Advice on buying an MR2
Discussion
Looking at buying a mk2 n/a. Ruled out a turbo as it's too costly. Not a fan of the MR-S and want something more reliable than a mk1.
I'm going to view one that seems to be all I want (low-ish miles, FSH, long MOT etc)
What should I be looking out for with regards to buying it? what sort of price should I be expecting to pay for a 1998 N/A?
Any other info about buying or running a mk2 in general will be greatly appreciated
I'm going to view one that seems to be all I want (low-ish miles, FSH, long MOT etc)
What should I be looking out for with regards to buying it? what sort of price should I be expecting to pay for a 1998 N/A?
Any other info about buying or running a mk2 in general will be greatly appreciated
Better asking on www.mr2oc.co.uk for a buying guide, but generally they are reliable if a T bar the roof seals need checking for leaks, very common. A 1998 car might have the “beams” engine if your lucky (more powerful Jap only engine fitted to late mk2s) Otherwise reliable cars and second hand parts are very cheap these days. I wouldn’t pay more than £2k even if it was mint as the more sought after rev3+ turbo’s can be had for this these days. Also try and buy one with good brand tyres or budget for these handling on an old mid engined car needs reasonable brand tyres to work.
Hi,
This comes from years and years of experience.
Engines - get late model beams if possible (1998-1999), thats pushing 200 bhp from 2 liter NA engine. (VVT).
Try 1995 onwards, if possible. Engines are basically bullet proof if maintained properly, its the chassis you have to worry about. More specific, rear sills and check also sides under the doors. If possible, also feel the chassis top of rear strut and ask if you can remove rear trunk lining - the worst rust spots are the rear corners.
T-TOPs with old seals generally leak, so take it through car wash or test drive during rain or get 200£ to replace them.
Handling is superb.
This comes from years and years of experience.
Engines - get late model beams if possible (1998-1999), thats pushing 200 bhp from 2 liter NA engine. (VVT).
Try 1995 onwards, if possible. Engines are basically bullet proof if maintained properly, its the chassis you have to worry about. More specific, rear sills and check also sides under the doors. If possible, also feel the chassis top of rear strut and ask if you can remove rear trunk lining - the worst rust spots are the rear corners.
T-TOPs with old seals generally leak, so take it through car wash or test drive during rain or get 200£ to replace them.
Handling is superb.
I'm selling a similar one soon 1998 N/A Rev 5 T-bar, 70k miles, full toyota history (will have fresh service and MOT before sale), all mot's and reciepts from new, 4 brand new Toyo T1-R's, Black leather seats, sonic shadow (two tone silver/black paint). In lovely condition. Just need to get round to advertising it!
PaulGT3 said:
I'm selling a similar one soon 1998 N/A Rev 5 T-bar, 70k miles, full toyota history (will have fresh service and MOT before sale), all mot's and reciepts from new, 4 brand new Toyo T1-R's, Black leather seats, sonic shadow (two tone silver/black paint). In lovely condition. Just need to get round to advertising it!
You're even further away than the 2 I'm looking at! 
If you don't mind me asking though, how much do you think a car like yours is worth?
So I'm still looking.
I've narrowed it down to wanting a Rev5, preferably a T-bar. I've seen one for sale but it is very much top money. 2000(V), 52k, one owner, FTSH, leather, t-bar.
Is anyone up to date with prices to give me a rough idea what I should be paying?
Cheers.
P.s. Hows yours coming along Paul?
I've narrowed it down to wanting a Rev5, preferably a T-bar. I've seen one for sale but it is very much top money. 2000(V), 52k, one owner, FTSH, leather, t-bar.
Is anyone up to date with prices to give me a rough idea what I should be paying?
Cheers.
P.s. Hows yours coming along Paul?
I'd avoid one with any kind of rust, mine is a 1990 import (cant remember when it was imported but its had at least 10 years in this country) and its like new underneath!
Later ones got revised suspension geometry which made them a bit nicer to drive, although I cant remember the year.
If you can, get one with a recent cambelt as its a engine out job to replace!
Later ones got revised suspension geometry which made them a bit nicer to drive, although I cant remember the year.
If you can, get one with a recent cambelt as its a engine out job to replace!
Buy on condition as is often said on here.
take your time there are plenty to choose from and a good one is a joy
and wonderful value for money.
get the geo checked and quality rubber installed and they handle well
( well mine does anyhow )
the oily bits are fairly bomb proof too unless you do some silly mods.
definitely check out the owners clubs for a huge amount of information
some of it is even useful
take your time there are plenty to choose from and a good one is a joy
and wonderful value for money.
get the geo checked and quality rubber installed and they handle well
( well mine does anyhow )
the oily bits are fairly bomb proof too unless you do some silly mods.
definitely check out the owners clubs for a huge amount of information
some of it is even useful
Scantily said:
If you're looking to spend in the region of 3k then that is rev3 turbo money, I would highly highly recommend buying a turbo if possible. Great fun, quite fast, reliable and hearing the turbo spooling up behind your head is addictive.
As I've said, a turbo although lovely, would be a lot more to insure. A late N/A is going to be a decent enough power hike over my current car believe me The one I'm looking at and described above is up for £3400...
Gassing Station | General Gassing | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff