Starting problem
Starting problem
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Discussion

Deadfast

Original Poster:

264 posts

195 months

Wednesday 31st August 2011
quotequote all
To cut a long story short…

On my V8S I have a new battery, alarm does what it normally does, fuel pump primes, duh-dunk. Nothing except the alarm then going off. Responds to the key fob. Try again. Duh-dunk.

Does this sound like the starter motor or a potential whole host of possible problems? Never had problems with the starter before…

Matt

Griffinr

1,017 posts

203 months

Wednesday 31st August 2011
quotequote all
Sounds like a bad connection either on the main earth from the battery to the chassis or the battery terminals.

Rob.

Deadfast

Original Poster:

264 posts

195 months

Wednesday 31st August 2011
quotequote all
OK, in which case, if I was to daisy chain an earth from another car (just join the black cable) do you think it would start?

Cheers.

Griffinr

1,017 posts

203 months

Wednesday 31st August 2011
quotequote all
Deadfast said:
OK, in which case, if I was to daisy chain an earth from another car (just join the black cable) do you think it would start?

Cheers.
You would have to connect the red cable across as well. I would just disconnect and clean up your battery terminals first and try that. Also worth checking the volt drop on the battery during starting as it could be an internal fault on the battery.

Rob.

FARKIT

150 posts

244 months

Wednesday 31st August 2011
quotequote all
you could also try using your negative jump lead from the earth on the starter to a clean earth somewhere else on the chassis.

Most common problem is a bad or dirty earth from the starter to the chassis...

Deadfast

Original Poster:

264 posts

195 months

Wednesday 31st August 2011
quotequote all
An earthing problem certainly makes sense, but where do I start looking?

What I didn’t say is that the car had been away at a reputable garage having the radiator replaced (again). It was running when I picked it up on Sunday, but failed to start when I stopped just a few miles down the road. The garage came out and finally got it going by putting in a “new” battery and attaching jump leads to it. It then ran fine all the way home. However, now it won’t start again. The only difference is that there is clearly more juice in the battery now than on Sunday.

I have booked on a basic car maintenance course this autumn, but until then (and probably still afterwards) I have to be treated as a complete numpty!

rolleyes

Thanks

Griffinr

1,017 posts

203 months

Wednesday 31st August 2011
quotequote all
I still think its a connection problem as you said your alarm sounds after a start attempt. This is usually because with a bad battery or earth connection the starter draws so much current it effectively disconnects the battery. As soon as you release the key the battery reconnects and the alarm goes off. If the battery was changed last week, make sure the terminals are still tight, I would be tempted to disconnect them and clean them anyway. Also disconnect and clean the connection between the black (negative) cable from the battery to the chassis.

Rob.

Deadfast

Original Poster:

264 posts

195 months

Wednesday 31st August 2011
quotequote all
Ah, I understand the alarm issue. I'll get the vaseline out as soon as I get home!

Thanks.

Deadfast

Original Poster:

264 posts

195 months

Wednesday 31st August 2011
quotequote all
Thinking about it, are there amy other chassis earth points other than from the battery? I'm sure I read about earthing points in front of the radiator. As the rad has just been out could that be the issue? If so, how do I get to those?

Thanks again.

Griffinr

1,017 posts

203 months

Wednesday 31st August 2011
quotequote all
Deadfast said:
Thinking about it, are there amy other chassis earth points other than from the battery? I'm sure I read about earthing points in front of the radiator. As the rad has just been out could that be the issue? If so, how do I get to those?

Thanks again.
There are several other earths, but none that are designed to take the starter current (probably 200 to 300 amps) Except the engine earth.

Rob.

(edited to add engine earth)

Edited by Griffinr on Wednesday 31st August 14:03

tvrgit

8,489 posts

281 months

Wednesday 31st August 2011
quotequote all
Griffinr said:
Deadfast said:
Thinking about it, are there amy other chassis earth points other than from the battery? I'm sure I read about earthing points in front of the radiator. As the rad has just been out could that be the issue? If so, how do I get to those?

