1) Z4M Roadster vs Coupe and what to watch out for
Discussion
The other half wants a sports car - not as high maintance as the TVR (despite she likes driving it she cante be a
d to check fluids and warm up meticously every time and also fails to cope with cerain niggles aeh features...
A SLK was considered too civilized (and the AMG out of reach...) the boxter does not appeal to the eye and the 911 not to the wallet - a recent track experience with M3 was favourable enyed and that brings us here (yes different chassis and engine) but the Z4 M cars seem to be good value for money and look ggod to
Apart from the obvious diffeerence roof off or not how do they dynamically compare???
Not so much track but on a "proper" b road blast
Is the setup the same??
Maintainance cost - simlar or different?
What to wantch out for in the service history (I heard VANOS could be a problem on earlier M cars???)
Are they ok with a more female aproach i.e. fill up petrol, service regularely and otherwise only do something when a light pops up??
Thanks
d to check fluids and warm up meticously every time and also fails to cope with cerain niggles aeh features...A SLK was considered too civilized (and the AMG out of reach...) the boxter does not appeal to the eye and the 911 not to the wallet - a recent track experience with M3 was favourable enyed and that brings us here (yes different chassis and engine) but the Z4 M cars seem to be good value for money and look ggod to
Apart from the obvious diffeerence roof off or not how do they dynamically compare???
Not so much track but on a "proper" b road blast
Is the setup the same??
Maintainance cost - simlar or different?
What to wantch out for in the service history (I heard VANOS could be a problem on earlier M cars???)
Are they ok with a more female aproach i.e. fill up petrol, service regularely and otherwise only do something when a light pops up??
Thanks
You really need to do a search (advanced) there are tons of threads with lost of posts from custard, self etc etc.
Your questions >>> my views....
Apart from the obvious diffeerence roof off or not how do they dynamically compare???
Not so much track but on a "proper" b road blast >>>> are you a driving god who can wring the last tenths out of car? if not then no difference.
Is the setup the same?? >>>> largely to 98% of users.
Maintainance cost - simlar or different? >>>>> same.
What to wantch out for in the service history (I heard VANOS could be a problem on earlier M cars???) >>>> the usuals ..1200 mile, meticulous maintenance, warranty... don't believe VANOS is issue and I've an 06 car one of first now at 62K miles.
Are they ok with a more female aproach i.e. fill up petrol, service regularely and otherwise only do something when a light pops up?? >>>> its a BMW.
Your questions >>> my views....
Apart from the obvious diffeerence roof off or not how do they dynamically compare???
Not so much track but on a "proper" b road blast >>>> are you a driving god who can wring the last tenths out of car? if not then no difference.
Is the setup the same?? >>>> largely to 98% of users.
Maintainance cost - simlar or different? >>>>> same.
What to wantch out for in the service history (I heard VANOS could be a problem on earlier M cars???) >>>> the usuals ..1200 mile, meticulous maintenance, warranty... don't believe VANOS is issue and I've an 06 car one of first now at 62K miles.
Are they ok with a more female aproach i.e. fill up petrol, service regularely and otherwise only do something when a light pops up?? >>>> its a BMW.
physprof said:
You really need to do a search (advanced) there are tons of threads with lost of posts from custard, self etc etc.
Your questions >>> my views....
Apart from the obvious diffeerence roof off or not how do they dynamically compare???
Not so much track but on a "proper" b road blast >>>> are you a driving god who can wring the last tenths out of car? if not then no difference.
Is the setup the same?? >>>> largely to 98% of users.
Maintainance cost - simlar or different? >>>>> same.
What to wantch out for in the service history (I heard VANOS could be a problem on earlier M cars???) >>>> the usuals ..1200 mile, meticulous maintenance, warranty... don't believe VANOS is issue and I've an 06 car one of first now at 62K miles.
Are they ok with a more female aproach i.e. fill up petrol, service regularely and otherwise only do something when a light pops up?? >>>> its a BMW.
That pretty much covers it all.Your questions >>> my views....
Apart from the obvious diffeerence roof off or not how do they dynamically compare???
Not so much track but on a "proper" b road blast >>>> are you a driving god who can wring the last tenths out of car? if not then no difference.
Is the setup the same?? >>>> largely to 98% of users.
Maintainance cost - simlar or different? >>>>> same.
