Rear wheel bearings, Taimar

[phillpot]

Passed MOT today, only issue was a little play in one of the rear wheel bearings, "search" not working at the moment but seem to recall reading somewhere (most likely on here) they're not the easiest thing to change?

Any help,suggestions or advise greatly appreciated.

[DavidY]

Buy an exchange hub from a reputable supplier eg Adrian Venn, Steve Reid, etc, get some new UJ's a s well. Very quick to change yourself then.

[Adrian@]

Hi Mike, Remove the bearing (support car safely/wheel nuts/wheel/drum screws/release shoe adjuster/6 minor nuts through flange/ driveshaft bellow) and draw the bearing with the outer UJ and halfshaft from the car, leaving the brakes in situ...(10 mins max) IF the bearing stone guard is spinning (this is the steel shield under the 2 nuts and tab washer then consider this as too far gone, the shield is captured as part of the building of the unit/bearing and crush tube and if loose then the bearings will have already be too far gone to adjust (yes you will take out the play BUT then the races will be buggered) I do an exchange unit. Note that the outer nut is torqued to 110 and 120 on 2 different nut versions as this is a taper fit, keyed flange, it's rear inner face is used as the internal face against the crush tube, no more...over tightening it stretches the threads and leads to failure, REMOVING the nut once over tightening to reset it at the right torque can lead to failure as the flange then can act like a hammer driver with the free space left, and break the nut off!
Adrian@

[phillpot]

Thanks Adrian,got the big nut at the back to turn one flat. That'll do for now, will have a proper look later in the year when I plan on stripping out the rear end to paint the chassis.
Diff seems a bit "clonky", will have to pop over one day and get your experienced opinion.

I'm guessing a partial body lift (2 or 3 inches) can be done like on an S or Chimaera to get at the outriggers?

[phillpot]

found this after a bit of rummaging around the net, explains things quite clearly and simply I thought.

[Adrian@]

AND explains that a tool 'THE BEAST' is required!! another reason that the unit fails is that unless you have 'THE BEAST' you bend the flange and right-off the unit anyway, these days none of the re-builders will re-use A the flange (bent) and B the stub axle (twisted) and C stub axles with crushed threads, and hence the large surcharge within the Triumph world.
Adrian@
PS I build these for a Triumph specialist and have broken one of 'THE BEAST'S' in my time!

Edited by Adrian@ on Tuesday 23 August 00:12