Not sure what mine is worth..

[mrzigazaga]

Hi Peeps..I have written down all the things i have done or had done to mine in the last 12 months which are as follows:Drivers side fuel tank replaced..New fuel tank sender..N/S ss downpipe made..Prop balanced and fitted with grease nips..Re-furbished metering head..New injectors and seals..New distributor..Fuse board re-earthed..New ignition module..Front and rear brake pads..Steering gaiters..Re-furbed power steering pump..Steering column UJ and steering bush replaced..Tie arm bushes renewed..Cherry bomb mid silencers fitted..Upswept 3" tailpipes fitted..New headlight lens..Trailing arm pins replaced..New fuel pump and filter..Power steering and alternator belts fitted..New water pump..New thermostat..N/S wheel bearing replaced..Chromed rocker covers..New door seals..6 Months tax and 8 months MOT..Right i think thats all of it although ive probably missed something..

The bad points..Overheating which im trying to sort..Bent O/S suspension mount which isnt getting any worse..Engine mount needs replacing which i have..Interior was savaged by a mouse and the hood could do with replacing..If anyone has any idea can you email me please..I have a figure in my head but its probably too cheap..Cheers..Ziga


PS:Any potential buyers would have known this if they have followed the trials and tribulations of the zigmeister in the land of ziggadoo..

Edited by mrzigazaga on Thursday 18th August 12:02

[Kevin VRs]

A good place to start would be:

The specific model......

[mrzigazaga]

Thanks Kevin..Its a 1982 TVR tasmin 280i convertible..Red..As most of the peeps on this forum know..It was sat in a garage for 10 years until i came along and i suppose rescued it..Ive spent a considerable sum on getting it going but i need to move on to a V8 as the yearning is becoming unbearable...It was my first TVR and i will never forget it but like a marriage made in hell i just have to move on..Cheers..ziga

[Mr Tank]

Zig

What you want and what it's worth are two differant things!

Sorry to say but a far nicer red 280i with a magazine history was recently sold for only £2,250.00

So all I can say is put it up on P/H and e-bay. In the case of e-bay starting price of £1,000 and with a reserve of say £1,750 and see what happens!
P/H offers around £1,750

Again sorry mate but that's the market today!

Andy

Edited by Mr Tank on Thursday 18th August 15:39

[mrzigazaga]

Hi Andy..That was more nearer to what i thought..I could try for more but dont think i will get it and it will just sit there for ages...Cheers..Ziga

[KelWedge]

mrzigazaga said:

Hi Andy..That was more nearer to what i thought..I could try for more but dont think i will get it and it will just sit there for ages...Cheers..Ziga

I agree with that, I keep an eye on the ebay prices of wedges which are sold (Yes so I know I am sad)

All these are for your model

A low price in Aug 2010 £550 for a 1982
A high price in Nov 2010 £6200 for a 1981

So any place between mate, or two for recent cars which looked very good,etc etc (in the photo'!)

A one owner 1985 in June 2011 £2950
A 1986 in July 2011 £2500

But the average recently seems in the range £1250 to £2000

Dont know if that helps,

Good luck with the V8 search

[mrzigazaga]

Thanks mate..If i can sort out my overheating issue it would help but if all fails i will hang on to it for a little while and try to save up some money..Which will be hard as everytime i get a little bit i spend it on the car..If i was to do it on the cheap side i could just get the side panel in the hood replaced that has the rip in it..Do the carpet,Door cards,Centre console and tunnel trim myself..I think in reality the V8 is further away than i would like..I will persevere though..Cheers..ziga

[Grady]

I don't see recoring the radiator on your 'things done' list. I would imaging a 30 year old radiator could be part of your overheating problem - particularly if it sat for 10 years nothing moving the sludge around. And a good back-flush of the engine might help. Grady

[mrzigazaga]

Hi Grady..You could be right especially as its had a flush and re-fill of coolant..In fact thats when the problem started..I imagine that all the crud in the engine probably got pushed into the rad..The kenlowe temperature sensor is located in the top hose and has been sealed with mastik and if the rad has to be recored i would want to replace all the hoses but the kit is dearer than having the rad done..I would then have to replace the fan sensor with a better design that has a housing that the sensor goes into and the hose connects to..Cheers..Ziga

[Grady]

Have the otter switch converted to a threaded fitting and then you could use a less expensive switch to control the fan. It's nice that Kenlows are adjustable but not really necessary if expense is an issue. (Someone broke into my shed and took my Kenlow before I every got to install it.) Grady

[jeff m]

Overheating
Overheats only when sitting in traffic, or at a long red.
Overheats even with a clear road.

Tick which applies.