What to wantch out for in the service history (I heard VANOS could be a problem on earlier M cars???) >>>> the usuals ..1200 mile, meticulous maintenance, warranty... don't believe VANOS is issue and I've an 06 car one of first now at 62K miles.
Are they ok with a more female aproach i.e. fill up petrol, service regularely and otherwise only do something when a light pops up?? >>>> its a BMW.
Vanos fault was only an issue with E46 M3's up to the 02 plate. A number of modifications were made to stop the fault from occuring. All Z4m's start at 06 plate. Same engine as E46, apart from the exhaust. Will feel quicker as it's is a bit lighter and very tight. Hard to explain but it's a very focused car and is setup that way. A number of other parts were taken from the CSL.
I only drive mine wknds and sorn it over the Autumn winter months even though it's a coupe. Be warned it likes to driven hard so watch your liscence.
Visually stunning car. Only needs genuine CSL's wheels to complete it. Will be hooning over Europe with it next year. Mines is sorned/garaged already as I've not had the time to use it much this year. It's only got 6k on the clock.
I only drive mine wknds and sorn it over the Autumn winter months even though it's a coupe. Be warned it likes to driven hard so watch your liscence.
Visually stunning car. Only needs genuine CSL's wheels to complete it. Will be hooning over Europe with it next year. Mines is sorned/garaged already as I've not had the time to use it much this year. It's only got 6k on the clock.
compared with a boxster, it is a much tougher drive in daily usage.
it'll shine when the engine is screaming and you are wringing the car and trying to keep it out of lock stops, otherwise, gear shift is notchy, (especially 1-2), accelerator is jumpy (even without sport mode) and steering unnecessarily heavy... it also has very little feel (worse than the z3m and nowhere in sight compared to a boxster).
as a daily driver, it is punishing compared to a boxster. on a track day, it prolly is just as fun and keeps you on your toes. The engine is magnificent (simply blows any boxster,911 except the GTXs). I always wonder why folks change the exhaust as it interfers with the engine noise... maybe the induction kit is ok.
in summary, worse as a daily drive, but more special, ok as a wkn drive especially if you tend to drive hard. otherwise you are just buying to look less ordinary, at a cheaper price (lower image) and a terrible everyday cruiser.
it'll shine when the engine is screaming and you are wringing the car and trying to keep it out of lock stops, otherwise, gear shift is notchy, (especially 1-2), accelerator is jumpy (even without sport mode) and steering unnecessarily heavy... it also has very little feel (worse than the z3m and nowhere in sight compared to a boxster).
as a daily driver, it is punishing compared to a boxster. on a track day, it prolly is just as fun and keeps you on your toes. The engine is magnificent (simply blows any boxster,911 except the GTXs). I always wonder why folks change the exhaust as it interfers with the engine noise... maybe the induction kit is ok.
in summary, worse as a daily drive, but more special, ok as a wkn drive especially if you tend to drive hard. otherwise you are just buying to look less ordinary, at a cheaper price (lower image) and a terrible everyday cruiser.
compared to the M3 (e90 or e46) the z4 feels lighter, pointier, faster and fightier.
rolls alot less when pushing on
but as a trade off looses the M3's "fast over any surface" ride.
my 60 year (non-petrolhead)old mum drives a Cayman (slowly), she doesn't like driving the Z4M, it too difficult.
they are like a TVR that doesn't self destruct sat on your drive.
Custard
rolls alot less when pushing on
but as a trade off looses the M3's "fast over any surface" ride.
my 60 year (non-petrolhead)old mum drives a Cayman (slowly), she doesn't like driving the Z4M, it too difficult.
they are like a TVR that doesn't self destruct sat on your drive.
Custard
khooni said:
compared with a boxster, it is a much tougher drive in daily usage.
in summary, worse as a daily drive, but more special, ok as a wkn drive especially if you tend to drive hard. otherwise you are just buying to look less ordinary, at a cheaper price (lower image) and a terrible everyday cruiser.
Disagree here. It's a great cruiser I've only had mine 6 months but it's done europe and 4 days crusing around the Lake district and Yorkshire with the missus on board. It also works fine as a daily driver to the dockyard I work at in Devon and it's no worse a ride than my 323F Sport over the railway lines and pot holes on site.in summary, worse as a daily drive, but more special, ok as a wkn drive especially if you tend to drive hard. otherwise you are just buying to look less ordinary, at a cheaper price (lower image) and a terrible everyday cruiser.
custardkid said:
They are like a TVR that doesn't self destruct sat on your drive.
