Transaxle and Clutch Fork Install
Transaxle and Clutch Fork Install
Author
Discussion

rduart

Original Poster:

113 posts

233 months

Friday 16th September 2011
quotequote all
I am getting ready to install my transaxle. Looking at some drawing of the clutch fork assembly it looks to be straight forward. I was wondering if any of the parts should have some type of grease applied during the installation process? My transaxle is a G96-88.

Also does anyone have any tips of tricks they would suggest? My goal is to get it installed this weekend.


Thanks,

Randy

LuckyP

6,243 posts

249 months

Friday 16th September 2011
quotequote all
- clutch alignment tool
- head torch
- elastic band
- threadlock (for slave cylinder bolts and spindle retainer)
- torque figures to hand
- wooden block and cardboard wrapped (for rear lower crossmember)
- and a bucket of patience!!!

Satisfying job when done right.

The release bearing and the release fork spindle are greased I believe. But I will bow down to the Prof's superior knowledge......

....it's been a long time

Steve_D

13,801 posts

282 months

Friday 16th September 2011
quotequote all
The fork is the difficult bit.
You need to hang it from the release bearing using elastic bands.
Then fit the box.
Then fit a 5" length of M6 studding into the end of the pivot shaft. This is your tool to help insert the shaft through one side of the housing, through the fork, then into the needle roller bearing on the other side of the 'box housing. The important bit is not dislodging the needles in the opposite bearing.
If you knock a needle over then you will likely have to take the 'box back out again to reset the needles (like we had to do today).
With the shaft in place you can fit the second bearing and insert the plastic cap and fit the retaining plate.

Steve

PS the elastic bands will just disintegrate on startup and never be seen again.


Edited by Steve_D on Saturday 17th September 08:53

Pb3

1,064 posts

270 months

Friday 16th September 2011
quotequote all
Ha, I found my elastic band some months later on the garage floor, looking a little worse for wear! Lucky or what?

738 driver

1,202 posts

217 months

Friday 16th September 2011
quotequote all
I ground a slightly longer lead-in on the pivot to help push the needles against the outer race during insertion.... although you lose a few thou of contact area it really does help.... also used a long caphead bolt to assist with fine alignment/fitting..

Another good little gem is bore and thread a couple of m5/m6 holes mid radius through the aluminium thrust bearing housing (centre of crank) ... it makes removing the housing / replacing the the needle thrust bearing a breeze... can also be done in situ if you have a steady hand and apply some care.

Good Luck.

rduart

Original Poster:

113 posts

233 months

Monday 10th October 2011
quotequote all
Thank you for all your support and help. Job finally done but not without some head scratching and complaining. Being that my transaxle is a G96-88, I am now on to building a rear transaxle support bracket. My thoughts are to set the transaxle level front to rear. Right now it is setting tilted slightly rearward. I cannot think of any reason it should not be level? Does anyone else have a different suggestion?

Thanks,

Randy