Wide band fitted now won't start
Discussion
Just finnished fitting the Wideband O2 sensor this morning but then couldn't start ther car. Gutted 
Alarm working
Fuel pump primes
Engine turns over but no sign of it firing
Megasquirt ECU working (feeding data to Laptop)
carried out the following checks so far:
Disconnected / Reconnected battery
Reset the Inertia switch(Front was on axle stands to do the under car wiring)
Checked for spark - OK
Changed the coil (had a spare)
Swapped the relays (fuel pump still primes)
My thoughts are that it could be any of the following
1) Injectors (is it possible I could have shorted these when testing for the switched live to power the wideband controller)
2) Ignition module
3) Imobiliser
4) Wiring fault in loom
Any other ideas as to what the problem could be or any advice on testing the injectors and ignition module?
Alarm working
Fuel pump primes
Engine turns over but no sign of it firing
Megasquirt ECU working (feeding data to Laptop)
carried out the following checks so far:
Disconnected / Reconnected battery
Reset the Inertia switch(Front was on axle stands to do the under car wiring)
Checked for spark - OK
Changed the coil (had a spare)
Swapped the relays (fuel pump still primes)
My thoughts are that it could be any of the following
1) Injectors (is it possible I could have shorted these when testing for the switched live to power the wideband controller)
2) Ignition module
3) Imobiliser
4) Wiring fault in loom
Any other ideas as to what the problem could be or any advice on testing the injectors and ignition module?
No hasn't started since I dropped it back down off the axle stands, so the fault has occurred some time during the process of fitting the wideband. not sure i've done anything stupid to cause this, just disturbed some wiring or if its due to the car being at an angle during fitting. (was quite high at the front)
I've installed an inline fuse to the wifeband controller and checked all the other fuses on the fuse board.
Just going to check the injector resistances and have another look at everything else.
I've installed an inline fuse to the wifeband controller and checked all the other fuses on the fuse board.
Just going to check the injector resistances and have another look at everything else.
A couple more tests this morning, but been called into work now.
Tested the injector resitance - 16.5 ohms (tested one on each bank)
Checked spark plugs - dry, but some carbon deposit.
When I get back i'll try running the fuel pump from a 12v source. although if it primes I assume its working.
If the pump works OK, looks like the dash top will have to come off to check the Imobiliser connections.
Don't feel quite as bad as the weather is sh!t
Tested the injector resitance - 16.5 ohms (tested one on each bank)
Checked spark plugs - dry, but some carbon deposit.
When I get back i'll try running the fuel pump from a 12v source. although if it primes I assume its working.
If the pump works OK, looks like the dash top will have to come off to check the Imobiliser connections.
Don't feel quite as bad as the weather is sh!t
Well having tested everything I can think of it looks like the injectors aren’t firing. Also had a chat with Carl Baker which I think rules out the immobiliser (apologies again Carl for ringing on a bank holiday, wasn’t a holiday up here)
Tested the resistance across each of the injector banks, Pins 2 & 11 - 4.9 ohms, Pins 2 & 13 - 4.7 Ohms.
Tested the voltage at the Injector plugs – Zero
Voltage at Pin 30 on Main relay (Thick Brown / Green wire) – Zero
Voltage at Pin 30 on Fuel pump relay (Thick White / Pink wire) – 12v
This is where I’m finding the wiring diagram a bit confusing. This diagram http://www.extraefi.co.uk/Drawings/PDF_Files/Hotwi... and the one in the bible shows pin 30 on both relays connected together by a brown wire when in reality the fuel pump relay is supplied by a white / purple wire and the Main relay by a brown / Green wire. See pic below from another thread
Can anyone advise how to confirm the Injector voltage and also where the brown / Green supply to the relay comes from as I think I’ll need to trace this back to the source. Is there an inline fuse for this?
Note, Both relays seem to be working as the fuel pump primes and my wide band operates when I press the key fob button and also with the relays swapped. (wide band live is connected to the white / orange feed to the original narrow band sensors) Might still change these just to be sure.
