VW Golf GTi Mk 3 - Thoughts?
Discussion
For example:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1997-VOLKSWAGEN-GOLF-GTI...
I had a Mk 2 GTi as a lad and the Mrs currently has a Mk 4 TDi (150bhp) - but I seem to remember the Mk 3 Golfs just got panned, especially the GTi.
My question is this: I quite fancy getting something to strip out and use for racing. Is the chassis / engine in the Mk 3 any good? I suspect it is the same 8v 1.8 lump that went in the Mk 2 GTi but could be wrong.
Seems one can pick one up pretty cheap, like.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1997-VOLKSWAGEN-GOLF-GTI...
I had a Mk 2 GTi as a lad and the Mrs currently has a Mk 4 TDi (150bhp) - but I seem to remember the Mk 3 Golfs just got panned, especially the GTi.
My question is this: I quite fancy getting something to strip out and use for racing. Is the chassis / engine in the Mk 3 any good? I suspect it is the same 8v 1.8 lump that went in the Mk 2 GTi but could be wrong.
Seems one can pick one up pretty cheap, like.
They are far from terrible cars. Yes the 8v is slow and doesnt really deserve to be called a gti but they do handle well, are very practical and are fairly efficient.
Try to get a latr one 95-on as this will have the later engine management revisions and wont be quite as rust prone as the earlier models.
Parts are dirt cheap new and you`ll also find 3-4 in any scrapyard for anything you cant get new. And they are very easy to work on
Try to get a latr one 95-on as this will have the later engine management revisions and wont be quite as rust prone as the earlier models.
Parts are dirt cheap new and you`ll also find 3-4 in any scrapyard for anything you cant get new. And they are very easy to work on
I have a 1996 (97 MY) 8v GTI which had the bigger Brembos on the front. It's not fast fast but like any relatively light compact car you can actually see out of, it is extremely exploitable and can be punted with precision and you go fast by never going slow. The gearbox linkage, once the rubber ball thing under the bonnet is re-greased (mine was terrible when I bought it), is pretty good too. It is ultimately prone to understeer but it is reasonably tough.
I had a good cross-country blat with a new 3-series once and he couldn't lose it (debadged so this doesn't mean a great deal but it handled the corners with equal aplomb). I enjoy driving it more than my new Mondeo which feels huge in comparison.
Not the best built - rust is an issue - I've replaced exhaust back box, rear discs, bearings and pads and it's had new front springs after one snapped, an ABS sensor and it had to have £200 welding on it at the last MOT but so far as a daily snotter I've not felt compelled to change it as I can't help thinking I'll only get something far worse. Clutch cable went too and the new cable pinged out of a slowly spreading clutch arm nipple retainer but a B&Q repair washer cut and bent round soon had that sorted for a few pence. It's also been in a collison with a Corsa and only suffered a dented front wing and needed a new headlamp for about £30 so quite stalwart.
Everything works on it too bar a rear door electric lock and the alarm (you have to actually use the key). Drips a teensy bit of oil from the cam gasket (can't be arsed taking it apart) but I've had it nearly 3 years now and only replaced the oil/fliter once a year and the air filter in 2009...always starts first time too. Only maintenance it's really needed was tightening the squealing PAS belt and spraying every pipe to cure an initial stalling propensity (now cured).
I had a good cross-country blat with a new 3-series once and he couldn't lose it (debadged so this doesn't mean a great deal but it handled the corners with equal aplomb). I enjoy driving it more than my new Mondeo which feels huge in comparison.
Not the best built - rust is an issue - I've replaced exhaust back box, rear discs, bearings and pads and it's had new front springs after one snapped, an ABS sensor and it had to have £200 welding on it at the last MOT but so far as a daily snotter I've not felt compelled to change it as I can't help thinking I'll only get something far worse. Clutch cable went too and the new cable pinged out of a slowly spreading clutch arm nipple retainer but a B&Q repair washer cut and bent round soon had that sorted for a few pence. It's also been in a collison with a Corsa and only suffered a dented front wing and needed a new headlamp for about £30 so quite stalwart.
Everything works on it too bar a rear door electric lock and the alarm (you have to actually use the key). Drips a teensy bit of oil from the cam gasket (can't be arsed taking it apart) but I've had it nearly 3 years now and only replaced the oil/fliter once a year and the air filter in 2009...always starts first time too. Only maintenance it's really needed was tightening the squealing PAS belt and spraying every pipe to cure an initial stalling propensity (now cured).
Thanks to all.
By the sounds of it I reckon the 16v is the way to go, possibly the VR6 if one can be had for reasonable cash.
As it would be for fun (racing) and not a snotter I reckon I'd be taking about 75kg of weight out of it too so should run a bit better
Cheers, I'll get back to shopping for one...
By the sounds of it I reckon the 16v is the way to go, possibly the VR6 if one can be had for reasonable cash.
As it would be for fun (racing) and not a snotter I reckon I'd be taking about 75kg of weight out of it too so should run a bit better
Cheers, I'll get back to shopping for one...
I've had 2 x 8v in the past. For cheap money they're worth looking at. As has been said, rust is the killer, especially on the doors. 40mpg is easily achievable, and whilst the 8v shouldn't really be called a GTi it isn't a bad car.
I've read on here and other forums, and experienced it myself, a misfire that crops up every now and again. Never heard of a cure for it
They're well built inside as well. If you can find a decent 16v one, that's what I'd go for. The VR6 will be heavier and thirstier, but will obviously sound nicer!
I've read on here and other forums, and experienced it myself, a misfire that crops up every now and again. Never heard of a cure for it
They're well built inside as well. If you can find a decent 16v one, that's what I'd go for. The VR6 will be heavier and thirstier, but will obviously sound nicer!
Iirc 16v's an easily be modded to 160-165bhp using a KR cam (from the old 1.8 16v). This brings them much closer to the VR6 in performance, especially as they are slightly lighter, but without the nice noise.
Under-rated would be the beat way to describe them, I'd say. They suffer in comparison to a Mk2, but most hatches of that era do: extra weight started to kill the category.
Under-rated would be the beat way to describe them, I'd say. They suffer in comparison to a Mk2, but most hatches of that era do: extra weight started to kill the category.
I've got a 16v, off the road at the moment while I get handbrake and driver's window motor fixed before I sell it. I think a 16v would make a reasonable track car, it has good, adjustable balance - as long as it likes the tyres its on - and the engine is strong. I don't know how the 8v and VR6 compare, I haven't driven either, but the 16v is only just quick enough to be convincing as a hot hatch so I have my doubts that the 8v would really cut it, performance wise.
I've considered using it as a trackday toy as I don't need it as a daily anymore but if I was going to have a toy car I'd rather go the whole hog and get the classic Alfa I've always wanted.
I've considered using it as a trackday toy as I don't need it as a daily anymore but if I was going to have a toy car I'd rather go the whole hog and get the classic Alfa I've always wanted.
I have had the 16v and the 8v and as a car they are great... the 16v obviously is the one to go for if its a GTi you want. However I would suggest you look at the VR6, as they have more power and a great sound track!
The mk3 was a bit of a barge.. so suspension is a must, or I would personally just go for a Corrado Vr6. Dont get the 16v raddo as it used a different, less powerful version compared to the golf.
The mk3 was a bit of a barge.. so suspension is a must, or I would personally just go for a Corrado Vr6. Dont get the 16v raddo as it used a different, less powerful version compared to the golf.
Half the engines missing IMO.
16 Valves are fine, but don't rev up that well.
So cam one of them.
The VR6's are fine for the ski run down to Italy on the Autoroutes, but aren't really good track cars without a set of very expensive coil overs, and even then the engines just a bit heavy.
Give the eight valve a wide berth, name trading by VW
16 Valves are fine, but don't rev up that well.
So cam one of them.
The VR6's are fine for the ski run down to Italy on the Autoroutes, but aren't really good track cars without a set of very expensive coil overs, and even then the engines just a bit heavy.
Give the eight valve a wide berth, name trading by VW
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