Accusump, Suspension & Traction Control
Discussion
I'm currently configuring the items for a build which should start in 2012.
Do you need an Accusump, if the engine has already a dry sump like the LS7?
Has anybody tried the 5000€ dampers from Intrax? Are they worth the money?
Do you have any experience with a traction control? The system from Racelogic seems suitable. I guess installing three more wheel speed sensors shouldn't be a problem.
--Ben
Do you need an Accusump, if the engine has already a dry sump like the LS7?
Has anybody tried the 5000€ dampers from Intrax? Are they worth the money?
Do you have any experience with a traction control? The system from Racelogic seems suitable. I guess installing three more wheel speed sensors shouldn't be a problem.
--Ben
BenGTR said:
I'm currently configuring the items for a build which should start in 2012.
Do you need an Accusump, if the engine has already a dry sump like the LS7?
Has anybody tried the 5000€ dampers from Intrax? Are they worth the money?
Do you have any experience with a traction control? The system from Racelogic seems suitable. I guess installing three more wheel speed sensors shouldn't be a problem.
--Ben
Accusump is not necessary if you have a dry sump, despite the LS7 standard DS system being a single scavenge. If you are concerned about engine damage under hard cornering, you can either upgrade the dry sump to multiple scavenges or get it gated (as we have done).Do you need an Accusump, if the engine has already a dry sump like the LS7?
Has anybody tried the 5000€ dampers from Intrax? Are they worth the money?
Do you have any experience with a traction control? The system from Racelogic seems suitable. I guess installing three more wheel speed sensors shouldn't be a problem.
--Ben
The standard Intrax dampers are good - most people won't be able to tell the difference in multiple way adjustables - I would say that they are only worthwhile if you are fine tuning the car on track to get the last few tenths.
Traction control should be straightforward to fit - tuning it to get it working well can be another issue. However, I think it 'spoils' the raw nature of the car. But its horses for courses I suppose.
Pb3 said:
Don't forget that an Accusump will also pre-lube the engine prior to starting! That has to be worth something.
Problem is that unlike the other LSx engines, the LS7 does apparently not have the essential 'oil gallery access plug', so fitting such a unit becomes a nightmare...I checked....otherwise I would have fitted one.macgtech said:
Accusump is not necessary if you have a dry sump, despite the LS7 standard DS system being a single scavenge. If you are concerned about engine damage under hard cornering, you can either upgrade the dry sump to multiple scavenges or get it gated (as we have done).
The standard Intrax dampers are good - most people won't be able to tell the difference in multiple way adjustables - I would say that they are only worthwhile if you are fine tuning the car on track to get the last few tenths.
Traction control should be straightforward to fit - tuning it to get it working well can be another issue. However, I think it 'spoils' the raw nature of the car. But its horses for courses I suppose.
How did they gate your sump Jonny? Is it bolt in or a welding job?
Paul
The standard Intrax dampers are good - most people won't be able to tell the difference in multiple way adjustables - I would say that they are only worthwhile if you are fine tuning the car on track to get the last few tenths.
Traction control should be straightforward to fit - tuning it to get it working well can be another issue. However, I think it 'spoils' the raw nature of the car. But its horses for courses I suppose.
How did they gate your sump Jonny? Is it bolt in or a welding job?
Paul
GarethGTR said:
Hi
I am bemused as to why accusumps are being fitted?
I have mine run up oil pressure prior to firing automatically and am sure this will than suffice???
Is there a particular reason why these units are being fitted to ultimas?
Gareth
It prevents oil starvation in high G turns where your engines oil pick-up can be starved of oil because it is thrown everywhere bar the bottom of the sump.I am bemused as to why accusumps are being fitted?
I have mine run up oil pressure prior to firing automatically and am sure this will than suffice???
Is there a particular reason why these units are being fitted to ultimas?
Gareth
It has nothing to do with pre-oiling the galleries on starting, though that's a bonus.
If you have a dry sump then its not required.
80% of engine wear happens at start up when oil pressure has not built up enough to stop rotating metal to metal contact in the engine. Not firing until oil pressure has built up will obviously help this but the engine still has compression to overcome and valve spring weights etc. As a system to help prevent this I think they are extremely valuable especially in a vehicle which may not run for long periods of time.
That may have been the case 20 years ago (sounds like the Castrol Magnatec advert 
) but I think nowadays with modern oils that figure has been reduced drastically.
