Oil leak - sump ??
Discussion
Have just confirmed I have an oil leak from the sump on my Chim 4L; am intending to do this myself bit can people confirm there aren't any nasties to watch out for. Haven't taken a sump off for some time let alone on a TVR; sump bolts look pretty easy to remove ??
Do I use a sump gasket or is it gasket sealer these days and if so which sealer is best ?
Do I use a sump gasket or is it gasket sealer these days and if so which sealer is best ?
Hi,I have the same problem, new drive and spots of oil on it already. I have read up on changing gasket and seems very straight forward. I have also bought some studs and nuts to replace the bolts you can find them on ebay. A cork gasket from rimmer bros and I was going to smear a bit of gasket sealer on to it as well. The only thing to watch is their are two threaded holes at the back of the sump that go through into the engine this is where the leak is supposed to come from, so seal the threads on these two when fitting back. Interesting though today I was under the car working on the chassis and as I Had a socket spanner nearby I thought I would give the sump bolts a tweak and manged to get half a turn from each one, so watch this space!!
From a previous post of mine - the 'final' update as it were...
I decided in the end to go for gasket AND sealant - the gasket I found on EBay, but collected it in person cos it was just down the road from where I live. It wasnt made of rubber or cork, but made of something else.
Cleaned all the old gunk off the mating services on the bottom of the engine and sump pan with thinners.
Installed the studs I had bought, making sure that each one had a drop of thread sealant applied.
Refitted the drain plug whilst the sump was off the car - new copper washer, bit of ptfe tape AND gasket sealant (perhaps over kill??).
Used some gasket sealant on the sump pan, laid the gasket on that and then another thin bead of sealant on the gasket.
Checked the oil strainer - no issues there.
Offering up to the engine was really easy and this was achieved without any smearing of the sealant, thanks to the the studs I had installed.
Two of the studs had to be taken out, as they were too short and I could not get the washer, spring washer AND then the bolt on them; so, cleaned a couple of the old bolts with thinners, applied some thread sealant, and fitted.
Left overnight to cure.
So far, dry as a bone and no leaks from sump or drain plug - and that is now over 150 miles done.
Hope you find this useful.
Nosh.
I decided in the end to go for gasket AND sealant - the gasket I found on EBay, but collected it in person cos it was just down the road from where I live. It wasnt made of rubber or cork, but made of something else.
Cleaned all the old gunk off the mating services on the bottom of the engine and sump pan with thinners.
Installed the studs I had bought, making sure that each one had a drop of thread sealant applied.
Refitted the drain plug whilst the sump was off the car - new copper washer, bit of ptfe tape AND gasket sealant (perhaps over kill??).
Used some gasket sealant on the sump pan, laid the gasket on that and then another thin bead of sealant on the gasket.
Checked the oil strainer - no issues there.
Offering up to the engine was really easy and this was achieved without any smearing of the sealant, thanks to the the studs I had installed.
Two of the studs had to be taken out, as they were too short and I could not get the washer, spring washer AND then the bolt on them; so, cleaned a couple of the old bolts with thinners, applied some thread sealant, and fitted.
Left overnight to cure.
So far, dry as a bone and no leaks from sump or drain plug - and that is now over 150 miles done.
Hope you find this useful.
Nosh.
DAZZZZZZ !Nosh said:
Two of the studs had to be taken out, as they were too short and I could not get the washer, spring washer AND then the bolt on them; so, cleaned a couple of the old bolts with thinners, applied some thread sealant, and fitted.
OTOMH you need 2 longer studs on small journal blocks & 6 longer studs on large journal blocks. Probably 1.25" & 1.5", sorry to be vague but I just keep a big box along with a load of flanged nuts which I also consider essential (I use the serrated versions & don't bother with the lock washers).I try & avoid sealant making my own gaskets from strips of closed cell rubber foam, but if you must there is absolutely no need to place it against the flat face of the block IMHO, and between the sump and gasket I would only put it on the outer part so it is sealing on the outside of the ridge in the sump pan? Sealant & cork bits in the oil is obviously a well known problem so taking all sensible precautions to limit problems would seem the obvious way forward if you must.
Studding is just thread, screw it in & then clamp up with a nut..
Essentially you put them in and then you are wearing the stud thread out with the nut - not continually damaging the tapping in the block. The other advantages are that it is easier to locate the sump onto studs, rather than slide around until you can get a few bolts started, and that since you have to seal various threads in the blocks (not all are blind and oil can weep down the thread) it's easier to do in a stud and only the once unlike a bolt every time you remove it..
The only downside IMO is having to hold a nut in the tip of a socket when you are working upside down to start screwing up, so using nuts with a flange on is the way I overcome that setback.
Socket set screws can be used as studs and are readily available (all thread with a slot for an allen key ~ like a grub screw), whereas a proper stud is threaded at each end with various length of solid stock in between - and much harder to specify
Essentially you put them in and then you are wearing the stud thread out with the nut - not continually damaging the tapping in the block. The other advantages are that it is easier to locate the sump onto studs, rather than slide around until you can get a few bolts started, and that since you have to seal various threads in the blocks (not all are blind and oil can weep down the thread) it's easier to do in a stud and only the once unlike a bolt every time you remove it..
The only downside IMO is having to hold a nut in the tip of a socket when you are working upside down to start screwing up, so using nuts with a flange on is the way I overcome that setback.
Socket set screws can be used as studs and are readily available (all thread with a slot for an allen key ~ like a grub screw), whereas a proper stud is threaded at each end with various length of solid stock in between - and much harder to specify
spend said:
The only downside IMO is having to hold a nut in the tip of a socket when you are working upside down to start screwing up, so using nuts with a flange on is the way I overcome that setback.
There is a very simple solution to this for anyone who would rather use flat and spring washers.Put a bit of insulating tape around the socket "end" so it is just proud of the end of the socket.
The nut drops into the socket, the spring washer then drops on top of it, the flat washer sits on the top edge of the socket and can't slip off due to tape.
Unless you have hands like elephant's feet it works every time
Ribol said:
There is a very simple solution to this for anyone who would rather use flat and spring washers.
Put a bit of insulating tape around the socket "end" so it is just proud of the end of the socket.
The nut drops into the socket, the spring washer then drops on top of it, the flat washer sits on the top edge of the socket and can't slip off due to tape.
Unless you have hands like elephant's feet it works every time
I think you have completely missed the point, the studs are not left sticking miles out, if a plain nut drops down into a socket you will not reach the thread of the stud? The flange is so that the nut will sit in the 'mouth' of the socket, and neither having to fiddle with tiny little nuts fallen edgeways in a socket whilst upside down crawling underneath a car either Put a bit of insulating tape around the socket "end" so it is just proud of the end of the socket.
The nut drops into the socket, the spring washer then drops on top of it, the flat washer sits on the top edge of the socket and can't slip off due to tape.
Unless you have hands like elephant's feet it works every time
http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/ImagePopUp.aspx?i=GRID...
I bought the composite/ fibre gasket from EBay. The sump has been removed a few times now and it is still going strong. A smear of Hylomar helps the seal. Just drain the oil first. Rimmers also sell new imperial sized bolts and washers for the sump and the pressure plate for the rear of the sump. You'll never get the spring washers of the old bolts, so order some new ones for about a fiver.
I bought the composite/ fibre gasket from EBay. The sump has been removed a few times now and it is still going strong. A smear of Hylomar helps the seal. Just drain the oil first. Rimmers also sell new imperial sized bolts and washers for the sump and the pressure plate for the rear of the sump. You'll never get the spring washers of the old bolts, so order some new ones for about a fiver.
Chuffmeister said:
http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/ImagePopUp.aspx?i=GRID...
I bought the composite/ fibre gasket from EBay. The sump has been removed a few times now and it is still going strong. A smear of Hylomar helps the seal. Just drain the oil first. Rimmers also sell new imperial sized bolts and washers for the sump and the pressure plate for the rear of the sump. You'll never get the spring washers of the old bolts, so order some new ones for about a fiver.
Thanks ChuffmeisterI bought the composite/ fibre gasket from EBay. The sump has been removed a few times now and it is still going strong. A smear of Hylomar helps the seal. Just drain the oil first. Rimmers also sell new imperial sized bolts and washers for the sump and the pressure plate for the rear of the sump. You'll never get the spring washers of the old bolts, so order some new ones for about a fiver.
I had the same problem - problem solved by Mike Vernon who got rid of the cork grommet someone had placed in my sump and replaced with 10/40 semi-synthetic. I'm told that TVR only used 15/40 mobil1 because they got free oil form the race team! its too thin really so 10/40 is better. Seems to be running fine so far...
DoctorBonzo said:
I had the same problem - problem solved by Mike Vernon who got rid of the cork grommet someone had placed in my sump and replaced with 10/40 semi-synthetic. I'm told that TVR only used 15/40 mobil1 because they got free oil form the race team! its too thin really so 10/40 is better. Seems to be running fine so far...
Viscosity is rated at 0° F (represented by the number preceding the "W" [for Winter]) and at 212° F (represented by the second number in the viscosity designation). So 10W-30 oil has less viscosity when cold and hot than does 20W-50. Motor oil thins as it heats and thickens as it cools. So, with the right additives to help it resist thinning too much, an oil can be rated for one viscosity when cold, another when hot. The more resistant it is to thinning, the higher the second number. Basically, the second number tells you that the oil will stay thicker at high temperatures. The first number is more important on start-up or in very cold temperatures.Plenty have been running their cars of 10w40, 15w50, 20w50 without any issues. I've been running on Mobil 10w60, although, I may try the Penrite oil suggested by ChimpOnGas. I wouldn't get too uptight, unless you consistently pushing your engine to its extremes on track days etc. These engine are after all old technology supported by modern oils. I think the general consensus is that the oil needs to remain thicker for these engines.
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