Discussion
What's the consensus on the best second hand 7-esque purchase?
Want something i can fit a Duratec to easily. Will a Tiger do the job?
Having silly ideas about getting something with the same go as an R400 or is this simply not gonna be possible (without spending a fortune) due to extra weight etc?
Aiming about £5k for the initial purchase.
Want something i can fit a Duratec to easily. Will a Tiger do the job?
Having silly ideas about getting something with the same go as an R400 or is this simply not gonna be possible (without spending a fortune) due to extra weight etc?
Aiming about £5k for the initial purchase.
a tiger will do teh job although someone will be along in a mo to suggest alternatives....a tiger cat weighs in at about 630kg stripped, i guess the r400 is best part of 100kg lighter, so power wise depends on what output from teh duratec....an pinto powered tiger should be between £4000-5500. That said power isnt everything, its about driving ability and handling......having driven a Superlight R its chalk and cheese to any of the other 7'eques that i've been in, although the owner kindly pointed out that on track my tiger set up would no doubt be good.
Anyway, if its track performance then going for power is fine, if its road based fun 170bhp+ in a tiger or similar will be good enough and will put on a good showing against a caterham( unless teh latter is being fully driven!)
Anyway, if its track performance then going for power is fine, if its road based fun 170bhp+ in a tiger or similar will be good enough and will put on a good showing against a caterham( unless teh latter is being fully driven!)
OlberJ said:
What's the set up with each model then or is it just whatever you choose when you build it?
The 7s that use the Sierra diff, shafts and uprights are not all the same. Most use those bits mounted into a 'spaceframe' with bespoke wishbones or similar. Some of the Tigers use the whole Sierra sub-assembly which includes a lot of heavy metal which is unnecessary in a lightweight car. Most of the 'Locost' based cars which are independent use the former.OlberJ said:
Christ they're cheap for the basic kit.
What do you need on top of that, engine, ECU, gearbox, diff, driveshafts? What sort of cost will there be in those parts roughly?
Get in touch with Richard at GBS /google same and get their website , there is acons siderable amount of in put needed or they will do turnkeys to spec .I have no cons with them only as acustomer for parts for my RH S7 . THE RHOCAR website has lots of input from Zero builders mild to wild HTH What do you need on top of that, engine, ECU, gearbox, diff, driveshafts? What sort of cost will there be in those parts roughly?
I haven't got one, but I'd second the RAW/Sylva Striker. If you can fit in it (I can't!) it is a great chassis by all accounts and very neatly designed 
If you've got a tight budget, I think you'll get best value by buying a second hand ready built car. Ideally, make sure it has an engine you're happy to keep. It isn't cheap replacing engines once you've had to source all the parts and had an exhaust made up.
If you've got a tight budget, I think you'll get best value by buying a second hand ready built car. Ideally, make sure it has an engine you're happy to keep. It isn't cheap replacing engines once you've had to source all the parts and had an exhaust made up.
slomax said:
For a budget 7 I would definitely be looking very closely at the raw/sylva striker.
Absolutely correct. The Sylva Stiker was a superb car and Jeremy Phillips excelled himself with this design. I have had several over the years and with a good Duratec turning out 200BHP plus this would be a really dark horse.
Its also a real budget buy currently these cars are genuinely outstanding kit cars and capable of vastly higher performance than the original drive train offered.
The car continues I think under the Raw brand.
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