Radiator replacement
Discussion
Hi,
Back of my holiday and my garage floor is covered in coolant (well a pint or so). The car had its 12k service a couple of days before I left for my holiday and I did hope that it was just a loose hose perhaps disturbed in the service but it looks to me like the radiator is leaking from the front drivers side. I will post a pic up in the morning but I am quite sure it is the radiator that is at fault and not a hose.
One of the reasons I bought the Griff was that the engine area looked fairly roomy and easy to maintain. Is a radiator replacement an easy job or should I just get it back down the garage? The 12k service (and a couple of other little jobs) wiped out my initial maintenance budget (I have only just bought the car) and I would like to save money if the job is simple enough.
I am no mechanic but willing to learn - I haven't yet bought the bible so I would appreciate a quick numpty guide to the job if possible. When I say numpty I mean numpty, I don't even know how to bleed the radiator let alone how to refill it without causing air locks. I had a quick search but most the advice is for specific problems people have faced when removing the rad rather than an overall guide - I need to know how to get started.
The reason doing the job myself appeals is I also want to tidy up the engine bay and a few jobs look easier if the rad was out. Also, would I be better of recoring mine or fitting a new one (ali possibly). Lastly, is it a good idea to replace the hoses with silicon ones while doing the rad replacement? In my 4.5 Cerbera I had previously I replaced the hoses with silicon ones after a hose split as most people recommend them over standard.
Thanks.
Tim.
Back of my holiday and my garage floor is covered in coolant (well a pint or so). The car had its 12k service a couple of days before I left for my holiday and I did hope that it was just a loose hose perhaps disturbed in the service but it looks to me like the radiator is leaking from the front drivers side. I will post a pic up in the morning but I am quite sure it is the radiator that is at fault and not a hose.
One of the reasons I bought the Griff was that the engine area looked fairly roomy and easy to maintain. Is a radiator replacement an easy job or should I just get it back down the garage? The 12k service (and a couple of other little jobs) wiped out my initial maintenance budget (I have only just bought the car) and I would like to save money if the job is simple enough.
I am no mechanic but willing to learn - I haven't yet bought the bible so I would appreciate a quick numpty guide to the job if possible. When I say numpty I mean numpty, I don't even know how to bleed the radiator let alone how to refill it without causing air locks. I had a quick search but most the advice is for specific problems people have faced when removing the rad rather than an overall guide - I need to know how to get started.
The reason doing the job myself appeals is I also want to tidy up the engine bay and a few jobs look easier if the rad was out. Also, would I be better of recoring mine or fitting a new one (ali possibly). Lastly, is it a good idea to replace the hoses with silicon ones while doing the rad replacement? In my 4.5 Cerbera I had previously I replaced the hoses with silicon ones after a hose split as most people recommend them over standard.
Thanks.
Tim.
Here are the pics, the first one is looking towards the car under the reg plate from the front, the second is the other side of the rad from inside the engine bay:
I thought the leak may have been from the bottom hose above the bottom corner as this is directly above the wet area but looking at the first pic I think it is the rad leaking and the fans have probably just pulled some water through when on.
Tim.
I thought the leak may have been from the bottom hose above the bottom corner as this is directly above the wet area but looking at the first pic I think it is the rad leaking and the fans have probably just pulled some water through when on.
Tim.
WOO5IE said:
The colour of that water looks as though the coolant hasnt been changed for years.
I would have thought that it was part of the 12k service. I would as k the garage that did the service
I think the rad may have wept and rusted previously as I did have a flush and coolant replace as part of the 12k service just two weeks ago. I would have thought that it was part of the 12k service. I would as k the garage that did the service
To be fair, the stuff on the floor looks better than on the rad. A clear pink liquid not rusty at all.
Looking forward to getting on with the job now - I bet I won't be saying that in a few days time!
Tim.
I may have sourced a 2nd hand one for good value. I might start taking thinks apart tonight if I have time.