Tested the resistance across each of the injector banks, Pins 2 & 11 - 4.9 ohms, Pins 2 & 13 - 4.7 Ohms.
Tested the voltage at the Injector plugs – Zero
Voltage at Pin 30 on Main relay (Thick Brown / Green wire) – Zero
Voltage at Pin 30 on Fuel pump relay (Thick White / Pink wire) – 12v
This is where I’m finding the wiring diagram a bit confusing. This diagram http://www.extraefi.co.uk/Drawings/PDF_Files/Hotwi... and the one in the bible shows pin 30 on both relays connected together by a brown wire when in reality the fuel pump relay is supplied by a white / purple wire and the Main relay by a brown / Green wire. See pic below from another thread
Can anyone advise how to confirm the Injector voltage and also where the brown / Green supply to the relay comes from as I think I’ll need to trace this back to the source. Is there an inline fuse for this?
Note, Both relays seem to be working as the fuel pump primes and my wide band operates when I press the key fob button and also with the relays swapped. (wide band live is connected to the white / orange feed to the original narrow band sensors) Might still change these just to be sure.
Now sorted, although I don't know whether to laugh or cry.
After all the testing, checking the loom injectors etc. couldn't think of anything else to check, so decided to check all the fuses and relays in the fuseboard. It turns out that there was a blown 20A fuse, which according to the diagram in the handbook,should be for the wipers and rear brake lights, Which I hadn't bothered checking previously. Changed it out and started first time.
Serves me right I suppose for believing the fuse board layout in the hand book, or may be it’s just a later mode carried out by a previous owner. I also noticed that I seem to have an additional fuse connected that isn't listed in the handbook. Next time I have a problem I’ll definitely check all the fuses, could save a lot of time and messing about.
After all the testing, checking the loom injectors etc. couldn't think of anything else to check, so decided to check all the fuses and relays in the fuseboard. It turns out that there was a blown 20A fuse, which according to the diagram in the handbook,should be for the wipers and rear brake lights, Which I hadn't bothered checking previously. Changed it out and started first time.
Serves me right I suppose for believing the fuse board layout in the hand book, or may be it’s just a later mode carried out by a previous owner. I also noticed that I seem to have an additional fuse connected that isn't listed in the handbook. Next time I have a problem I’ll definitely check all the fuses, could save a lot of time and messing about.
macdeb said:
Good to see you got it sorted bloke. Similar tale here when fitting MS, Original TVR wiring don't you love it.
Talking of which.My new MS install proved excellent giving me 308 bhp and nice torque at Dales but suddenly decided to run 1 bank only. He swapped the chip and the car pefrormed well all weekend racing at york running 12.4's without gas.
On the way back however the same thing happened. I was waiting for the AA and tried the car again and it started running ok. So its an intermittent fault.
Apparently it could be a TVR specific wiring gremlin (according to Shaun at V8D) that can be sorted but i have to wait to see if Dale fixes it this weekend.
Alex,
Looks a bit rich at the moment, although only been for a quick spin and haven't logged any datafrom the ECU yet.
For comparison at idle, Cold AFR was ~11.5 increasing to 13.5 when fully warmed up.
Will connect to the ECU tonight to calibtrate it against the guage and then run some logs on the way into work tomorrow.
Looks a bit rich at the moment, although only been for a quick spin and haven't logged any datafrom the ECU yet.
For comparison at idle, Cold AFR was ~11.5 increasing to 13.5 when fully warmed up.
Will connect to the ECU tonight to calibtrate it against the guage and then run some logs on the way into work tomorrow.
dbv8 said:
Talking of which.
My new MS install proved excellent giving me 308 bhp and nice torque at Dales but suddenly decided to run 1 bank only. He swapped the chip and the car pefrormed well all weekend racing at york running 12.4's without gas.
On the way back however the same thing happened. I was waiting for the AA and tried the car again and it started running ok. So its an intermittent fault.
Apparently it could be a TVR specific wiring gremlin (according to Shaun at V8D) that can be sorted but i have to wait to see if Dale fixes it this weekend.
