re. winter tyres: I have an Impreza 1.5R. The front tyres need replacing but the rears are fine. I live in the dales and we've had serious snow for the last two winters.
Is it advisable to fit winter or mud & snow tyres to the front if I leave the rears alone?
If not, what do you recommend?
Is it advisable to fit winter or mud & snow tyres to the front if I leave the rears alone?
If not, what do you recommend?
I'm not up on the N/A cars. Is the 1.5ltr a 4x4?
If so you can run different tyres front to back, but they should ideally be the same tyres on same axle and ideally all have similar wear so they are roughly the same circumference.
If you have two old tyres on the back with just 3mm or 4mm and brand new fronts with 8mm or 9mm that could put your center diff under stress because the tyres on both ends are rotating at different speeds, which means both front and rear diffs are out of sync and that may damage the center diff.
It's always a good idea to rotate your tyres front to back once every month or two, depending on your monthly mileage. I used to do mine on the scoob every month, although i do the tyres on the Jag (RWD) every 7,500 miles.
If so you can run different tyres front to back, but they should ideally be the same tyres on same axle and ideally all have similar wear so they are roughly the same circumference.
If you have two old tyres on the back with just 3mm or 4mm and brand new fronts with 8mm or 9mm that could put your center diff under stress because the tyres on both ends are rotating at different speeds, which means both front and rear diffs are out of sync and that may damage the center diff.
It's always a good idea to rotate your tyres front to back once every month or two, depending on your monthly mileage. I used to do mine on the scoob every month, although i do the tyres on the Jag (RWD) every 7,500 miles.
ScoobieWRX said:
I'm not up on the N/A cars. Is the 1.5ltr a 4x4?
If so you can run different tyres front to back, but they should ideally be the same tyres on same axle and ideally all have similar wear so they are roughly the same circumference.
If you have two old tyres on the back with just 3mm or 4mm and brand new fronts with 8mm or 9mm that could put your center diff under stress because the tyres on both ends are rotating at different speeds, which means both front and rear diffs are out of sync and that may damage the center diff.
It's always a good idea to rotate your tyres front to back once every month or two, depending on your monthly mileage. I used to do mine on the scoob every month, although i do the tyres on the Jag (RWD) every 7,500 miles.
Thanks. Very helpful.If so you can run different tyres front to back, but they should ideally be the same tyres on same axle and ideally all have similar wear so they are roughly the same circumference.
If you have two old tyres on the back with just 3mm or 4mm and brand new fronts with 8mm or 9mm that could put your center diff under stress because the tyres on both ends are rotating at different speeds, which means both front and rear diffs are out of sync and that may damage the center diff.
It's always a good idea to rotate your tyres front to back once every month or two, depending on your monthly mileage. I used to do mine on the scoob every month, although i do the tyres on the Jag (RWD) every 7,500 miles.
The 1.5 is a 4x4 with a dual ratio box. As the rears are new I'll go for something similar on the front to ensure even grip all round.
ScoobieWRX said:
I'm not up on the N/A cars. Is the 1.5ltr a 4x4?
If so you can run different tyres front to back, but they should ideally be the same tyres on same axle and ideally all have similar wear so they are roughly the same circumference.
If you have two old tyres on the back with just 3mm or 4mm and brand new fronts with 8mm or 9mm that could put your center diff under stress because the tyres on both ends are rotating at different speeds, which means both front and rear diffs are out of sync and that may damage the center diff.
It's always a good idea to rotate your tyres front to back once every month or two, depending on your monthly mileage. I used to do mine on the scoob every month, although i do the tyres on the Jag (RWD) every 7,500 miles.
Is this actually true? I've heard people state this but never seen any evidence. Surely if it was that sensitive we could only ever drive in a straight line. I could understand if it was inches different, but 4mm? If so you can run different tyres front to back, but they should ideally be the same tyres on same axle and ideally all have similar wear so they are roughly the same circumference.
If you have two old tyres on the back with just 3mm or 4mm and brand new fronts with 8mm or 9mm that could put your center diff under stress because the tyres on both ends are rotating at different speeds, which means both front and rear diffs are out of sync and that may damage the center diff.
It's always a good idea to rotate your tyres front to back once every month or two, depending on your monthly mileage. I used to do mine on the scoob every month, although i do the tyres on the Jag (RWD) every 7,500 miles.
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