Wide band test video
Discussion
Now I've managed to sort all my electrics out, here is a quick video of the wideband working
Not done a test under load yet
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ViIV3Qg65qs
Edit- not sure why there is a angry face?
Not done a test under load yet
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ViIV3Qg65qs
Edit- not sure why there is a angry face?
Edited by Alexdaredevilz on Saturday 27th August 12:44
It measures my air fuel ratio
From my understanding 12.8-ish? give the best power, and Im wanting a higher number than that for idle 14.7-ish?
So all in all, you don't want the number to be lower than 12.5 and don't want a higher number than 15
Im sure some one else will be along shortly to explain better than me,
From my understanding 12.8-ish? give the best power, and Im wanting a higher number than that for idle 14.7-ish?
So all in all, you don't want the number to be lower than 12.5 and don't want a higher number than 15
Im sure some one else will be along shortly to explain better than me,
Thats increadably rich! I'd get it on the road and check it out under load. If its reading below 12:1 then your well too rich and likely to be washing the bores. 12.5 is about the richest you want to see it, anything below 12 isntt good. Below 10.8 and theres unburnt fuel coming out of the exhausts, as thats the richest thats chemically possible in reality,
Phil
Phil
daxtojeiro said:
Thats increadably rich! I'd get it on the road and check it out under load. If its reading below 12:1 then your well too rich and likely to be washing the bores. 12.5 is about the richest you want to see it, anything below 12 isntt good. Below 10.8 and theres unburnt fuel coming out of the exhausts, as thats the richest thats chemically possible in reality,
Phil
I know that's why I might be buying one of your systems but im worse than useless with electrics,Phil
How much power do you think im loosing at the moment? in a % figure
neal1980 said:
Does it need any calibration??
Can you check it against another well known source, thats what I did with mine on the rolling road.
AEM swear by its self calibration, but im going to my father gas analyser to check it in the week,Can you check it against another well known source, thats what I did with mine on the rolling road.
But to be honest, its been down on power, stinking of fuel and doing horrendous MPG recently so probably not far off
neal1980 said:
You thining MS then now??
Whats your future plans for the engine??
I was planning a engine conversion, but don't want to use a the heavy gearboxes but cant mate a T5 to the engine I want to use, so that's out the windowWhats your future plans for the engine??
Im going to rebuild the engine as soon as my missus's mini is done so i can have the garage back!
Im probably going to go high compression, solid lifter/cam i got a spanky throttle body im going to use, and aim for 6500k+ rpm
But i want to sort fuelling/ignition out first but im very very scared of electrics, got the money together just need to pick and choose what i want, im worse than a women picking shoes
Hi Alex, if I were you I would be looking to do a fuel pressure test.
I wouldn't mind betting your fuel pressure regulator (FPR) has been squeezed.
Squeezing the FPR was a common (& crude) performance mod that can work on older mechanical fuel injection systems.
Squeezing the FPR simply increases the fuel pressure and gives you a richer mixture.
Lots of badly informed tinkering owners also assume squeezing the FPR is a simple & free performance mod on electronic fuel injection.
IT ISN'T!
All it does on systems like the 14CUX is make them run way too rich, and you will actually lose power not increase it!
Look at your FPR and compare it with how a standard one looks, if the center section on yours looks inverted someone has given it a squeeze in a vice.
Look for witness marks on the FPR, but the squeeze is normally done with a socket of a diameter that fits the inner face of the FPR, so it can be hard to tell unless you compare yours with an un-squeezed one.
If you are running very rich (& it seems you may be) it's very likely your FPR has had the squeeze mod.
(of cause you really need to see whats happening under load before you can say for sure)
The picture below shows an un-squeezed FPR, check if the inner face on yours looks indented compared with this one, if so it's been squeezed.

The solution is to simply replace the FPR with a new one from a Land Rover dealer.
I wouldn't mind betting your fuel pressure regulator (FPR) has been squeezed.
Squeezing the FPR was a common (& crude) performance mod that can work on older mechanical fuel injection systems.
Squeezing the FPR simply increases the fuel pressure and gives you a richer mixture.
Lots of badly informed tinkering owners also assume squeezing the FPR is a simple & free performance mod on electronic fuel injection.
IT ISN'T!
All it does on systems like the 14CUX is make them run way too rich, and you will actually lose power not increase it!
Look at your FPR and compare it with how a standard one looks, if the center section on yours looks inverted someone has given it a squeeze in a vice.
Look for witness marks on the FPR, but the squeeze is normally done with a socket of a diameter that fits the inner face of the FPR, so it can be hard to tell unless you compare yours with an un-squeezed one.
If you are running very rich (& it seems you may be) it's very likely your FPR has had the squeeze mod.
(of cause you really need to see whats happening under load before you can say for sure)
The picture below shows an un-squeezed FPR, check if the inner face on yours looks indented compared with this one, if so it's been squeezed.
The solution is to simply replace the FPR with a new one from a Land Rover dealer.
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t, going to clean it up and paint it monday