MOT- urgent help am I being spun a lie?

[tomwoodis]

Cars just gone in for MOT. It's a 2005 plate focus diesel and the garage tells me the Handbrake needs adjusting and the two front shocks need replacing as they are 'blown out' . Handbrake I guess is possible but do they really check the shock absorbers on an MOT and what is the likelihood at this age of them having gone?

I like to think myself quite good with cars and I've not noticed a lack of damping at the front so I'm very sceptical.

Any advice much appreciated.

Tom

[KardioKate]

Can you go in and check for dampness around the shocks for yourself?

Of course shocks are checked for an MOT!

[JulianHJ]

Is it a rapid fit type of place, a main dealer, a local indy? Have you asked them if they can show you where the issues are (i.e. point out the leak or wear)? Any reason to suspect they're trying it on?

[GadgeS3C]

Sorry to be blunt but it's a bit contradictory to say you're good with cars and then ask if they check shocks on an MOT!

Yes of course they do. Are they trying it on? Who knows but it's possible that 6 year old shocks could be knackered.

Have you tested them?

[tomwoodis]

Am down there now, they say they will put it on the ramp for me so I can take a look.

The place is a rapid tyre type place yes.

Cars done 75,000 miles which is a fair bit granted but I still wouldn't have thought that they would be worn out already.

[Special K]

GadgeS3C said:

Have you tested them?

How do you test them ?

My understanding is that if they are not leaking and look to be in good condition they will pass ?

[JulianHJ]

Well, they should be able to point out exactly where the issue is. Was it obvious?

[balls-out]

thank them for the MOT and take it to another garage to get the work done (if required).
Most modern handbrakes are self adjusting - does it work? how many clicks on the ratchet.


Blown-out? - Odd words, but imply leak more than not working. A leak is a fail. Is there oil visible?

Edited by balls-out on Saturday 24th September 10:38

[lance1a]

Bounce the car on the corners. If it springs back and settles firmly then they are uasually ok. If they continue to wallow a bit then they are shot.

[GadgeS3C]

lance1a said:

Bounce the car on the corners. If it springs back and settles firmly then they are uasually ok. If they continue to wallow a bit then they are shot.

This - doesn't mean it'd fail (see other comment above) but should give you a clue.

Good luck!

[tomwoodis]

Well, the car has just been up on the ramp and to be fair, if you run your finger around the inside of the spring seat you can feel an oily residue there so they probably are leaking a bit.

what's weird is that the bounce test produces the result i would expect (i.e it bounces and settles).

They claimed to have a proper bouncing machine in their shop that they used and that they were only about 30% effective or something.

The hand brake I'm more skeptical of as it seems fine but then they only want £25 quid to take the rear wheels off and clean the drums so I'm not too bothered about that one.

They said it would be about £280 all in for 2 new shocks and the labour to do them and the brakes. Doesn't sound too bad to me, anyone any thoughts?

Thanks also for the quick advice from you all, much appreciated.

T

[GreigM]

thoughts are to take it away - ask them what the retest policy is - you could get the shocks done a fair bit cheaper, even if its the same cost elsewhere its peace of mind that you haven't been screwed

[Pints]

Definitely take it elsewhere, both for a second opinion and to get the work done (if 2nd opinion deems it necessary).

[S3_Graham]

sounds expensive.

I paid £100 for 2 new rear shocks on my S3 from a main dealer and £50 for someone to fit them.

[Tony427]

Handbrake : take the leatherette cover from around the handbrake lever in the car. This cover simply clips in. Below you will see a vertical threaded stud with a 10mm IIRC nut under a securing clip. Pull the clip up and tighten the nut up as far as required. You want about 4 to 5 clicks to stop the car from moving.

The shocks are interesting. Check for leaks coming out from under the plastic gaiters at the top of the struts.

If theres no leaks they haven't "blown". In 40 years of fixing and building all types of cars I have never heard of a shock absorber being "blown". I've had leaking shocks, bent shocks but never blown shocks.

The sums seem a bit rich for a simple handbrake adjustment and renewing two strut inserts.

Cheers,

Tony

Edited by Tony427 on Saturday 24th September 11:56

[Pig Skill]

S3_Graham said:

sounds expensive.

I paid £100 for 2 new rear shocks on my S3 from a main dealer and £50 for someone to fit them.

Rear shocks are always cheaper and a lot easier to fit though. Front struts are a lot more involving and need a geo check after changing.

[corozin]

If the front shocks are knackered that should be very obvious just by driving the car!

[maniac0796]

Tony427 said:

Handbrake : take the leatherette cover from around the handbrake lever in the car. This cover simply clips in. Below you will see a vertical threaded stud with a 10mm IIRC nut under a securing clip. Pull the clip up and tighten the nut up as far as required. You want about 4 to 5 clicks to stop the car from moving.

The sums seem a bit rich for a simple handbrake adjustment and renewing two strut inserts.

Cheers,

Tony

Edited by Tony427 on Saturday 24th September 11:56

This is terrible advice.

If the car has discs on the back, you need to check that the handbrake arms move properly and are back on their stops. If they're stuck forward, you need to free them off with a wirebrush, some rust off and levering it back and forward. If they still stick, new calipers. You also need to check the pads are nice and free and the disc isn't too rusty.

As for drums, you need to take the drum off, make sure the handbrake levers are back on their stop, and then click it up in the drum. If the arms are forward then you need to slacken the cable off at the lever in the car. Then adjust in the drum.

All you do by moving that nut inside the car is adjust the slack on the handbrake cable. The only way it makes the handbrake better is by pulling the lever forward, which will cause them to bind constantly, overheat and cost you a lot more in the longrun.

[Terminator X]

You'll get rinsed by them when standing in the workshop with your car in bits Take elsewhere & get a couple of quotes imho.

TX.

[Leptons]

maniac0796 said:

Tony427 said:

Handbrake : take the leatherette cover from around the handbrake lever in the car. This cover simply clips in. Below you will see a vertical threaded stud with a 10mm IIRC nut under a securing clip. Pull the clip up and tighten the nut up as far as required. You want about 4 to 5 clicks to stop the car from moving.

The sums seem a bit rich for a simple handbrake adjustment and renewing two strut inserts.

Cheers,

Tony

Edited by Tony427 on Saturday 24th September 11:56

This is terrible advice.

+1

OP I would be interested to see this magical shock absorber bouncing machine?
You need to find out what brand shocks they are fitting because the price varies wildly.