I think your car had no cowling on the rad, that makes a huge difference.
Also IMHO puller fans are better than pushers.
I have a clutch fan, obviously a puller on my black 280, it gets horribly hot here, mine gets to a tad over 80 and stays there.
I no longer look at the guage.

A clutch fan is quite efficient, it freewheels until it gets hot.
As yours is a series 1 car you have that option.

But tick the "which applies" 'cos maybe that crud you think got pushed into the rad could be sitting by your thermostat.
PS if you take off the thermo housing be careful putting it back as the thermostat can fall out of its seat..... tighten the bolts you'll break an "ear" off the housing.
Four Seasons make a replacement that fits. (Not sure if four Seasons parts avail in UK though)

[mrzigazaga]

Hi Jeff..The car overheats when on a long journey or a short one and in traffic...I attempted to change the thermostat today the old one was set to open at 97c and the one i put in was 88c..Two of the bolts have sheared the seating so i now need some 85mm x 10mm bolts so that i can put some nuts on the back..Typical..I think im the basket case and not the car...The rad looked like there were no crustations in there or scabby bogie type things..So until i can stop it leaking i wont know if its stopped overheating...cheers..Ziga

[jeff m]

mrzigazaga said:

Hi Jeff..The car overheats when on a long journey or a short one and in traffic...I attempted to change the thermostat today the old one was set to open at 97c and the one i put in was 88c..Two of the bolts have sheared the seating so i now need some 85mm x 10mm bolts so that i can put some nuts on the back..Typical..I think im the basket case and not the car...The rad looked like there were no crustations in there or scabby bogie type things..So until i can stop it leaking i wont know if its stopped overheating...cheers..Ziga

You have a leak....
You will overheat if your cooling system isn't tight, you need pressure.
Take your time putting back the thermostat "sandwich" we don't want a mishap

I found an old pic of your engine bay, it looks as though you could slide in an old cowling really easily, maybe someone has one !

OR... galvanised sheet, the sort they make ducting from, tin snips vice for bending, hammer.
But get the leak done. Maybe that's your only prob.
Good luck.

PS if you cure the overheating your car may actually be a little more desirable than you think. It's had a lot sorted, if someone can do their own upholstery it would be a good buy for them.

[Wedg1e]

Early Tasmins had no radiator cowling. Not saying it was a good idea, just that that's how they did it. My Tas didn't overheat without it.

[hallsie]

sod the upholstery, get you arsenal down here sunday morning and pick up these seats!!

Stu

[mrzigazaga]

If i can stop my thermostat housing from leaking i will...Cheers..Ziga

[Grady]

mrzigazaga said:

Two of the bolts have sheared the seating so i now need some MM x MM bolts so that i can put some nuts on the back

If you have to take the water pump off to drill out the threads, you might want to paint the face of the pump; when I replaced mine it got rusty looking (I think we've discussed this before?).

A tiny dab or 2 of gasket sealer will hold the 'stat in place and some applied to the seals will hold them. Lots of finesse and very little force. 3-4 hands are better.

Also, make sure the thermostat has a little wobble part (to let air through when closed) in the face or drill an 1/8 inch hole in the face of the 'stat.

Still think it's a clogged radiator but Jeff's points are all good.

[mrzigazaga]

Hi grady..Im going to use bolts or threaded stud thats longer and put washers and nuts on them..Im not sure whether its M5 or M6 thread but have one of the originals to take with me..I did use some sealant on the gasket and used a little on the seal to hold it in place..There was no crud when i emptied the coolant out and the rad looks ok from what i could see..Ive put a stat in with a temp setting of 88c instead of what was in there..97c..The book says the thermostat opens at 79-83c and is fully open at 97c..Im pressuming it will open slightly earlier now..Cheers..Ziga

[E Ponym]

Grady said:

Also, make sure the thermostat has a little wobble part (to let air through when closed) in the face or drill an 1/8 inch hole in the face of the 'stat.

The purpose of the Jiggle Pin is to let air through the system so it can end up elsewhere, if air is trapped arount the thermostat bulb then it will take absolutely ages to open.

Ensure that the Jiggle Pin is at the top (assuming that the thermostat isn't horizontal on the 280s and that the bulb of the thermostat is at the hot end.

Russ

[mrzigazaga]

Hi Peeps..I have received the new bolts for the thermostat housing which are slightly longer than the originals..Only one will go in as there is a chassis rail right in-line with two of the bolts..Which is really crazy..Went out there scraped the skin off a knuckle and now have a blister in the palm of my hand which looks like im going in for the fist of fury competition....And while i was under there i noticed the fuel filter leaking which has got progressively worst as i tried tightening up the clip.....Im now waitning on a reproduction star shaped rear thermostat housing from germany...I was going to use Hermetite green as a sealer..Its all i have at the mo, Should i use anything else?..It does say its suitable on the box..Cheers..Ziga