Swirl pot cap stuck
Discussion
Hi,
I am currently replacing my rad and believe to refill the coolant I will need to top up from the swirl pot. The problem is the cap is really tight. At one point I thought it was welded on. Last night I managed to snap both a screwdriver and a spanner in half trying to remove it. I was about to put the end of a crowbar in it that should fit but I am worried about damaging the pot. Would some heat from a blow torch help or will that discolour the pot or bugger the cap (I have had blow torch disasters in the past).
Thanks.
Tim.
I am currently replacing my rad and believe to refill the coolant I will need to top up from the swirl pot. The problem is the cap is really tight. At one point I thought it was welded on. Last night I managed to snap both a screwdriver and a spanner in half trying to remove it. I was about to put the end of a crowbar in it that should fit but I am worried about damaging the pot. Would some heat from a blow torch help or will that discolour the pot or bugger the cap (I have had blow torch disasters in the past).
Thanks.
Tim.
Hi Tim
I have had this problem a few times
Trying to put loads of pressure in twisting the cap off can cause more damage.
Causing the cap and thread to bind up and go out of shape.
I dont know how far you have gone with your rad replacement, but in the past i have run the engine until everything has warmed up.
Turn off engine and wait until it has cooled down enough to unscrew cap.
I now make a point of checking the swirl pot levels and unscrewing the cap regulary.
Hope this helps (im no expert on mechanics etc, but if it helps then thats good)
Vince
I have had this problem a few times
Trying to put loads of pressure in twisting the cap off can cause more damage.
Causing the cap and thread to bind up and go out of shape.
I dont know how far you have gone with your rad replacement, but in the past i have run the engine until everything has warmed up.
Turn off engine and wait until it has cooled down enough to unscrew cap.
I now make a point of checking the swirl pot levels and unscrewing the cap regulary.
Hope this helps (im no expert on mechanics etc, but if it helps then thats good)
Vince
Edited by themac on Wednesday 31st August 10:33
TimJM said:
Was it less than £16 though......
Not to worry, the nearest B&Q is probably about £10 in petrol from here anyway. The way things were going last night I will probably need a new swirl pot to fit to my cap if the bugger doesn't budge later.
Tim.
It will come off. I had the same problem with mine.Not to worry, the nearest B&Q is probably about £10 in petrol from here anyway. The way things were going last night I will probably need a new swirl pot to fit to my cap if the bugger doesn't budge later.
Tim.
You need a tool that will fit nice and tight into the slot on the head of the brass plug. I used one of those old fashioned bike spanners purchased at Halfords, but whatever you use it needs to fit tight and it needs to be rigid, something like a slotted screw driver will not do!
Then you need a large adjustable spanner to attach to the bike spanner (or similar) to give you some proper leverage.
Then cover up anything that may get damaged with something or another and apply some muscle. It will come loose.
When you put it back on I would put a bit of vasaline on the thread and don't over tighten it....just enough to avoid leaks.
Cheers. BB.
A pick axe!
I can see where you are coming from but I though the swirl pots themselves were easy to warp. I guess a pick axe would work if it fits under the bonnet, it would be close.
I think my strategy will be heat it up a little, put the end of a small crow bar in it hope for the best. If that fails then maybe I will resort to a pick axe.
Will be having a crack at it later once back from the pub.
Tim.
I can see where you are coming from but I though the swirl pots themselves were easy to warp. I guess a pick axe would work if it fits under the bonnet, it would be close.
I think my strategy will be heat it up a little, put the end of a small crow bar in it hope for the best. If that fails then maybe I will resort to a pick axe.
Will be having a crack at it later once back from the pub.
Tim.
TimJM said:
Would some heat from a blow torch help or will that discolour the pot or bugger the cap (I have had blow torch disasters in the past).
I had this issue too, with the cap being done up too tight originally. Managed with a long bar attached to a large headed screwdriver that fitted the slot nicely on it's side (if you see what I mean!). Lots of torque is what is needed, but hadn't thought of a pick axe I must admit. Personally I definitely avoid using a blow torch.In my opinion, the problem with the standard cap is the O ring grove is too deep and/or the O ring is too small and it needs to be nipped up to get a seal. But with a radiator plug there is no groove so all you need to do is squash the O ring a bit to get a seal and it holds. So next time you need to remove the plug it isn’t tight at all and comes out real easy.
I use a 5mm steel plate and a mole grip see pic. 5mm is a perfect slot fit and avoids burring the corners as experienced with screw drivers, pick axes etc. Use HMP grease on the rubber O ring, it helps future removal. Good advice about not doing up the rad nuts too tight, need a bit of 'float' using some rubber inserts. . Some aluminium rads are more prone to fracture if too tight.
Below the mole grip handle you can just see the siren bracket getting in the way. My siren removed. A bl...y nuisance. My meta now bridged.
Below the mole grip handle you can just see the siren bracket getting in the way. My siren removed. A bl...y nuisance. My meta now bridged.
Well the cap is off.
I was right that the pick axe would be too long to get under the bonnet (the spike end would be through it) but inspired by garden tool solutions I used a particularly heavy garden spade with a long shaft laid on it's side. The result was my three year old daughter could have removed the cap. It didn't require any effort it just turned like a hot knife through butter. Steve Heath should have put this tip in the bible. Would have saved me snapping a screwdriver and a spanner in half the other night.
Thanks for the suggestions,
Tim.
I was right that the pick axe would be too long to get under the bonnet (the spike end would be through it) but inspired by garden tool solutions I used a particularly heavy garden spade with a long shaft laid on it's side. The result was my three year old daughter could have removed the cap. It didn't require any effort it just turned like a hot knife through butter. Steve Heath should have put this tip in the bible. Would have saved me snapping a screwdriver and a spanner in half the other night.
Thanks for the suggestions,
Tim.
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h to get off. I replaced ours with a Steve Heath job which has an allen key head and a magnetic top.