What is the best way to drain the system (I guess this is the first job)?
My plan so far is as follows (and this is just my best guess from looking at the bay area - if anyone has the correct way please let me know):
1) Drain the coolant from system - not quite sure on bets way of doing this.
2) Remove air pipe that runs up side to front air filter.
3) Have a look to see if the air filter also needs removing and remove if necessary.
3) Remove washer bottle.
4) Remove expansion tank.
5) Remove alarm siren.
6) Remove fan wires and rad hoses.
7) Undo rad.
8) Tape something front of car nose to protect from any scratches.
9) Lift out rad.
10) Wait for new rad to arrive.
11) Reverse process to put everything back in and then figure out how to best refill the coolant.
With removing electric connectors involved and water is it best to remove the battery before I start or does this just lead to alarm problems latter on?
Tim.
What is the best way to drain the system (I guess this is the first job)?
My plan so far is as follows (and this is just my best guess from looking at the bay area - if anyone has the correct way please let me know):
1) Drain the coolant from system - not quite sure on bets way of doing this.
2) Remove air pipe that runs up side to front air filter.
3) Have a look to see if the air filter also needs removing and remove if necessary.
3) Remove washer bottle.
4) Remove expansion tank.
5) Remove alarm siren.
6) Remove fan wires and rad hoses.
7) Undo rad.
8) Tape something front of car nose to protect from any scratches.
9) Lift out rad.
10) Wait for new rad to arrive.
11) Reverse process to put everything back in and then figure out how to best refill the coolant.
With removing electric connectors involved and water is it best to remove the battery before I start or does this just lead to alarm problems latter on?
Tim.
3 No need to remove the filter box....
6.1 Romove fans and cowels (not an easy job.. but will make the rad lift easier!)
8.1 Ensure bolts on exhaust clamps are not faceing forwards.. if so cover or rotate!
9 When removing the rad, you push it up into the nose as far as you can and then lift the bottom up and out... ensure the top hose stub does not leaver up inside the nose and crack the gel coat on the outside!!!
on re-fitting... you may want to cut a few mm off eack side mounting brackett.. as they can be tight!
Have fun... you may prefer a two man lift if your backs bad.. one person each side
One last thing... put inserts in the holes where the alarm goes when off.. coz getting thoes nuts back on it a right pain!!!
6.1 Romove fans and cowels (not an easy job.. but will make the rad lift easier!)
8.1 Ensure bolts on exhaust clamps are not faceing forwards.. if so cover or rotate!
9 When removing the rad, you push it up into the nose as far as you can and then lift the bottom up and out... ensure the top hose stub does not leaver up inside the nose and crack the gel coat on the outside!!!
on re-fitting... you may want to cut a few mm off eack side mounting brackett.. as they can be tight!
Have fun... you may prefer a two man lift if your backs bad.. one person each side
One last thing... put inserts in the holes where the alarm goes when off.. coz getting thoes nuts back on it a right pain!!!
Edited by TVR Beaver on Tuesday 30th August 15:15
TVR Beaver said:
on re-fitting... you may want to cut a few mm off eack side mounting brackett.. as they can be tight!
Have fun... you may prefer a two man lift if your backs bad.. one person each side
Cheers, sounds like you have done this before...Have fun... you may prefer a two man lift if your backs bad.. one person each side
What is the best way to drain the system? Unless the rad has a drain plug (couldn't see one) I was just going take off the expansion tank cap, the swirl pot screw and then the lowest hose I could find and point it into a bucket/pan until water stops coming out.
Tim.
I've done it about 4 times (long story!!) and can get it on the deck in about 20 mins now 
I just pull off the bottom hose and catch what I can (usualy not a lot!)...
.
One more thing.. before you start (not sure what air hose you have fitted).. but take a look and see if the top rad hose is crushing the intake pipe... you may want to lower this when the rad is out to prevent this happening...?
.
