Clutch Slave Removal
Discussion
Rather than drill them (and then have a hell of a job getting the stub out) try driving them round with a small chisel against the outer edge of the head and a lump hammer. This has worked for me every time. After a few good clouts in the right direction they come undone and just unscrew. You do need to be a bit circumspect with the chisel until it has notched the screw head, you don't want it to slip.
ETA: But if its not leaking then leave well alone!
ETA: But if its not leaking then leave well alone!
Edited by Tanguero on Friday 2nd September 17:17
Mr Cerbera said:
I may have misunderstood the photo but is that bellhousing still attached to the engine ?
If it is then whip it off and get a good angle at those screws
It is off the engine, and hopeful the twist in the hex bit shows how much effort I've used to try to undo them using 1/2" drive 20" bar.If it is then whip it off and get a good angle at those screws

Buy yourself a centre punch and just tap it round. It is the easiest way to do it and once loose you can use the Allen head driver again.
I've drilled and tapped them round with a punch before and the punch is by far the best way to do it.
Make sure you thread lock the new ones in also, just a dash mind....
I've drilled and tapped them round with a punch before and the punch is by far the best way to do it.
Make sure you thread lock the new ones in also, just a dash mind....

ridds said:
Make sure you thread lock the new ones in also, just a dash mind.... 
Hmn...I'm gonna ask why as when you look at refitting the G/Bx, surely the plate that is visible fills the recess where the screws are, therefore even if they came loose, they can't unscrew much as they'd hit that plate ???
When I worked on aircraft we got this all the time. We would use a rivet gun and something called a breaker bar which had the socket on the end. As you sent vibrations through the bolt you applied pressure to undo it. maybe 1 in a 100 didnt come out and they had to be drilled.
If you wanna bring the bell housing to chelmsford I will rattle them out for you.
If you wanna bring the bell housing to chelmsford I will rattle them out for you.
Extra 300 Driver said:
When I worked on aircraft we got this all the time. We would use a rivet gun and something called a breaker bar which had the socket on the end. As you sent vibrations through the bolt you applied pressure to undo it. maybe 1 in a 100 didnt come out and they had to be drilled.
If you wanna bring the bell housing to chelmsford I will rattle them out for you.
That's very generous of you. I will try a little heat first, but if that doesn't work I'll get in contact - Thanks.If you wanna bring the bell housing to chelmsford I will rattle them out for you.
Instead of applying a lot of steady prolonged pressure - that's twisted the allen bit which shows how tight they are - you need to use shock tactics.
Get a strong extension bar on the end of the the socket handle, hold the bit in nice and tight and steady, apply a good amount of pressure to the extension bar, then get someone to hit the end of the extension tube sharp and hard with a big lump hammer, one sharp HARD hit. It's always worked for me.
Get a strong extension bar on the end of the the socket handle, hold the bit in nice and tight and steady, apply a good amount of pressure to the extension bar, then get someone to hit the end of the extension tube sharp and hard with a big lump hammer, one sharp HARD hit. It's always worked for me.
JensenA said:
Instead of applying a lot of steady prolonged pressure - that's twisted the allen bit which shows how tight they are - you need to use shock tactics.
Get a strong extension bar on the end of the the socket handle, hold the bit in nice and tight and steady, apply a good amount of pressure to the extension bar, then get someone to hit the end of the extension tube sharp and hard with a big lump hammer, one sharp HARD hit. It's always worked for me.
This is a great method, I have worked on coaches and when a nut or bolt seizes and it's head is 30mm you know it! We used to used the power bar to put pressure on and whack it with a hammer as you say! I also have some screwdrivers that were designed for this and they are remarkable, my mate was gobsmacked that I was undoing the screw he couldn't with the same screwdriver!Get a strong extension bar on the end of the the socket handle, hold the bit in nice and tight and steady, apply a good amount of pressure to the extension bar, then get someone to hit the end of the extension tube sharp and hard with a big lump hammer, one sharp HARD hit. It's always worked for me.
Extra 300 Driver said:
When I worked on aircraft we got this all the time. We would use a rivet gun and something called a breaker bar which had the socket on the end. As you sent vibrations through the bolt you applied pressure to undo it. maybe 1 in a 100 didnt come out and they had to be drilled.
If you wanna bring the bell housing to chelmsford I will rattle them out for you.
Thanks for reminding me that I have access to an electric impact wrench. This removed three of them fairly quickly, but the forth isn't interested and the bit has sheared....If you wanna bring the bell housing to chelmsford I will rattle them out for you.
The corrosion that was holding them is just around the countersink area, that's all.
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