Thanks again.
There are several other earths, but none that are designed to take the starter current (probably 200 to 300 amps)

Rob.
OP you need to think about this as a complete circuit. The current has to get

(i) from the battery (positive) to the starter motor via the solenoid.

(ii) through the motor itself - ie is the starter motor working properly?

(iii) from the motor back to the battery - ie the complete earth side of the circuit. That earth side is in 3 bits: the motor is earthed through the engine and gearbox unit. That in turn needs to be earthed to the chassis. AFAIK that main engine earth is under the gearbox - a braided earth strap to the chassis. Then the circuit between the chassis and the battery negative terminal needs to be good as well.

If there is a duff or dirty connection aanywhere along that whole supply and earth path, that will reduce the amount of current, and hence the efficiency of the starter motor.

As GRiffinr says, none of the other earth points are designed to take full-on starter motor current - it might TRY to work, but the thin wires at those other earths simply won't pass enough current.

FARKIT said:
you could also try using your negative jump lead from the earth on the starter to a clean earth somewhere else on the chassis.

Most common problem is a bad or dirty earth from the starter to the chassis...
As Farkit says, then, the best test to try first is a GOOD jump lead from a clean bit of the engine / gearbox, to a clean bit of the chassis (or even the battery negative terminal but make sure you don't create sparks if you do that). If the starter motor suddenly works fine, you know your problem is in the earth side of the circuit.

Deadfast

Original Poster:

264 posts

195 months

Wednesday 31st August 2011
quotequote all
Thanks guys. I really do come across as being very dim, but that's because I am...

Too dark now, but I'll be out there tomorrow.

rzrz

69 posts

312 months

Thursday 1st September 2011
quotequote all
Peak capacity of your new battery sufficient? If not I could imagine a voltage drop resulting in alarm going off.

Deadfast

Original Poster:

264 posts

195 months

Friday 2nd September 2011
quotequote all
Battery's good. Fiddled with a load of wires. Got the car to start. Then it wouldn't start, then it would. You get the picture. Question is...will it start in the morning...

Deadfast

Original Poster:

264 posts

195 months

Sunday 4th September 2011
quotequote all
...and the answer is no. Although now the alarm does not sound, all the indicators flash instead until the alarm buttin is pressed. Alarm problem maybe?

v8s4me

7,275 posts

248 months

Sunday 4th September 2011
quotequote all
Just a thought. Have you tried disconnecting the alarm/immobiliser? Mine plays up sometimes; I’ve got an isolator switch so I just turn to whole system off and leave it. When I do this, the central locking will only work when I turn the key in the door lock but that’s hardly an issue. Usually the alarm system resets itself after a while and all is OK until its next brain fart.

Deadfast

Original Poster:

264 posts

195 months

Sunday 4th September 2011
quotequote all
Mine's a Laserline system. I'm not sure how to disconnect. I suspect another visit to the autoelectrician is on the cards (if I can get it started again). Tax is up at the end of the month. I'm tempted to just put the car away now and forget about it.

Deadfast

Original Poster:

264 posts

195 months

Monday 5th September 2011
quotequote all
Mine's a 996v3. I have an LED/receptacle in the dash, but I didn't receive the keys with the car. I only have the remote controls. I can't find any other override switch, but then with the mish mash of wiring (and washer tube)...

Barkychoc

7,848 posts

233 months

Monday 5th September 2011
quotequote all
Matt the immobiliser could have got screwed up with all the battery changing business - it might be worth disconnecting the battery for 10 mins (Don't shut the boot!) and then reconnecting.

Does anyone know if these Laserline units have their own internal battery?

Deadfast

Original Poster:

264 posts

195 months

Monday 5th September 2011
quotequote all
Hi Chris, apparently they do. I found the instructions on t'internet. The batteries allow the siren to continue it's cycle if the alarm is triggered.