Electric RC advice required!
Discussion
I am thinking about fixing up my old Tamiya TL01 so my five year old son can start to learn with it.
I can't remember which motor is in it at the moment but its slightly quicker than the standard one (not brushless though) although I do still have the original 540 motor.
It has the standard mechanical speed controller in it at the moment but I was thinking of replacing it with an electronic one then I can dial back the throttle on the transmitter so he can learn at a slow speed then slowly progress up to normal speed when he's better at it.
Would it be worth me sticking with NiCad/NiMH? I still have a couple of packs although they haven't been used for nearly 10 years although one is working (I don't know how well though. I've also got some 2 cell lipos for a helicopter but they are not the hard case ones.
Also I'm not that clued up on speed controllers, I want to spend as little as possible as I'm not too bothered about performance so was looking at this one http://www.modelsport.co.uk/modelsport-uk-sniper-r...
Any advice would be much appreciated, apologies for the long post!
I can't remember which motor is in it at the moment but its slightly quicker than the standard one (not brushless though) although I do still have the original 540 motor.
It has the standard mechanical speed controller in it at the moment but I was thinking of replacing it with an electronic one then I can dial back the throttle on the transmitter so he can learn at a slow speed then slowly progress up to normal speed when he's better at it.
Would it be worth me sticking with NiCad/NiMH? I still have a couple of packs although they haven't been used for nearly 10 years although one is working (I don't know how well though. I've also got some 2 cell lipos for a helicopter but they are not the hard case ones.
Also I'm not that clued up on speed controllers, I want to spend as little as possible as I'm not too bothered about performance so was looking at this one http://www.modelsport.co.uk/modelsport-uk-sniper-r...
Any advice would be much appreciated, apologies for the long post!
I wouldn't go with that ESC you selected, spend less than £10 more and get one of these:
http://www.modelsport.co.uk/hpi-en-1-electronic-sp...
We run them in Mardave's with the standard G2 tin can motor and the HPI speedo is far better. It's a more compact and fail safe design too.
http://www.modelsport.co.uk/hpi-en-1-electronic-sp...
We run them in Mardave's with the standard G2 tin can motor and the HPI speedo is far better. It's a more compact and fail safe design too.
LamboFan said:
I wouldn't go with that ESC you selected, spend less than £10 more and get one of these:
http://www.modelsport.co.uk/hpi-en-1-electronic-sp...
We run them in Mardave's with the standard G2 tin can motor and the HPI speedo is far better. It's a more compact and fail safe design too.
Oops too late, ordered it when I posted earlier. Never mind, might get one of those for the TB01 if I can find it! Found the stock motors and a load of other bits just not the other chassis.http://www.modelsport.co.uk/hpi-en-1-electronic-sp...
We run them in Mardave's with the standard G2 tin can motor and the HPI speedo is far better. It's a more compact and fail safe design too.
Just a quick update to say that its all working nicely and he's enjoying driving it around the garden. I've got it set at about 40% power at the moment so he's quite happy as its quicker than anything else he has had before.
Just one quick question, I've got 2x 3.7v lipos spare ( these), would these work as a battery pack, they have built in discharge protection.
Thanks
Just one quick question, I've got 2x 3.7v lipos spare ( these), would these work as a battery pack, they have built in discharge protection.
Thanks
owl101 said:
they probably won't last long, but hooking them up in serial will give you the volts you need at about half the run time of a normal pack. I probably wouldn't bother, but that's me 
But if a wire them in series (being 2x 2400mah 3.7v) they would be 1x 7.4 2400mah wouldn't they? Which is more than my 1400mah nicad anyway. If not I'll just buy some normal packs, is it worth buying NiMH packs over NiCads?
The only thing I like about Lipo is I can top them up rather than having to completely discharge and recharge.
I'd save yourself the bother. New Nimh's http://www.pit-bitz.com/product_info.php?products_... are so cheap and much less bother.
if you want to go the Lipo route they are now under £17 and http://www.pit-bitz.com/product_info.php?products_... as long as the esc has lipo protection are a better long term bet. If the ESC doesnt have lipo cut off just make sure your lad doesnt run lipo's till flat, they really dont like it and it can be dangerous.
(I actually use the lipo's for racing against far pricier batteries, they are far better than the price would lead you to believe.)
Simond S said:
I'd save yourself the bother. New Nimh's http://www.pit-bitz.com/product_info.php?products_... are so cheap and much less bother.
if you want to go the Lipo route they are now under £17 and http://www.pit-bitz.com/product_info.php?products_... as long as the esc has lipo protection are a better long term bet. If the ESC doesnt have lipo cut off just make sure your lad doesnt run lipo's till flat, they really dont like it and it can be dangerous.
(I actually use the lipo's for racing against far pricier batteries, they are far better than the price would lead you to believe.)
Thanks, I've already got a 2s lipo so I'll probably just stick the tamiya connector on it and run with that.if you want to go the Lipo route they are now under £17 and http://www.pit-bitz.com/product_info.php?products_... as long as the esc has lipo protection are a better long term bet. If the ESC doesnt have lipo cut off just make sure your lad doesnt run lipo's till flat, they really dont like it and it can be dangerous.
(I actually use the lipo's for racing against far pricier batteries, they are far better than the price would lead you to believe.)
Just wasn't sure if there was any special requirement on the ESC apart from the voltage monitor.
I've got a lipo monitor I can chuck on the balance plug so I'll just use that.
Take care with LiPo's and you'll never go back so normal cells ever again. What ever you do, don't use those 2 large LiPo batteries pictured. Purchase a correct LiPo pack for RC cars.
