Suspension refurb
Discussion
I am about to start refurbing my suspension as the wishbones are a bit rusty, although look structurally sound. The car is a 450 Chim 1998. I have the paint, new powerflex bushs and wire brush. Do you need a spring compressor to get the shocks out? As the car has only done 30,000 miles is it worth doing any thing else whilst the suspesion is in pieces. i.e. replace shockers, ball joints, track rod ends and drop links. Or anything else come to that. The ball joints and track rod ends seem O.K. just need a clean. As I wil have the rear suspension out it will make the fuel filter easier to get to can any one tell me what the manufacturer is and part No etc. Any advice would be gratefully received. Thanks Richard.
You dont need a spring compressor to get the shocks out.
There is a million and one jobs you can do with the wishbones out. Its not what to do but what not to do.
You will need to have a full geometry check once its all back together[approx £100] so i would renew the top and bottom ball joints,and the track rod ends.If you do these in the future its another full geometry check.
At the rear with the wishbones out of the way and the exhaust dropped, i would drop the diff and fit poly bushes in the diff mounts, change the oil in the diff. check all the fuel lines, change the rubber brake hoses [if yours still has them].
It might all seem a bit much but with the wheels and wishbones out of the way these jobs are so much easier to access.
Top tip is to make sure the adjusters in the lower rear wishbones are not seized as these may well need adjusting during the full geometry check.
Good luck any more questions along the way just ask. Tom
There is a million and one jobs you can do with the wishbones out. Its not what to do but what not to do.
You will need to have a full geometry check once its all back together[approx £100] so i would renew the top and bottom ball joints,and the track rod ends.If you do these in the future its another full geometry check.
At the rear with the wishbones out of the way and the exhaust dropped, i would drop the diff and fit poly bushes in the diff mounts, change the oil in the diff. check all the fuel lines, change the rubber brake hoses [if yours still has them].
It might all seem a bit much but with the wheels and wishbones out of the way these jobs are so much easier to access.
Top tip is to make sure the adjusters in the lower rear wishbones are not seized as these may well need adjusting during the full geometry check.
Good luck any more questions along the way just ask. Tom
Hi Tom, Thanks for that it is what I was expecting really. What is the best way to source the parts? I have seen some after market ball joints on ebay but they talk about filling away bits of suspension to fit them. So if you know what the relevant part numbers are and the suppliers that information would be great. Also the fuel filter. Thanks for your help Richard.
Try Racetech track rod ends here;
http://www.racetechdirect.co.uk/tvr-car-parts-subs...
Top ball joints also;
http://www.racetechdirect.co.uk/tvr-car-parts-subs...
Bottom ball joints;
http://www.racetechdirect.co.uk/tvr-car-parts-subs...
A bit pricey but plenty of horror stories with some of the "cheaper" ones.
Fuel filter;
http://www.racetechdirect.co.uk/tvr-car-parts-subs...
I think if you took your old filter to any good motor factors they should be able to supply you with the correct/alternative filter.
Other TVR specific suppliers include... Racing green and clevertrevor [think they are both one and the same company now]also Tvrcarparts.
Hope this helps, Tom.
http://www.racetechdirect.co.uk/tvr-car-parts-subs...
Top ball joints also;
http://www.racetechdirect.co.uk/tvr-car-parts-subs...
Bottom ball joints;
http://www.racetechdirect.co.uk/tvr-car-parts-subs...
A bit pricey but plenty of horror stories with some of the "cheaper" ones.
Fuel filter;
http://www.racetechdirect.co.uk/tvr-car-parts-subs...
I think if you took your old filter to any good motor factors they should be able to supply you with the correct/alternative filter.
Other TVR specific suppliers include... Racing green and clevertrevor [think they are both one and the same company now]also Tvrcarparts.
Hope this helps, Tom.
Hi Dicky,
I did this job last winter and there are at least 3 recent threads with pictures that people have submitted over the last few months. It is a very satisfying job once done, but it WILL escalate, purely because you will want to do a good job and not have to take it all apart again any time soon!
All I originally wanted to do were the discs and pads but ended up adding steel brake hoses, ball joints, rod ends, bushes, shot blasted/powder coated suspension arms, new bolts, cleaned and painted the wheel arches and cleaned, prepped and protected the outriggers whilst I was under there. In total approx 100 hours and £700. Definitely a winter job, that way you can take your time and not miss any of our glorious summer driving!
Some items that made the job easier were panel wipe solvent/kitchen rolls for removing waxoil and crud, steel wheels that fit on to your drill for removing any awkward rust (sandpaper is very laborious), short handled spanners if your doing the rear brake line securing bolts. I had to remove paint/powder coat from the top suspension arms where the top ball joints bolt in as there is no room to slide them back in. Have fun!
I did this job last winter and there are at least 3 recent threads with pictures that people have submitted over the last few months. It is a very satisfying job once done, but it WILL escalate, purely because you will want to do a good job and not have to take it all apart again any time soon!
All I originally wanted to do were the discs and pads but ended up adding steel brake hoses, ball joints, rod ends, bushes, shot blasted/powder coated suspension arms, new bolts, cleaned and painted the wheel arches and cleaned, prepped and protected the outriggers whilst I was under there. In total approx 100 hours and £700. Definitely a winter job, that way you can take your time and not miss any of our glorious summer driving!
Some items that made the job easier were panel wipe solvent/kitchen rolls for removing waxoil and crud, steel wheels that fit on to your drill for removing any awkward rust (sandpaper is very laborious), short handled spanners if your doing the rear brake line securing bolts. I had to remove paint/powder coat from the top suspension arms where the top ball joints bolt in as there is no room to slide them back in. Have fun!
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