Tamora major oil leak!!

[T66ORA]

Came in from a spirited blat tonight, parked up could smell oil,opens bonnet to find oil every where It looks like the oil pressure sender, surprise surprise.
Where do they leak from? Is it a question of resealing all the pipe work in and out of the unit? Or is it the plastic unit itself that fails? I was going to exhibit my car tomorrow can i temporary patch it up do you think?
I see they have a modified unit now at a bargain £70 What vehicle has this modded unit come from? Hopefully i can get it cheaper. avoiding the usual TVR tax £70 for a oil pressure sender unit is just extracting the urine IMO.

On a separate note how long does it take to run in T1Rs? My Tam has been handling like a pig since i changed the rear tyres recently,( 255/35 running 24 psi then 22 nitrogen filled) Feels like my early Tuscan now, you know the feeling, it wants to through you into the nearest ditch not fun when playing with all the bikers

[T5SOR]

I always work on the rule of thumb that tyres take a few hundred miles to be run in (just to be safe).

[RedSpike66]

I found T1R's take longer than T1S's to wear in - at least 500 miles. I think I also rode them a little higher (24-26psi) pressure wise although never nitrogen filled them.

[shep1001]

They leak from the alloy block they screw into or the take-off hose that goes to the sender. The modded version is a two wire type so you can't just replce it without a mod for the wiring (unless its been done already). They can be a sod to remove but it can be done without taking the airbox off.

I would support the alloy block by removing it from its body fixing before unscrewing it so as not to snap where it is secured to the body if you need togive it some to unscrew it.

15 min job if all goes well....

[T66ORA]

shep1001 said:

They leak from the alloy block they screw into or the take-off hose that goes to the sender. The modded version is a two wire type so you can't just replce it without a mod for the wiring (unless its been done already). They can be a sod to remove but it can be done without taking the airbox off.

I would support the alloy block by removing it from its body fixing before unscrewing it so as not to snap where it is secured to the body if you need togive it some to unscrew it.

15 min job if all goes well....

Thanks Andy, it seems i am fortunate that my sender is forward of the air box,on the inner wing near the power steering pump! Can`t make out were the leak is coming from, it looks like there is a split near the blade connector on the end of the unit, but i could be wrong? If the weather picks up i will remove it and try sealing before "investing" in the £70 for a new one.
Sods law says, you have the week off,it`s blowing a gale outside, you have a oil leak, and your new tyres make your car handle like a pig!

[Geoff Ashcroft]

Put some thread sealant (not tape) on the fittings when you refit.

Tyres - scrubbed in my new T1Rs on the way up to Oulton Park last year on a 150 mile trip and all was fine. Did you go up a size on the rears? That may explain your tricky handling.... And check the date stamp on the tyres to make sure you've not bought old rubber (hard to believe).

[spiceman]

I had the exactly the same problem, plus the alloy block is very prone to expanding where the sender screws in and I found that using tape on the threads bungs up the chamber inside the block. I went for the steel replacement from clever Trevor as my block was damaged from over tightening. No need for tape with that sensor simply screws in and simple to remove and replace.
Working a treat now!