Agree with that I thought long and hard about a TVR I love driving them, once I drove a Z4M it was much easier to shake off the TVR bug.I will add that the car is not a doddle to drive quickly. It takes time to learn and it will scare you if you take liberties. It's very direct. Around Spa it's was as quick as any Porsche other than the track specials. If you want to cruise down to the pub on a summers evening or accross Europe, it will do 55mph-75mph all day and 30+ mpg without insisting you accelerate to crazy speeds out of every corner like some cars do. You have the choice.
Edited by BuzyG on Wednesday 14th September 19:28
Edited by BuzyG on Wednesday 14th September 19:37
i would tend to agree with you if i had never had a boxster that it was a great daily driver.. Never driven a TVR but there is no contest as to drivability compared to a boxster. But the boxster was never conceived in the same light as a z4m, the z4m is meant to be more rugged and a more difficult drive. Read : more challenging. Great if you are into that sort of thing.
however, as an equally competent sports car with better daily manners, the boxster S has to be the better choice if those were the only criteria.. This is not to say the z4m doesn't win in other areas (such as looks and exclusivity) but only in the 2 above mentioned categories.
in short, 2 different cars for 2 different target customers. drive them back to back when you get a chance and you'll see what i mean.
however, as an equally competent sports car with better daily manners, the boxster S has to be the better choice if those were the only criteria.. This is not to say the z4m doesn't win in other areas (such as looks and exclusivity) but only in the 2 above mentioned categories.
in short, 2 different cars for 2 different target customers. drive them back to back when you get a chance and you'll see what i mean.
I was also going to add that the z4m unlike 1M, M3 is designed as a pure sports car ie no back seats, less sound insulation and much more difficult to drive
The fact that it requires man-handling rather than being easy to drive with an M3 is a design feature of the car so that it doesn't cannibalise m3 sales I think. Indeed, this is an appealing feature of the z4m. It is unlikely that this will be replicated by the now hardtop z4 even if they do a new z4m because of the hardtop. Engineering a separate model ala SLK black series seems improbable (just how many did mercedes sold?)
The significance of the last great inline 6 N.A engine by M division ie S54 in the z4m is also very significant. as noted the sound track is awesome for such a small cart and completely dominates the car.
In total, it is a special, crazy car just not a great daily driver. But as a special drive, it can make a lot of sense. I know... I bought one in addition to a boxster spyder.
I think these cars are super cheap now given the abundance of low mileage cars coming on the mkt and make a great steal for anyone interested in one of these beasts....
remeber we may never see another reasonably priced yet characterful small 2 seater from M division with such focus.
The fact that it requires man-handling rather than being easy to drive with an M3 is a design feature of the car so that it doesn't cannibalise m3 sales I think. Indeed, this is an appealing feature of the z4m. It is unlikely that this will be replicated by the now hardtop z4 even if they do a new z4m because of the hardtop. Engineering a separate model ala SLK black series seems improbable (just how many did mercedes sold?)
The significance of the last great inline 6 N.A engine by M division ie S54 in the z4m is also very significant. as noted the sound track is awesome for such a small cart and completely dominates the car.
In total, it is a special, crazy car just not a great daily driver. But as a special drive, it can make a lot of sense. I know... I bought one in addition to a boxster spyder.
I think these cars are super cheap now given the abundance of low mileage cars coming on the mkt and make a great steal for anyone interested in one of these beasts....
remeber we may never see another reasonably priced yet characterful small 2 seater from M division with such focus.
Edited by khooni on Thursday 15th September 16:27
khooni said:
i would tend to agree with you if i had never had a boxster that it was a great daily driver.. Never driven a TVR but there is no contest as to drivability compared to a boxster. But the boxster was never conceived in the same light as a z4m, the z4m is meant to be more rugged and a more difficult drive. Read : more challenging. Great if you are into that sort of thing.
however, as an equally competent sports car with better daily manners, the boxster S has to be the better choice if those were the only criteria.. This is not to say the z4m doesn't win in other areas (such as looks and exclusivity) but only in the 2 above mentioned categories.
in short, 2 different cars for 2 different target customers. drive them back to back when you get a chance and you'll see what i mean.
