Manifold Wrap?
Discussion
Hi Paul,
Read many a thread on wraps (on PH and other makes forums) as its one thing I'm looking at to reduce bay temps. If you're keeping the mild steel originals, then moisture trapped by the wrap may become an issue in rotting the manifold quicker. There's some anecdotal evidence that wrapping causes more cracking than not, due to lack of heat dispersal, potential for creating hot spots with un-even wrapping and additional expansion of the manifold.
The extra heat transfer along the exhaust may cause issue further down the pipes and in many cases unless the car is decatted, the cabin temps are increased.
Most opinion I can find from internet threads, is that wrapping stainless steel manifolds ie the ACT ones, is ok, but wrapping the mild steel OEM's isnt. As with everything on Cerbs, its good and bad!!
Read many a thread on wraps (on PH and other makes forums) as its one thing I'm looking at to reduce bay temps. If you're keeping the mild steel originals, then moisture trapped by the wrap may become an issue in rotting the manifold quicker. There's some anecdotal evidence that wrapping causes more cracking than not, due to lack of heat dispersal, potential for creating hot spots with un-even wrapping and additional expansion of the manifold.
The extra heat transfer along the exhaust may cause issue further down the pipes and in many cases unless the car is decatted, the cabin temps are increased.
Most opinion I can find from internet threads, is that wrapping stainless steel manifolds ie the ACT ones, is ok, but wrapping the mild steel OEM's isnt. As with everything on Cerbs, its good and bad!!
Edited by djstevec on Wednesday 21st September 12:24
Pros; There is a small chance it may make a very slight difference.
Cons; Probably wont make a difference on a Cerb, costs money/time, all TVR manifolds on Cerbs crack and you wont be able to access/ weld them without a faff.
Steve - if you want to reduce temps in the engine bay, you're best off looking at the transmission tunnel first. Decatting will help remove two great big 900 degree(?) cans underneath there, I would suggest this would help it all be noticeably cooler?
Cons; Probably wont make a difference on a Cerb, costs money/time, all TVR manifolds on Cerbs crack and you wont be able to access/ weld them without a faff.
Steve - if you want to reduce temps in the engine bay, you're best off looking at the transmission tunnel first. Decatting will help remove two great big 900 degree(?) cans underneath there, I would suggest this would help it all be noticeably cooler?
markh1 said:
You could look at getting them ceramic coated. More expensive but more effective.
Have many Cerb owners tried this?? Was quoted £730 + VAT + shipping to coat the standard ACT replacements in their standard white coating. All in cost appx £1,600 including manifold purchase. Can old manifolds be coated after a good (very good) clean up?Only other thing to bear in mind with exhaust wrap is that if oil or fuel can drip onto the wrapping. On the Cerb, I'm specifically talking about the breather on the drivers side of the car. This has caused fires in the past (not on Cerb's but on other cars with wrapped manifolds).
You can get a spray that you spray onto the wrap once it has been wrapped onto the manifold to protect against this.
Also, when you fit the wrap, soak it in water first and fit it wet. This reduces the horrible fibres that your skin will attract and also makes the wrap "shrink" around the manifolds when it dries. Use steel cable ties to securely hold the wrap in place and then spray with the protective spray after that.
Hope that helps!
You can get a spray that you spray onto the wrap once it has been wrapped onto the manifold to protect against this.
Also, when you fit the wrap, soak it in water first and fit it wet. This reduces the horrible fibres that your skin will attract and also makes the wrap "shrink" around the manifolds when it dries. Use steel cable ties to securely hold the wrap in place and then spray with the protective spray after that.
Hope that helps!
scotty_d said:
Very Broad my magnetic pick tool sticks to it like s
t to a blanket 
So a fairly high iron content there then.
Not really to do with iron content. t to a blanket So a fairly high iron content there then.
Austentitic stainless steel, which is non magnetic, is the most prevelabt type, but there are many grades of ferritic stainless steel. Most likely reason that your cerb exhaust is magnetic is a low nickel content in the alloy.
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