Each bank of inj have there own live + feed Derek so maybe it's losing supply here possibly,maybe where the 2 feeds are spiced together or if they are independently fused etc just a thought My new MS install proved excellent giving me 308 bhp and nice torque at Dales but suddenly decided to run 1 bank only. He swapped the chip and the car pefrormed well all weekend racing at york running 12.4's without gas.
On the way back however the same thing happened. I was waiting for the AA and tried the car again and it started running ok. So its an intermittent fault.
Apparently it could be a TVR specific wiring gremlin (according to Shaun at V8D) that can be sorted but i have to wait to see if Dale fixes it this weekend.
as it may not be the switching(ECU) side that's at fault 
probably best to take it back to the installer if that's the case though 
as most don't like people fiddling which is understandable 
Edited by Simon says on Thursday 1st September 09:42
Simon says said:
ach bank of inj have there own live + feed Derek so maybe it's losing supply here possibly,maybe where the 2 feeds are spiced together or if they are independently fused etc just a thought as it may not be the switching(ECU) side that's at fault probably best to take it back to the installer if that's the case though as most don't like people fiddling which is understandable
Its sat in Dales garage waiting for him to take a look tomorrow. As its intermittent its a wierd one but like i said, advice from Shaun may just fix it. as it may not be the switching(ECU) side that's at fault probably best to take it back to the installer if that's the case though as most don't like people fiddling which is understandable Edited by Simon says on Thursday 1st September 09:42
dbv8 said:
Simon says said:
ach bank of inj have there own live + feed Derek so maybe it's losing supply here possibly,maybe where the 2 feeds are spiced together or if they are independently fused etc just a thought as it may not be the switching(ECU) side that's at fault probably best to take it back to the installer if that's the case though as most don't like people fiddling which is understandable
Its sat in Dales garage waiting for him to take a look tomorrow. As its intermittent its a wierd one but like i said, advice from Shaun may just fix it. as it may not be the switching(ECU) side that's at fault probably best to take it back to the installer if that's the case though as most don't like people fiddling which is understandable Edited by Simon says on Thursday 1st September 09:42
glad your all back and running 
Where the single positive supply to all injectors splits into 8 (or 2 then 4) as well as where each of the negative banked groups are joined within the loom is always a bit of a mare.
When making up looms I prefer to bring all 8 negative switching wires back into the car (and select how they are batched up at that point) leaving a bit more room to beef up the joins in the loom where all the positives come together. It still makes the looms a bit ugly - but at least the joints are easy to find that way, its a big plus point making the looms 'unwrappable' for maintenance IMHO (case of plan for it & it'll never happen).
When making up looms I prefer to bring all 8 negative switching wires back into the car (and select how they are batched up at that point) leaving a bit more room to beef up the joins in the loom where all the positives come together. It still makes the looms a bit ugly - but at least the joints are easy to find that way, its a big plus point making the looms 'unwrappable' for maintenance IMHO (case of plan for it & it'll never happen).
dbv8 said:
suddenly decided to run 1 bank only.
dbv8 said:
So its an intermittent fault.
I had exactly this problem when I installed the MS. Turned out to be a dodgy solder joint on the left bank's fuel transistor. Would sometimes work, then stop for no reason. Took ages to find it as presumed it was a wiring fault, was only after testing all the wiring that I narrowed it down to the problem being inside ECU. If it happens to be that problem, then reinstalling the chip may have nudged the fuel driver enough to make it start working again.It's unlikely yours is the same problem, but thought I'd mention it as symptoms are similar.
I am sure Dale will sort it asap. Ive sent him a link to this thread just in case something helps.
Hopefully i can pick the car up and attend the funeral in it. 400 cars turned up for a short notice get together for Kasey the other night and all racers, rodders and alike are invited to bring their cars for the funeral procession. I think Billingham will come to a standstill on Tuesday!
Sorry to the OP for going OT
Hopefully i can pick the car up and attend the funeral in it. 400 cars turned up for a short notice get together for Kasey the other night and all racers, rodders and alike are invited to bring their cars for the funeral procession. I think Billingham will come to a standstill on Tuesday!
Sorry to the OP for going OT
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