I agree, sort ofhowever, as an equally competent sports car with better daily manners, the boxster S has to be the better choice if those were the only criteria.. This is not to say the z4m doesn't win in other areas (such as looks and exclusivity) but only in the 2 above mentioned categories.
in short, 2 different cars for 2 different target customers. drive them back to back when you get a chance and you'll see what i mean.
My boxster s never thrilled in the same way my Z4MC did. It was too refined and felt easy to drive fast, but as a drivers car the z4mc creamed it for involvement and appeal. My wife prefered the boxster s and I can see why, it flowed down lumpy roads and is a very balanced package.The Z4MC was sometimes too firm to be relaxing day to day and at low speed speeds can be crashy on broken roads. However once up to speed the z4mc is riotous fun in a way the boxster s could never be, as a week end car the Z4MC is hard to touch for the money/fun/reliability stakes
I use my z4m everyday and I've also used it for plenty of Euro trips where I've driven for a few hours at a time no problem. The clutch can be a bit tricky as first; visibility isn't the best and the ride is on the firm side (as you would expect for a car like this) but it's nothing too bad that you can't use it as an everyday car. I've driven a boxster and while I found it slightly easier to drive it's also much more boring
izz4mc said:
I use my z4m everyday and I've also used it for plenty of Euro trips where I've driven for a few hours at a time no problem. The clutch can be a bit tricky as first; visibility isn't the best and the ride is on the firm side (as you would expect for a car like this) but it's nothing too bad that you can't use it as an everyday car. I've driven a boxster and while I found it slightly easier to drive it's also much more boring
I have exactly the same experience with my Z4M and the same experience with the Boxter... I don't use the car on a daily base, but sometimes I leave my daily car (325i touring) at home and I want to take the Z4M to work.Z4M roadster vs Z4M coupe. It's common knowledge that the Z4M Coupe looks better then the Roadster and that the Coupe is more exclusive then the roadster... I own a Roadster and IMO the Coupe does look better, but when driving with the top down the Roadster is more fun for me. If I bought a Z4M coupe then I had a small unpractical sports car, if I bought the roadster then I also had a small unpractical sports car but with extra added value of also having a convertible :wink:
I bought mine as a second sun and fun car that will also do some track days. The Z4M is a great track car that you can use everyday. The standard brakes are not so good on a track. Get a brake upgrade or a BBK (like AP). The rest of the car is amazing (considering the price they go for these days).
Boxter S vs Z4M
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0FTcr2IFeg0
Not much to add, except to add to the above... The coupe is definitely much better looking, and much rarer. That's coming from a Roadster owner.
If you can afford the extra cash, and don't mind missing out on the open top experience, get the Coupe. It feels more special. That's coming from a previous Coupe owner.
If you can afford the extra cash, and don't mind missing out on the open top experience, get the Coupe. It feels more special. That's coming from a previous Coupe owner.
Recently learnt that some mid production S54 engines across the range of cars they were installed in have had problems with loose camshaft bolts. Some even shearing off... Not a problem recognised and so subject to recall from what I can see.
http://www.zpost.com/forums/showthread.php?t=39339...
Loose Engine mounting bolts feature as an issue in some threads as well
Before I'm accused of scare-mongering I'd agree and say that the instances are rare enough that it's something that owners will worry about if it happens or take out a warranty for peace of mind or get sorted as a precaution if the car is a keeper. (Just like the bearing shell issue on Z3M S54s)
http://www.zpost.com/forums/showthread.php?t=39339...
Loose Engine mounting bolts feature as an issue in some threads as well
Before I'm accused of scare-mongering I'd agree and say that the instances are rare enough that it's something that owners will worry about if it happens or take out a warranty for peace of mind or get sorted as a precaution if the car is a keeper. (Just like the bearing shell issue on Z3M S54s)
BMW Z4 M Checkpoints
• Engine
Check the service book for the initial, 1200-mile service. This is where the fluids are changed from the run-in spec to the normal spec, and if it wasn’t done then serious wear could result.
Curiously, the throttle system can go out of tune. Resetting it can improve throttle response and its really simple to do: turn the ignition on and wait for 10 seconds, then turn it off for 10 seconds, then turn it on again for 10, then start the engine.
The crankcase ventilation oil separator assembly can clog with sludge; in extreme cases this can lead to combustible vapour building up in the intake and going bang in a big way when you next start the car. The valve is fitted to many BMWs and is one of the most ‘popular’ replacement parts!
