Swirl pot cap stuck
Swirl pot cap stuck
Author
Discussion

TimJM

Original Poster:

1,497 posts

239 months

Wednesday 31st August 2011
quotequote all
Hi,

I am currently replacing my rad and believe to refill the coolant I will need to top up from the swirl pot. The problem is the cap is really tight. At one point I thought it was welded on. Last night I managed to snap both a screwdriver and a spanner in half trying to remove it. I was about to put the end of a crowbar in it that should fit but I am worried about damaging the pot. Would some heat from a blow torch help or will that discolour the pot or bugger the cap (I have had blow torch disasters in the past).

Thanks.

Tim.


themac

103 posts

203 months

Wednesday 31st August 2011
quotequote all
Hi Tim

I have had this problem a few times
Trying to put loads of pressure in twisting the cap off can cause more damage.
Causing the cap and thread to bind up and go out of shape.
I dont know how far you have gone with your rad replacement, but in the past i have run the engine until everything has warmed up.
Turn off engine and wait until it has cooled down enough to unscrew cap.
I now make a point of checking the swirl pot levels and unscrewing the cap regulary.

Hope this helps (im no expert on mechanics etc, but if it helps then thats good)

Vince

Edited by themac on Wednesday 31st August 10:33

FlipFlopGriff

7,144 posts

276 months

Wednesday 31st August 2011
quotequote all
Assuming this is the brass topped jobbie it is a bh to get off. I replaced ours with a Steve Heath job which has an allen key head and a magnetic top.

If its the blue Audi/VW part then you're too heavy handed.

FFG

TimJM

Original Poster:

1,497 posts

239 months

Wednesday 31st August 2011
quotequote all
It's the brass jobbie - it is on very, very tight. But, a Steve Heath one should be on it's way to me now.

Tim.

Oh and yes, I am too heavy handed smash

FlipFlopGriff

7,144 posts

276 months

Wednesday 31st August 2011
quotequote all
Surprised thats censored!! Biatch.
FFG

Simon.b

1,230 posts

311 months

Wednesday 31st August 2011
quotequote all
I fitted a standard hex head brass radiator plug from B&Q with an O ring doesn’t need to be tight just enough to squash the O ring a bit.

Had mine like this for years now, never a problem.

Cheers,

Simon.

TimJM

Original Poster:

1,497 posts

239 months

Wednesday 31st August 2011
quotequote all
Was it less than £16 though......

Not to worry, the nearest B&Q is probably about £10 in petrol from here anyway. The way things were going last night I will probably need a new swirl pot to fit to my cap if the bugger doesn't budge later.

Tim.

BatleyBoy

2,036 posts

250 months

Wednesday 31st August 2011
quotequote all
TimJM said:
Was it less than £16 though......

Not to worry, the nearest B&Q is probably about £10 in petrol from here anyway. The way things were going last night I will probably need a new swirl pot to fit to my cap if the bugger doesn't budge later.

Tim.
It will come off. I had the same problem with mine.

You need a tool that will fit nice and tight into the slot on the head of the brass plug. I used one of those old fashioned bike spanners purchased at Halfords, but whatever you use it needs to fit tight and it needs to be rigid, something like a slotted screw driver will not do!

Then you need a large adjustable spanner to attach to the bike spanner (or similar) to give you some proper leverage.

Then cover up anything that may get damaged with something or another and apply some muscle. It will come loose.

When you put it back on I would put a bit of vasaline on the thread and don't over tighten it....just enough to avoid leaks.

Cheers. BB.

BliarOut

72,863 posts

268 months

Wednesday 31st August 2011
quotequote all
I use a pick axe to get mine off. Doddle. And yes, I'm deadly serious as it's the perfect long strong lever to fit in the slot smash

TimJM

Original Poster:

1,497 posts

239 months

Wednesday 31st August 2011
quotequote all
A pick axe!

I can see where you are coming from but I though the swirl pots themselves were easy to warp. I guess a pick axe would work if it fits under the bonnet, it would be close.

I think my strategy will be heat it up a little, put the end of a small crow bar in it hope for the best. If that fails then maybe I will resort to a pick axe.

Will be having a crack at it later once back from the pub.

Tim.

BliarOut

72,863 posts

268 months

Wednesday 31st August 2011
quotequote all
The beauty of the pick axe is that it's such a long lever you don't have to resort to shoving it, you just use the torque and it undoes easily biggrin

Englishman

2,253 posts

239 months

Wednesday 31st August 2011
quotequote all
TimJM said:
Would some heat from a blow torch help or will that discolour the pot or bugger the cap (I have had blow torch disasters in the past).
I had this issue too, with the cap being done up too tight originally. Managed with a long bar attached to a large headed screwdriver that fitted the slot nicely on it's side (if you see what I mean!). Lots of torque is what is needed, but hadn't thought of a pick axe I must admit. Personally I definitely avoid using a blow torch.

Simon.b

1,230 posts

311 months

Wednesday 31st August 2011
quotequote all
In my opinion, the problem with the standard cap is the O ring grove is too deep and/or the O ring is too small and it needs to be nipped up to get a seal. But with a radiator plug there is no groove so all you need to do is squash the O ring a bit to get a seal and it holds. So next time you need to remove the plug it isn’t tight at all and comes out real easy.

roseytvr

1,790 posts

207 months

Wednesday 31st August 2011
quotequote all
BliarOut said:
The beauty of the pick axe is that it's such a long lever you don't have to resort to shoving it, you just use the torque and it undoes easily biggrin
+1 or the axe!!

EGB

1,774 posts

186 months

Thursday 1st September 2011
quotequote all
I use a 5mm steel plate and a mole grip see pic. 5mm is a perfect slot fit and avoids burring the corners as experienced with screw drivers, pick axes etc. Use HMP grease on the rubber O ring, it helps future removal. Good advice about not doing up the rad nuts too tight, need a bit of 'float' using some rubber inserts. . Some aluminium rads are more prone to fracture if too tight.
Below the mole grip handle you can just see the siren bracket getting in the way. My siren removed. A bl...y nuisance. My meta now bridged.

BliarOut

72,863 posts

268 months

Thursday 1st September 2011
quotequote all
Ahem, the pickaxe most definitely doesn't burr the brass irked

EGB

1,774 posts

186 months

Thursday 1st September 2011
quotequote all
Rob.
I only used a pick axe on my my old Sinclair computer !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

BliarOut

72,863 posts

268 months

Thursday 1st September 2011
quotequote all
Ah yes, they do tend to burr Sinclair's... And Amstrad's too biggrin

TimJM

Original Poster:

1,497 posts

239 months

Friday 2nd September 2011
quotequote all
Well the cap is off.

I was right that the pick axe would be too long to get under the bonnet (the spike end would be through it) but inspired by garden tool solutions I used a particularly heavy garden spade with a long shaft laid on it's side. The result was my three year old daughter could have removed the cap. It didn't require any effort it just turned like a hot knife through butter. Steve Heath should have put this tip in the bible. Would have saved me snapping a screwdriver and a spanner in half the other night.

Thanks for the suggestions,

Tim.

EGB

1,774 posts

186 months

Friday 2nd September 2011
quotequote all
Well done. Check the threads on the cap and swirl pot. If ok it should screw easy by hand. It should not be necessary to use a pick axe, stilsons, and garden spades for this. Strewth! Don't send us a photo. Good luck.