Also, may be worth jacking the front of the car up to get a better working height?
I just pull off the bottom hose and catch what I can (usualy not a lot!)...
.
One more thing.. before you start (not sure what air hose you have fitted).. but take a look and see if the top rad hose is crushing the intake pipe... you may want to lower this when the rad is out to prevent this happening...?
.
Also, may be worth jacking the front of the car up to get a better working height?
TVR Beaver said:
I've done it about 4 times (long story!!) and can get it on the deck in about 20 mins now
I just pull off the bottom hose and catch what I can (usualy not a lot!)...
.
One more thing.. before you start (not sure what air hose you have fitted).. but take a look and see if the top rad hose is crushing the intake pipe... you may want to lower this when the rad is out to prevent this happening...?
Thanks, I hope I will be doing it once and if I can do just the removal in under four hours I will be happy.I just pull off the bottom hose and catch what I can (usualy not a lot!)...
.
One more thing.. before you start (not sure what air hose you have fitted).. but take a look and see if the top rad hose is crushing the intake pipe... you may want to lower this when the rad is out to prevent this happening...?
I will check the position of the top rad hose, while I am waiting with the rad out I was going to have a little tidy up of the engine bay as I don't think any part of it has been cleaned from the day the car was made. Put it this way, I thought the nice shiny expansion tanks and swirl pots in photos I have seen were expensive polished replacements rather than just clean. Mine are a grey matt colour currently - will see what a tube of autosol can do.
Tim.
Yes.. the top pipe as shown here is now moved down towards the switch a bit and also cut a tad shorter to give better clearance... and also the bracket shown (both sides) are trimmed back to give better inner wing clearance....
Sorry but don't have 'after' pic's... just 'before'.... but I'm sure you'll understand once you've got in there
Check that the edges of the fan trays haven't cut into the rad core, this was the cause of my leak.
When the rad is out take the opportunity to dismantle and clean the earth terminals on the chassis ends which are normally hidden by the rad. These are often the cause of earth problems. Soak in WD40 or whatever as the bolts are known to shear off.
Quite possible to do the job with the fans on but very heavy!
When the rad is out take the opportunity to dismantle and clean the earth terminals on the chassis ends which are normally hidden by the rad. These are often the cause of earth problems. Soak in WD40 or whatever as the bolts are known to shear off.
Quite possible to do the job with the fans on but very heavy!
Apart from the bolts the fans on my 500 rested on small oblong rubber pieces that spaced it a few mm off the rad.
These frequently become detached and can cause the rotating blades to contact the rad core and cause a leak, these are however usually small leaks.
Your pics show the normal area where the rads fail, ( mine has twice) at the nearside bottom where the core meets the side tanks.
Boston radiators Boston Lincs recored mine for £175 exchange I found them excellent and quick ( 3 days)
Best of luck, not a difficult but a fiddly job.
These frequently become detached and can cause the rotating blades to contact the rad core and cause a leak, these are however usually small leaks.
Your pics show the normal area where the rads fail, ( mine has twice) at the nearside bottom where the core meets the side tanks.
Boston radiators Boston Lincs recored mine for £175 exchange I found them excellent and quick ( 3 days)
Best of luck, not a difficult but a fiddly job.
Right, nearly done. Some of those hoses were really tight, I don't think they have been off before.
Just one problem, the alarm bracket. Do I have to jack up the car to access the rear of the bracket. The nuts just turn forever and I can't seem to figure out how to get inside the nose without jacking the car.
Also, the small down tube off the top hose that is directly under the y section is stuck tight. I would like to get this off so I can remove the metal pipe and clean it up. Is removing the y section easy as this will give me the room to get some force on the pipe.
On the plus side, antifreeze does a nice job cleaning up engine bay but it does make cuts on your hands sting.
Tim.
Just one problem, the alarm bracket. Do I have to jack up the car to access the rear of the bracket. The nuts just turn forever and I can't seem to figure out how to get inside the nose without jacking the car.