• Transmission
If there is a rattle when you switch the engine off, which doesn’t happen if you have the clutch down, then this is probably the clutch springs. If this is the case, then it’s fairly normal and nothing to worry about. Shift from first to second are notchy.
• Body and chassis
Your Z4 M should come with two keys, so check that they both operate the remote central locking. If not, then it is a main dealer job to get them reprogrammed.
Be aware that the strut braces can crack near the strut tops – it’s actually the weld on the body that breaks so replacement is expensive – so check this area carefully.
• Brakes and suspension
The road springs have been known to snap at 35-45k, so check the car sits level and there are no rattles from the corners when driving. Some owners fit uprated Eibach or H&R springs.
Creaking from the rear can be worn anti-roll bar bushes, but they are reasonably cheap to replace.
• Engine
Check the service book for the initial, 1200-mile service. This is where the fluids are changed from the run-in spec to the normal spec, and if it wasn’t done then serious wear could result.
Curiously, the throttle system can go out of tune. Resetting it can improve throttle response and its really simple to do: turn the ignition on and wait for 10 seconds, then turn it off for 10 seconds, then turn it on again for 10, then start the engine.
The crankcase ventilation oil separator assembly can clog with sludge; in extreme cases this can lead to combustible vapour building up in the intake and going bang in a big way when you next start the car. The valve is fitted to many BMWs and is one of the most ‘popular’ replacement parts!
• Transmission
If there is a rattle when you switch the engine off, which doesn’t happen if you have the clutch down, then this is probably the clutch springs. If this is the case, then it’s fairly normal and nothing to worry about. Shift from first to second are notchy.
• Body and chassis
Your Z4 M should come with two keys, so check that they both operate the remote central locking. If not, then it is a main dealer job to get them reprogrammed.
Be aware that the strut braces can crack near the strut tops – it’s actually the weld on the body that breaks so replacement is expensive – so check this area carefully.
• Brakes and suspension
The road springs have been known to snap at 35-45k, so check the car sits level and there are no rattles from the corners when driving. Some owners fit uprated Eibach or H&R springs.
Creaking from the rear can be worn anti-roll bar bushes, but they are reasonably cheap to replace.
Franzino said:
BMW Z4 M Checkpoints
• Engine
Check the service book for the initial, 1200-mile service. This is where the fluids are changed from the run-in spec to the normal spec, and if it wasn’t done then serious wear could result.
Curiously, the throttle system can go out of tune. Resetting it can improve throttle response and its really simple to do: turn the ignition on and wait for 10 seconds, then turn it off for 10 seconds, then turn it on again for 10, then start the engine.
The crankcase ventilation oil separator assembly can clog with sludge; in extreme cases this can lead to combustible vapour building up in the intake and going bang in a big way when you next start the car. The valve is fitted to many BMWs and is one of the most ‘popular’ replacement parts!
• Transmission
If there is a rattle when you switch the engine off, which doesn’t happen if you have the clutch down, then this is probably the clutch springs. If this is the case, then it’s fairly normal and nothing to worry about. Shift from first to second are notchy.
• Body and chassis
Your Z4 M should come with two keys, so check that they both operate the remote central locking. If not, then it is a main dealer job to get them reprogrammed.
Be aware that the strut braces can crack near the strut tops – it’s actually the weld on the body that breaks so replacement is expensive – so check this area carefully.
• Brakes and suspension
The road springs have been known to snap at 35-45k, so check the car sits level and there are no rattles from the corners when driving. Some owners fit uprated Eibach or H&R springs.
Creaking from the rear can be worn anti-roll bar bushes, but they are reasonably cheap to replace.
sounds some very good information here - thank you will certainly look out for those• Engine
Check the service book for the initial, 1200-mile service. This is where the fluids are changed from the run-in spec to the normal spec, and if it wasn’t done then serious wear could result.
Curiously, the throttle system can go out of tune. Resetting it can improve throttle response and its really simple to do: turn the ignition on and wait for 10 seconds, then turn it off for 10 seconds, then turn it on again for 10, then start the engine.
The crankcase ventilation oil separator assembly can clog with sludge; in extreme cases this can lead to combustible vapour building up in the intake and going bang in a big way when you next start the car. The valve is fitted to many BMWs and is one of the most ‘popular’ replacement parts!
• Transmission
If there is a rattle when you switch the engine off, which doesn’t happen if you have the clutch down, then this is probably the clutch springs. If this is the case, then it’s fairly normal and nothing to worry about. Shift from first to second are notchy.
