Hard to select gear
Discussion
Hi
At about 250 miles into a 350 miles journey at the weekend, I found it progressively harder to change gear. The gears weren't crunching but the lever felt harder to move. It got to the point where I was having to blip the throttle to match the revs before it would slot into gear.
Also, if I sat stationary in 1st gear with the clutch depressed, every so often I could feel some movement through the pedal.
All seems to be back to normal today but it's something I would like to get to the bottom of.
Any ideas?
At about 250 miles into a 350 miles journey at the weekend, I found it progressively harder to change gear. The gears weren't crunching but the lever felt harder to move. It got to the point where I was having to blip the throttle to match the revs before it would slot into gear.
Also, if I sat stationary in 1st gear with the clutch depressed, every so often I could feel some movement through the pedal.
All seems to be back to normal today but it's something I would like to get to the bottom of.
Any ideas?
I take it by you stating “All seems to be back to normal today but it's something I would like to get to the bottom of” That the clutch is no performing with no problems after a short drive?
My thoughts echo NTEL’s but i have a few more suggestions:-
NTEL’s:-
(Check the brake/clutch fluid level, has it lost any? If so prob the slave cylinder.
Check the brake/clutch fluid isn’t high on moisture content, you could of boiled it ?
Bleed the clutch check for air?)
Check gearbox transmission oil level
Check the clutch pedal movement is not restricted and master cylinder looks ok, behind pedal box trim.
Crankshaft loosing/lost its thrust bearing/crank face, this would cause a clutch to disappear. Check end float on harmonic damper.
If the spigot bearing is on its way out you will struggle to get gears.
I think for the clutch to come back it lends itself to something that has failed when hot but ok when not so hot, like clutch/brake fluid boiling.
My thoughts echo NTEL’s but i have a few more suggestions:-
NTEL’s:-
(Check the brake/clutch fluid level, has it lost any? If so prob the slave cylinder.
Check the brake/clutch fluid isn’t high on moisture content, you could of boiled it ?
Bleed the clutch check for air?)
Check gearbox transmission oil level
Check the clutch pedal movement is not restricted and master cylinder looks ok, behind pedal box trim.
Crankshaft loosing/lost its thrust bearing/crank face, this would cause a clutch to disappear. Check end float on harmonic damper.
If the spigot bearing is on its way out you will struggle to get gears.
I think for the clutch to come back it lends itself to something that has failed when hot but ok when not so hot, like clutch/brake fluid boiling.
Thanks guys.
Ok, a few things are coming back to me (was a long weekend!). After stopping for fuel, the car became quite hard to pull away from the pump. It actually stalled (first time ever) and once restarted had to give it a few revs to pull away. There was a bit of a clunk as the car started to move - reminiscent of when an engine mount failed on a Clio Williams I once had, but then appeared to be fine afterwards.
The car drove as normal on the 10 mile journey to work this morning so as mentioned above, perhaps it is related to running hot for a long period of time?
Ok, a few things are coming back to me (was a long weekend!). After stopping for fuel, the car became quite hard to pull away from the pump. It actually stalled (first time ever) and once restarted had to give it a few revs to pull away. There was a bit of a clunk as the car started to move - reminiscent of when an engine mount failed on a Clio Williams I once had, but then appeared to be fine afterwards.
The car drove as normal on the 10 mile journey to work this morning so as mentioned above, perhaps it is related to running hot for a long period of time?
NTEL said:
Good call.
Wouldn’t this cause the gear lever to move/change position especially when the engine is revved? (It did on my Griffith, it was my first sign that an engine mount had gone).I can’t see why a failing NS engine mount would cause the clutch not to operate properly? Unless the engine moving causes the clutch’s hydraulic hose to fail/kink?
Good if that’s the case as they are a low cost fix to this gent’s problem.
Differential mount or fuel tank fixings are more so linked to pulling away clunks.
Cockey said:
Thanks guys.
Ok, a few things are coming back to me (was a long weekend!). After stopping for fuel, the car became quite hard to pull away from the pump. It actually stalled (first time ever) and once restarted had to give it a few revs to pull away. There was a bit of a clunk as the car started to move - reminiscent of when an engine mount failed on a Clio Williams I once had, but then appeared to be fine afterwards.
The car drove as normal on the 10 mile journey to work this morning so as mentioned above, perhaps it is related to running hot for a long period of time?
Ok, a few things are coming back to me (was a long weekend!). After stopping for fuel, the car became quite hard to pull away from the pump. It actually stalled (first time ever) and once restarted had to give it a few revs to pull away. There was a bit of a clunk as the car started to move - reminiscent of when an engine mount failed on a Clio Williams I once had, but then appeared to be fine afterwards.
The car drove as normal on the 10 mile journey to work this morning so as mentioned above, perhaps it is related to running hot for a long period of time?
The NS mount fails prematurely as the exhaust kindly cooks it. You are best to look from underneath and see if the mount has cracked, started to sag or at worst tear in two. Not sure you will be able to see from above. To see from underneath I think you will have to remove the engine under tray (lots of 17mm bolts)
I’d say easiest way to see if the NS engine mount is failing, drive the car in 2nd or 3rd accelerate normally and feel if the gear lever pulls to the OS. If the NS mount has completely failed the engine will pivot from the prop shaft and OS engine mount.