If it hadn't most engines would be scrap at 80k miles.
LS engined carsin the US have 100k mile warranties don't they? They don't have pre oilers and if they wore out as you say, they'd be smoking like a good 'un well before that.
) but I think nowadays with modern oils that figure has been reduced drastically.If it hadn't most engines would be scrap at 80k miles.
LS engined carsin the US have 100k mile warranties don't they? They don't have pre oilers and if they wore out as you say, they'd be smoking like a good 'un well before that.
funny this comes up regularly, and sounds to me like this old saying that an engine needs at least 1000 mile run in time.
Some of these sayings simply do not go away.........
My DATFAST ECU is adressing this issue quite simply, it takes a lot more turns before starting the engine compared to my
production cars. So there is some oil pressure built up before firing.
For after winter firing I have fitted a switch in the engine compartment that is feeding the ECU. So after not using for a few months
I crank the engine until I see good healthy oil pressure built up and then throw the ECU feed switch.
Not too complicated.........
Some of these sayings simply do not go away.........
My DATFAST ECU is adressing this issue quite simply, it takes a lot more turns before starting the engine compared to my
production cars. So there is some oil pressure built up before firing.
For after winter firing I have fitted a switch in the engine compartment that is feeding the ECU. So after not using for a few months
I crank the engine until I see good healthy oil pressure built up and then throw the ECU feed switch.
Not too complicated.........
MarkWebb said:
80% of engine wear happens at start up
no, it doesn't."80" percent of the wear occurs when the engine is operating significantly below it's normal operating temperature.
It's a statistic that various people have slightly "modified" to their own ends.
it also takes no account for how long you run the engine for after start. Take Police M/way traffic cars, typically they do only a few starts every day, but run for hrs fully warmed. I stripped an V6 scorpio engine years ago that had 340k miles on it, and it looked like brand new inside!
During the actual start event very little wear occurs because the loads are low, and so you don't need hydraulic pressure to maintain the hydrodynamic oil film in the bearings etc. (and velocity is low for the cam/tappet and piston ring/bore interface)
What wears out an engine is trashing it (high load/high rpm) when it is cold, when the normal dimensional tollerances have not been achieved due to the cold material temperatures. And these days, with modern synthetic oils, even that is much much reduced due to there extreme lubricity.
Modern engines with stop-start have no specific changes to their oil system, and are usually validated for something like half a million starts..........
^ x2 .... Lubricant improvements being the number 1 with better material and more consistent machining/tolorences being a close second..
Similarly I bought one of the last ex BIB 3.0 Capri's ... no engine wear and being formally tax funded, already had a Factory replacement box and rear axle.. No sunroof though... usually how you could identify ex Police V6 Capris..
The common problem with kit type installs are long winter lay-ups combined with lots of Uk moisture and the occasional short run (just to make certain all is well when the mates are round sunday PM).. Best to get your big, cold V8 thoroughly warmed up whenever an engine start is performed..... despite being a modern version, even the LS's can manufacture a fair amount of condensation internally. And the number of owners who wont display any mechanical sympathy on warm up is ?? ..well almost as many as bike riders who seem to waste more fuel blipping than actually moving. (have a bike so can comment on this pet hate)
Similarly I bought one of the last ex BIB 3.0 Capri's ... no engine wear and being formally tax funded, already had a Factory replacement box and rear axle.. No sunroof though... usually how you could identify ex Police V6 Capris..
The common problem with kit type installs are long winter lay-ups combined with lots of Uk moisture and the occasional short run (just to make certain all is well when the mates are round sunday PM).. Best to get your big, cold V8 thoroughly warmed up whenever an engine start is performed..... despite being a modern version, even the LS's can manufacture a fair amount of condensation internally. And the number of owners who wont display any mechanical sympathy on warm up is ?? ..well almost as many as bike riders who seem to waste more fuel blipping than actually moving. (have a bike so can comment on this pet hate)
Aviaid ist selling nice kits for the LS7. I guess step 1 & 2 from the link will be enough for a GTR driven only sometimes on trackdays. Does anyone know if American Speeds engines have the standard dry sump tank?
Yes you can argue about the sense of a traction control, however it can be deactivated and if you are driving in rain I would feel safer.
Yes you can argue about the sense of a traction control, however it can be deactivated and if you are driving in rain I would feel safer.
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