• Body and chassis
Your Z4 M should come with two keys, so check that they both operate the remote central locking. If not, then it is a main dealer job to get them reprogrammed.
Be aware that the strut braces can crack near the strut tops – it’s actually the weld on the body that breaks so replacement is expensive – so check this area carefully.
• Brakes and suspension
The road springs have been known to snap at 35-45k, so check the car sits level and there are no rattles from the corners when driving. Some owners fit uprated Eibach or H&R springs.
Creaking from the rear can be worn anti-roll bar bushes, but they are reasonably cheap to replace.
cramorra said:
Franzino said:
BMW Z4 M Checkpoints
• Engine
Check the service book for the initial, 1200-mile service. This is where the fluids are changed from the run-in spec to the normal spec, and if it wasn’t done then serious wear could result.
Curiously, the throttle system can go out of tune. Resetting it can improve throttle response and its really simple to do: turn the ignition on and wait for 10 seconds, then turn it off for 10 seconds, then turn it on again for 10, then start the engine.
The crankcase ventilation oil separator assembly can clog with sludge; in extreme cases this can lead to combustible vapour building up in the intake and going bang in a big way when you next start the car. The valve is fitted to many BMWs and is one of the most ‘popular’ replacement parts!
• Transmission
If there is a rattle when you switch the engine off, which doesn’t happen if you have the clutch down, then this is probably the clutch springs. If this is the case, then it’s fairly normal and nothing to worry about. Shift from first to second are notchy.
• Body and chassis
Your Z4 M should come with two keys, so check that they both operate the remote central locking. If not, then it is a main dealer job to get them reprogrammed.
Be aware that the strut braces can crack near the strut tops – it’s actually the weld on the body that breaks so replacement is expensive – so check this area carefully.
• Brakes and suspension
The road springs have been known to snap at 35-45k, so check the car sits level and there are no rattles from the corners when driving. Some owners fit uprated Eibach or H&R springs.
Creaking from the rear can be worn anti-roll bar bushes, but they are reasonably cheap to replace.
sounds some very good information here - thank you will certainly look out for those• Engine
Check the service book for the initial, 1200-mile service. This is where the fluids are changed from the run-in spec to the normal spec, and if it wasn’t done then serious wear could result.
Curiously, the throttle system can go out of tune. Resetting it can improve throttle response and its really simple to do: turn the ignition on and wait for 10 seconds, then turn it off for 10 seconds, then turn it on again for 10, then start the engine.
The crankcase ventilation oil separator assembly can clog with sludge; in extreme cases this can lead to combustible vapour building up in the intake and going bang in a big way when you next start the car. The valve is fitted to many BMWs and is one of the most ‘popular’ replacement parts!
• Transmission
If there is a rattle when you switch the engine off, which doesn’t happen if you have the clutch down, then this is probably the clutch springs. If this is the case, then it’s fairly normal and nothing to worry about. Shift from first to second are notchy.
• Body and chassis
Your Z4 M should come with two keys, so check that they both operate the remote central locking. If not, then it is a main dealer job to get them reprogrammed.
Be aware that the strut braces can crack near the strut tops – it’s actually the weld on the body that breaks so replacement is expensive – so check this area carefully.
• Brakes and suspension
The road springs have been known to snap at 35-45k, so check the car sits level and there are no rattles from the corners when driving. Some owners fit uprated Eibach or H&R springs.
Creaking from the rear can be worn anti-roll bar bushes, but they are reasonably cheap to replace.
1200 mile service - essential. Don't buy a car without it.
Throttle system reset is easy and free, so barely worth mentioning (unless of course the car you drive feels a bit odd in that department, and you need to give the throttle reset a try).
As said, the rattle when you turn the car off (any Z4) without the clutch depressed is completely normal. Most people I know will turn a car off and on with the clutch depressed anyway, by way of mechanical sympathy, so it's not a problem.
Springs will snap. This is guaranteed. Not a costly replacement though if you want to stick with OEM, or as said, 90% of owners replace with Eibach Pro-Kit springs @ £200.
Another note on creaking from the rear. If it creaks when you get out of the car with the handbrake on, this is totally normal. My 14,000 mile car did it, and my 56,000 mile car also does it. I had my previous car lubricated by BMW, which cured the problem for a couple of weeks.
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