I’d say easiest way to see if the NS engine mount is failing, drive the car in 2nd or 3rd accelerate normally and feel if the gear lever pulls to the OS. If the NS mount has completely failed the engine will pivot from the prop shaft and OS engine mount.
Cockey said:
Got a colleague to help me remove the bonnet (I'm in the office at the moment) in the hope of checking the NS engine mount but sadly couldn't see it. What do I need to remove to see it? Or is it visable from underneath? Why can't it be as obvious as the OS mount?! 
After giving it some in 2nd and 3rd I've noticed no movement at all with the gear lever and the car has been behaving beautifully all week - until yesterday.
Had been out in the sunshine several times throughout the day any without issues, but on pulling over and turning off the engine for about 5 minutes, the stiffness in the gear selection reappeared when I restarted the engine. Thinking back to when it first happened over the weekend, it was after filling up with fuel, so once again I had turned off the engine for about 5 minutes.
Had been out in the sunshine several times throughout the day any without issues, but on pulling over and turning off the engine for about 5 minutes, the stiffness in the gear selection reappeared when I restarted the engine. Thinking back to when it first happened over the weekend, it was after filling up with fuel, so once again I had turned off the engine for about 5 minutes.
So the conditions you say are causing the stiff gear selection are:-
Gear selection fine from cold engine temp and warm engine temp. Turn the engine off when warm for ¡Ý5mins then re-start engine and gear selection become a problem due to heavy/resistance in clutch pedal. Clutch will operate like this until restarted from cold.
It still sounds like its related to temperature but then being stood for a short period of time.
I think you need to start spending some time/money to fix......
Check clutch brake fluid level, check for moisture content, then bleed with fresh fluid, then go from there.......
Checking slave cylinder and master cylinder, then gear box off and check clutch.
The only other thing I can think of that is yet to be advised is the input spline shaft is picking up/dragging on the clutch, but that would be a gearbox off job to check.
How many miles has the engine done, if rebuilt how many miles has the rebuild done?
How many miles has the current clutch done?
(As mentioned before, I have known a worn thrust crank face cause a fading clutch pedal.)
Gear selection fine from cold engine temp and warm engine temp. Turn the engine off when warm for ¡Ý5mins then re-start engine and gear selection become a problem due to heavy/resistance in clutch pedal. Clutch will operate like this until restarted from cold.
It still sounds like its related to temperature but then being stood for a short period of time.
I think you need to start spending some time/money to fix......
Check clutch brake fluid level, check for moisture content, then bleed with fresh fluid, then go from there.......
Checking slave cylinder and master cylinder, then gear box off and check clutch.
The only other thing I can think of that is yet to be advised is the input spline shaft is picking up/dragging on the clutch, but that would be a gearbox off job to check.
How many miles has the engine done, if rebuilt how many miles has the rebuild done?
How many miles has the current clutch done?
(As mentioned before, I have known a worn thrust crank face cause a fading clutch pedal.)
Cockey said:
After giving it some in 2nd and 3rd I've noticed no movement at all with the gear lever and the car has been behaving beautifully all week - until yesterday.
Had been out in the sunshine several times throughout the day any without issues, but on pulling over and turning off the engine for about 5 minutes, the stiffness in the gear selection reappeared when I restarted the engine. Thinking back to when it first happened over the weekend, it was after filling up with fuel, so once again I had turned off the engine for about 5 minutes.
Had been out in the sunshine several times throughout the day any without issues, but on pulling over and turning off the engine for about 5 minutes, the stiffness in the gear selection reappeared when I restarted the engine. Thinking back to when it first happened over the weekend, it was after filling up with fuel, so once again I had turned off the engine for about 5 minutes.
m4tti said:
Really.. the parts cost about that alone. Did you change your own clutch then?
Nope - got it for that price fitted - cant remember if it was with / without VAT but still a very big difference.... http://www.tvrpower.co.uk/store/slug/genuine-a-p-r...
Whoever fitted it for you has taken you for a right mug lol (@ 1300gbp).... Sound like the TVR palce in Barnet ....
Edited by Tuscain on Thursday 20th October 20:05
Edited by Tuscain on Thursday 20th October 20:14
Tuscain said:
Nope - got it for that price fitted - cant remember if it was with / without VAT but still a very big difference....
http://www.tvrpower.co.uk/store/slug/genuine-a-p-r...
Whoever fitted it for you has taken you for a right mug lol (@ 1300gbp).... Sound like the TVR palce in Barnet ....
So that's including the slave at approx 300 is it?http://www.tvrpower.co.uk/store/slug/genuine-a-p-r...
Whoever fitted it for you has taken you for a right mug lol (@ 1300gbp).... Sound like the TVR palce in Barnet ....
Edited by Tuscain on Thursday 20th October 20:05
Edited by Tuscain on Thursday 20th October 20:14
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