Higher output alternator or new battery?
Discussion
Hi Peeps..Im trying to find an option to sort my problem out of the radiator fan flattening my battery..I do believe that my alternator is a 55amp and the charge rate is low..I was contemplating getting a higher rated battery but im limited for space in the bulkhead and cant get a battery rated over 45amps to fit..Its 130 wide max..Would it be better to get a higher output alternator?..Cheers..Ziga
I think you need to have the alternator output checked, I'm no expert but your alternator should be able to produce enough juice to run the fan and still charge the battery. If you were using all the other electrics, such as all the lights, heater blower and mega stereo etc. it should still be able to cope. Even if your fan was taking 30amps (which I'm sure it doesn't) you should still have plenty of power left if your alternator is producing anything like 55 amps!
Cheers chaps..I did have it checked and if i can remember correctly i think it was about 14 amps..Not sure what the fan is but its a 13" pusher..Probably around 7-8 amps?..I should get it checked again.
Thats correct mate,The fan still stays on quite a while after switching off..About 5 mins..It could just be a pony battery...Is a 45 amp battery big enough?..Cheers..Ziga
Thats correct mate,The fan still stays on quite a while after switching off..About 5 mins..It could just be a pony battery...Is a 45 amp battery big enough?..Cheers..Ziga
Most times if the alternator isn't producing enough it's the connections - earth straps ends, where the alternator clamps on to the engine, alternator +ve and sense wires, amke sure the terminals are all clean.
If the fan is pulling power after you turn off why not energise it from the ingition switched supply instead?
If the fan is pulling power after you turn off why not energise it from the ingition switched supply instead?
I think Mark might have meant around 14 volts..?
When an engine is switched off, because the water pump has suddenly stopped, it will get a bit hotter before it starts cooling down.
It shouldn't be necessary for the fan to run on that long after shut down, though.
Are you still using the adjustable fan switch?
What temperature is it set to come on and off at?
We will get to the bottom of this!
Just off out now, I'll check back later.
When an engine is switched off, because the water pump has suddenly stopped, it will get a bit hotter before it starts cooling down.
It shouldn't be necessary for the fan to run on that long after shut down, though.
Are you still using the adjustable fan switch?
What temperature is it set to come on and off at?
We will get to the bottom of this!
Just off out now, I'll check back later.
Cheers guys..I will check and clean the connections where possible..It is tight in there but ill have a look..I dont want to be shelling out again on another new part..It might be inetivable but i want to be absolutely sure first..I did think it was a low amp output as if the fan is say 7 amps then thats half the charge going away from the battery..Im not sure about having the fan on the ignition just yet..Wiring is not my strong point..But its an option..I did have to ask somone for a jump start when i came back earlier and stopped off at a petrol station..The battery was totally flat after 12 miles..I did have a bit of coughing and spluttering for a short time and im sure it cant be fuel related as all of the issues surrounding it have been dealt with..It was ok after i pulled onto the hard shoulder and revved it hard a few times..No smoke came out the back so im at a bit of a loss as to what that could be?..Might be electrical..Cheers..Ziga
Zig, the alternator produces a lot of energy not sure what the current rating of the ford alternator but it should easily exceed 55 Amps. It really does sound like the alternators not charging- there are a number of quick ways to check using a multimeter if you can get your hands on one.
[quote=adam quantrill]Most times if the alternator isn't producing enough it's the connections - earth straps ends, where the alternator clamps on to the engine, alternator +ve and sense wires, amke sure the terminals are all clean.
Or the alternator belt is worn out or slack thereby not driving the alternator when under load.
Or the alternator belt is worn out or slack thereby not driving the alternator when under load.
You should raise the trigger temperature to bring the fan on, it should not be needed at all when the car is cruising at urban or trunk road speeds.
Only needed at idle or when in slow traffic. if you have the fan running most of the time, it is entirely capable of consuming all the margin of extra power normally available from a stock alternator so the battery never get a chance to charge up.
No amount of fiddling with fans types or changing a good alternator or a good batteries can alter the law of supply and demand.
Turn off the demand by the fan, when the engine should be cooled by ram air coming thro' the radiator when driving normally and let the alternator supply do its proper job and charge up the battery at the same time.
Only needed at idle or when in slow traffic. if you have the fan running most of the time, it is entirely capable of consuming all the margin of extra power normally available from a stock alternator so the battery never get a chance to charge up.
No amount of fiddling with fans types or changing a good alternator or a good batteries can alter the law of supply and demand.
Turn off the demand by the fan, when the engine should be cooled by ram air coming thro' the radiator when driving normally and let the alternator supply do its proper job and charge up the battery at the same time.
Cheers smate..I have just looked in the ford manual and my alternator looks more like a femsa brand which is output at 13.5v and 6000rpm (Nominal)= 32 amp..It does say at 4000 rpm it should be kicking out between 13.7-14.5 volt..(Not amps)..silly me..Im sure this is what it was when i last had it checked..I have also at some point used a quick charge on the battery and have read that its not a good thing..Obviously after i did it..So maybe the battery is crape..Cheers..Ziga
i recently took out the viscous fan due to bearing being shot. i was given a puller fan from an iveco van, i made some mounting brakets and currently just use a switch via a relay to power the fan. i will be fitting an inline top hose fan switch soon. i find that during driving no fan is required, it is only needed when waiting at traffic lights. i havent had any problems with charging or power loss and i have a new but standard battery for the tasmin. when i stop the engine i just turn off the fan if it was on.
Mark
In the morning start the car and let it run, then check the battry voltage. It should read over 14 Volts.
Turn on the lights, check voltage, there will be a little drop but not much. Then slowly turn on the rest of the electric's and then check voltage. Buy this time the engine should be hot and the fan should come in, then check voltage again!
If the voltage drops below 12 volt before the fan kicks in then you alternator is shot! If it stays above or around 12 volts with all the electrics on (Lets face it there not that much electrical on the car) then it's your battery!
If that fails it's back to the can and a match!
Andy
In the morning start the car and let it run, then check the battry voltage. It should read over 14 Volts.
Turn on the lights, check voltage, there will be a little drop but not much. Then slowly turn on the rest of the electric's and then check voltage. Buy this time the engine should be hot and the fan should come in, then check voltage again!
If the voltage drops below 12 volt before the fan kicks in then you alternator is shot! If it stays above or around 12 volts with all the electrics on (Lets face it there not that much electrical on the car) then it's your battery!
If that fails it's back to the can and a match!
Andy
Edited by Mr Tank on Friday 16th September 00:12
Hi Peeps..Just looked on maplins website and there are loads of multimeters..Im a bit of a newbie when it comes to this so can anyone advise what one to get please..I might just nip to the local garage and let him do it for now..Cheers..Ziga
http://www.maplin.co.uk/general-purpose-analoguemu...
http://www.maplin.co.uk/
http://www.maplin.co.uk/general-purpose-analoguemu...
http://www.maplin.co.uk/
jmorgan said:
I would get in there with a multimeter and see what is going on first. My in car volt meter says all sorts of weird things and I know it is a different story when I get the meter on it. It reads a lower voltage for a start.
And check all your earths, clean them and lube them up.
JeffAnd check all your earths, clean them and lube them up.
When I said voltage I mean voltage with a meter not the in car gauge! That in true TVR fashion will read anything from 11 volts to 15 volts when it feels like it!
My SEAC always reads 12 to 13 volts but with a meter it reads 14+ when engine is first running and reduces as it should but the onboard gauge stays around 12 to 13 until I turn on the heater fan and boy does it drop then down to 10! don't you just love TVR electrics!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Back to the thread, we are both presuming that mark has some sort of meter? No doubt he will sort it! With his record it will mean a new batt, new alternator, and about 10 miles of new wire!!! plus the ocassion bit of
from it before he does sort it! mrzigazaga said:
Hi Peeps..Just looked on maplins website and there are loads of multimeters..Im a bit of a newbie when it comes to this so can anyone advise what one to get please..I might just nip to the local garage and let him do it for now..Cheers..Ziga
http://www.maplin.co.uk/general-purpose-analoguemu...
Markhttp://www.maplin.co.uk/general-purpose-analoguemu...
The above is a basic meter, it would do the job as long as you understand it! But it will prove helpful with lots of jobs on your car in the future! (God help us wiring faults posts, from now on!)
You other option taking it to a garage will cost more so it's up to you!
Andy
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