Just make sure that you use a charger that IS designed to charge LiPo's as not all chargers can. If it's old gear you have I would not feel comfortable using LiPo's with it.
Incorrect charging and it WILL result in a big BANG or should I say, fizz followed by uncontrolled fire. If charging LiPo's - always place them inside a LiPo charging sack, when not in use they should also be placed inside a LiPo sack.
Not trying to scare you off as you can blow up an old fashion 6 cell pack if you don't treat it correctly - just giving you a warning. I've been using them now for 3 years without any issues what so ever myself, however I have witnessed a LiPo pack 'swell' from damage, but thankfully it never went to the next stage which is were the danger is.
If they do start to fizz you do have time to remove it from your car and throw as far away as you can because once they fire up you can't stop it - you just have to wait for them to go out!!! Leave it in your car and you won't have a car to go back to...
Happy charging
Just make sure that you use a charger that IS designed to charge LiPo's as not all chargers can. If it's old gear you have I would not feel comfortable using LiPo's with it.
Incorrect charging and it WILL result in a big BANG or should I say, fizz followed by uncontrolled fire. If charging LiPo's - always place them inside a LiPo charging sack, when not in use they should also be placed inside a LiPo sack.
Not trying to scare you off as you can blow up an old fashion 6 cell pack if you don't treat it correctly - just giving you a warning. I've been using them now for 3 years without any issues what so ever myself, however I have witnessed a LiPo pack 'swell' from damage, but thankfully it never went to the next stage which is were the danger is.
If they do start to fizz you do have time to remove it from your car and throw as far away as you can because once they fire up you can't stop it - you just have to wait for them to go out!!! Leave it in your car and you won't have a car to go back to...
Happy charging
I've used lipos with helicopters over the last few years so are fairly familiar with them now just wasn't too sure on those trustfire ones. I've got a Zippy 2200 pack I'm going to use paired up with a lipo monitor.
As for charging I've got a pretty decent one with balancing connectors etc so will be fine.
I'm mounting the battery on top of the car instead of where it normally is so its more protected.
As for charging I've got a pretty decent one with balancing connectors etc so will be fine.
I'm mounting the battery on top of the car instead of where it normally is so its more protected.
Run some of these like I do (although you may find them a little excessive )...
http://www.rccarshop.co.uk/index.php/electrics/bat...
)...http://www.rccarshop.co.uk/index.php/electrics/bat...
wacattack said:
Run some of these like I do (although you may find them a little excessive )...
http://www.rccarshop.co.uk/index.php/electrics/bat...
Just a little but I'm liking the 5c charge rate, that's got to be a serious charger to handle that! )...http://www.rccarshop.co.uk/index.php/electrics/bat...
Its a charger very similar to this...
http://www.rccarshop.co.uk/index.php/electrics/cha...
If you get into RC properly then you will see that this type of equipment is the "norm"
http://www.rccarshop.co.uk/index.php/electrics/cha...
If you get into RC properly then you will see that this type of equipment is the "norm"
Been running the car with the lipo for a few days now and its very good. Giving much more power than the old Nicad so I think that might have been a bit tired.
The only problem I have now is the the centre of gravity has changed a bit with the lipo being so light compared to the Nicad.
Is there anything I can do to help stop it roll over without adding more weight? I've got some old suspension spring spacers but don't know if they will help or not.
The only problem I have now is the the centre of gravity has changed a bit with the lipo being so light compared to the Nicad.
Is there anything I can do to help stop it roll over without adding more weight? I've got some old suspension spring spacers but don't know if they will help or not.
Spring spacers only add preload, they won't affect the geometry. Can you relocate the ESC /Rx lower on the chassis?
Could youget longer stub axles and spaces for the TL01, or swap to wheels with a higher offset? I did something similar in the past with an M-chassis or crawler, I think the TGX (old nitro) axles and wider (truck specific) HPI hex nuts to mount the wheels on did the trick. Or you could use a set of shorter shocks from a Mini chassis?
Could youget longer stub axles and spaces for the TL01, or swap to wheels with a higher offset? I did something similar in the past with an M-chassis or crawler, I think the TGX (old nitro) axles and wider (truck specific) HPI hex nuts to mount the wheels on did the trick. Or you could use a set of shorter shocks from a Mini chassis?
The only way to solve balance is to move equipment around - push the lipo cell further out from the centreline, while putting the electrics closer to the centreline. If that has not solved the balance then you have to weight the car up, but it won't need much.
Buy a pack of these:
http://demonpowerproducts.co.uk/product_info.php?m...
...and not only can you balance your car, moving the weight forward or back can also increase the overall control of the car, giving more grip to the rear or slight more corning control if brought forward - playing with springs and dampers so that they are different from side to side will not aid your cars overall balance and control.
Buy a pack of these:
http://demonpowerproducts.co.uk/product_info.php?m...
...and not only can you balance your car, moving the weight forward or back can also increase the overall control of the car, giving more grip to the rear or slight more corning control if brought forward - playing with springs and dampers so that they are different from side to side will not aid your cars overall balance and control.
LamboFan said:
The only way to solve balance is to move equipment around
playing with springs and dampers so that they are different from side to side will not aid your cars overall balance and control.
What a load of rubbish. The main way to solve balance is through camber link positions, shocks and wheelbase. Changing the weight distribution will clearly have an effect but suspension geometry will create a bigger difference. playing with springs and dampers so that they are different from side to side will not aid your cars overall balance and control.
OP - please can you explain how your car is grip rolling. Is the chassis rolling into the corner, and throughout the corner the chassis keeps trying to roll but ends up flipping. Or, does the chassis stay flat through the corner but flips suddenly?
Gassing Station | Scale Models | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff