3000m drive shaft lengths
Discussion
Erich.
Only through playing around with various options of late I would state that their isn't much difference if any.
If I were you I would measure the width of your TR diff and Salsbury diff from flange to flange. as a fixed diff this will be the only determining factor in terms of overall shaft length. in my opinion their will be enough spline travel to allow the diffs to be interchanged. From full droop to full compression the spline only moves though a 10 - 15mm arc so as long as their is no chance of the splined shaft bottoming out you will be OK.
If you are worried. Disconnect your spring and shock and move the suspension through its full arc to ensure nothing bottoms out.
N.
Only through playing around with various options of late I would state that their isn't much difference if any.
If I were you I would measure the width of your TR diff and Salsbury diff from flange to flange. as a fixed diff this will be the only determining factor in terms of overall shaft length. in my opinion their will be enough spline travel to allow the diffs to be interchanged. From full droop to full compression the spline only moves though a 10 - 15mm arc so as long as their is no chance of the splined shaft bottoming out you will be OK.
If you are worried. Disconnect your spring and shock and move the suspension through its full arc to ensure nothing bottoms out.
N.
heightswitch said:
Erich.
Only through playing around with various options of late I would state that their isn't much difference if any.
If I were you I would measure the width of your TR diff and Salsbury diff from flange to flange. as a fixed diff this will be the only determining factor in terms of overall shaft length. in my opinion their will be enough spline travel to allow the diffs to be interchanged. From full droop to full compression the spline only moves though a 10 - 15mm arc so as long as their is no chance of the splined shaft bottoming out you will be OK.
If you are worried. Disconnect your spring and shock and move the suspension through its full arc to ensure nothing bottoms out.
N.
I dont have the TR6 diff so I cant make the width between flanges comparison. I think they are bottoming out on droop though.Only through playing around with various options of late I would state that their isn't much difference if any.
If I were you I would measure the width of your TR diff and Salsbury diff from flange to flange. as a fixed diff this will be the only determining factor in terms of overall shaft length. in my opinion their will be enough spline travel to allow the diffs to be interchanged. From full droop to full compression the spline only moves though a 10 - 15mm arc so as long as their is no chance of the splined shaft bottoming out you will be OK.
If you are worried. Disconnect your spring and shock and move the suspension through its full arc to ensure nothing bottoms out.
N.
Erich Stahler said:
GAjon said:
This might be a dim question Erich, but you havn't got the inboard brakes on the diff have you?
Er no!GAjon said:
Well in that case, assuming you are still on the standard drum brake, bearing carrier arrangement they should be OK without any modifications other than the flange change.
That's the point, the hub carrier castings are 6 mm short of standard thanks to last owner's efforts! At present the splined drive shafts are within 3 mm of bottoming out during travel between compression and droop.Erich Stahler said:
That's the point, the hub carrier castings are 6 mm short of standard thanks to last owner's efforts! At present the splined drive shafts are within 3 mm of bottoming out during travel between compression and droop.
Erich, not quite sure what you are getting at.. I think you mean that the bolt face of the upright has lost 6mm, in essence causing the hub to protrude out of the back of the upright and towards the diff flange by an additional 6mm. In theory if this is the case you could have a lazer cut spacer plate made up to restore the distance. Your other option may be at the jag diff end. sometimes they run with a spacer to make up the distance where the inboard disc was and as such potentially you could machine this down a tad.. Some pics would help I would think your splines would be at greater risk of bottoming out at the horizontal plane though??Your other option may be to machine 1mm off each of the flanges to bring you 4mm back into play? just a thought!
N.
Edited by heightswitch on Saturday 8th October 11:11
heightswitch said:
Erich, not quite sure what you are getting at.. I think you mean that the bolt face of the upright has lost 6mm, in essence causing the hub to protrude out of the back of the upright and towards the diff flange by an additional 6mm.
That is precisely what I mean, the spacer does sound like the perfect solution.The 3 mm travel on the splined shafts is with the spacer that replaces the inboard disk removed.
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