Also, the small down tube off the top hose that is directly under the y section is stuck tight. I would like to get this off so I can remove the metal pipe and clean it up. Is removing the y section easy as this will give me the room to get some force on the pipe.
On the plus side, antifreeze does a nice job cleaning up engine bay but it does make cuts on your hands sting.
Tim.
As i said before.. the nuts are a sod.. there should be two holes at the side where you can get your fingers in to hold them.. if not you have to get inside the wing... not sure but you might be able to get in thru the headlight inspection cover if your hands and arms are thin enough?... As I said before.. Insert the bl**dy things before you put it back
Y piece is easy to get off... You'll need to strap it up and pull it together to get it back on...
Y piece is easy to get off... You'll need to strap it up and pull it together to get it back on...
Arms are long but not thin enough to get round. I tried last night. I will have another go once I get back in tonight, worst case I have a very small and thin metal saw I think I will be able to slide between the bracket and the wing to cut them off (the sort you use to cut bolts and nails on old sheds/buildings that have rusted up). I don't really want to do this though as it will leave a few scratches which will need a touch up.
I am also torn on just slapping the replacement rad back in asap and probably being back on the road early next week or to give myself an extra week and replace the pipes and hoses while everything is out. I got a bit carried away taking hoses off last night. I am up to the engine block from the bottom hose and I am seriously considering removing the swirl pot for a good polish. I had a problem removing the nut off the top of the swirl pot but I will start another thread on that one so it doesn't get lost in this one.
I suppose I could always just slap the replacement rad in and put off a mini restoration until December. The rails where waxoil can't reach could do with a rub down and paint back up in places. No real rust yet but some discolouration on the white coating is starting in places. Although if I start painting chassis rails I suppose I should get the wheels off and do the wishbones while I am at it.
Tim.
I am also torn on just slapping the replacement rad back in asap and probably being back on the road early next week or to give myself an extra week and replace the pipes and hoses while everything is out. I got a bit carried away taking hoses off last night. I am up to the engine block from the bottom hose and I am seriously considering removing the swirl pot for a good polish. I had a problem removing the nut off the top of the swirl pot but I will start another thread on that one so it doesn't get lost in this one.
I suppose I could always just slap the replacement rad in and put off a mini restoration until December. The rails where waxoil can't reach could do with a rub down and paint back up in places. No real rust yet but some discolouration on the white coating is starting in places. Although if I start painting chassis rails I suppose I should get the wheels off and do the wishbones while I am at it.
Tim.
The alarm is difficult to remove considering what a small item it is. However you can obtain access to the nuts on the back by removing the N/S horn from inside the air intake. Behind the horn is an opening large enough to get your arm in to reach the nuts. When I replaced my alarm I used heavy grade large diameter self-tappers and have had no trouble ever since.
One other thing, when you replace the rad make sure it is 'floaty' and not bolted in rigidly, or any body flex will stretch the rad. Use rubber mountings and don't do the nuts on the ears each side up tightly.
As regards not being able to get the top off the swirl pot Steve Heath sells an excellent mod. to overcome this.
This is a view of the underside of the pod, the hole on the left is where the alarm wiring passes through the inner wing.
One other thing, when you replace the rad make sure it is 'floaty' and not bolted in rigidly, or any body flex will stretch the rad. Use rubber mountings and don't do the nuts on the ears each side up tightly.
As regards not being able to get the top off the swirl pot Steve Heath sells an excellent mod. to overcome this.
This is a view of the underside of the pod, the hole on the left is where the alarm wiring passes through the inner wing.
Thanks - I will give that a go tonight. I think I will be ordering a new cap for the swirl pot as it looks like it has been stuck before (one side of the slot in the cap is slightly rounded). Is this the one you recommend:
https://delta.securesslhost.net/~shenglt/catalog/p...
https://delta.securesslhost.net/~shenglt/catalog/p...
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