E46 M3, what are the costs?
Discussion
Hi Folks
So finally the time has come. I'm off to look at an M3 this weekend and I was wondering, would someone who already owns one be able to give me a rough breakdown of the running costs? I just want to make 100% certain that I'm not going to completely financially cripple myself!
Thanks
Matt
So finally the time has come. I'm off to look at an M3 this weekend and I was wondering, would someone who already owns one be able to give me a rough breakdown of the running costs? I just want to make 100% certain that I'm not going to completely financially cripple myself!
Thanks
Matt
Depends on the age and mileage etc.
Looking at an extended warranty which is worth having even at £80 a month.
10k miles for a set of tyres (more or less depending on how you drive) £900
Fuel (26mpg average on mine with lots of long runs and no stop start, few less on a SMG over a manual, 5-10mpg less if it is a weekend toy not a daily driver)
Service based on fuel usage so heavy right foot or lots of idle stuck in traffic and you might need it serviced every 9k miles, mine is every 16k miles though I usually change the oil every year anyway.
Service schedule goes: oil service, Inspection 1, oil service Inspection 2 plus some regular fluid changes.
Mine always needs a few other things so worked out about £300 or so for oil services, £800 for inspection 1 and £1200 for Inspection 2 though the big ones only come round every 45k miles or so.
Disks and pads last 20k-30K miles and similar for springs and suspension bushes though again depends how you drive and the road conditions.
Warranty on mine has paid for itself with new exhaust (1800), New Alternator and belts (800), New interior mirror (400), New Screen Sensor (300), and various little bits that they picked up at service which were also covered like differential seals.
Looking at an extended warranty which is worth having even at £80 a month.
10k miles for a set of tyres (more or less depending on how you drive) £900
Fuel (26mpg average on mine with lots of long runs and no stop start, few less on a SMG over a manual, 5-10mpg less if it is a weekend toy not a daily driver)
Service based on fuel usage so heavy right foot or lots of idle stuck in traffic and you might need it serviced every 9k miles, mine is every 16k miles though I usually change the oil every year anyway.
Service schedule goes: oil service, Inspection 1, oil service Inspection 2 plus some regular fluid changes.
Mine always needs a few other things so worked out about £300 or so for oil services, £800 for inspection 1 and £1200 for Inspection 2 though the big ones only come round every 45k miles or so.
Disks and pads last 20k-30K miles and similar for springs and suspension bushes though again depends how you drive and the road conditions.
Warranty on mine has paid for itself with new exhaust (1800), New Alternator and belts (800), New interior mirror (400), New Screen Sensor (300), and various little bits that they picked up at service which were also covered like differential seals.
I'm a bit further behind Mattudor, just starting to do my research (It's still between an M3 and a Supra...) Hence a few additional questions:
What's a decent low end price to start looking at? 10K+? 7K+?
I appreciate always buy on condition rather than miles, but is high mileage a particular issue? 100K?
Are there any particular things to look for when inspecting a car/known achilees heel to ask about?
What's a decent low end price to start looking at? 10K+? 7K+?
I appreciate always buy on condition rather than miles, but is high mileage a particular issue? 100K?
Are there any particular things to look for when inspecting a car/known achilees heel to ask about?
It all depends 'where the car is at' in terms of servicing and consumable parts when you buy it.For example,i have spent nearly £2k on mine this year on insp 1,front pads and discs and four tyres.This might seem like alot but other than anything unexpected i will not have to spend a penny on it now untill the next oil service which will be some time away other than fuel,tax and insurance of course.
It is difficult therefore to put a figure on yearly running costs as one year it might cost you a fortune,the next year it might cost you nothing.
Try and find a car that will not need any of the obvious things doing in the near future and work on about 25mpg if you do combined driving.
Also all cars pre june 2003 were recalled due to a problem with the oil supply which was causing main bearing failures! All cars should be sorted by now but if it was me i would just want to make sure to avoid any potential future headaches.
It is difficult therefore to put a figure on yearly running costs as one year it might cost you a fortune,the next year it might cost you nothing.
Try and find a car that will not need any of the obvious things doing in the near future and work on about 25mpg if you do combined driving.
Also all cars pre june 2003 were recalled due to a problem with the oil supply which was causing main bearing failures! All cars should be sorted by now but if it was me i would just want to make sure to avoid any potential future headaches.
Not too sure on the cracked subframe issue though from what i gather they are as rare as vanos problems which everybody seems to get scared about.Anyone know if this is also a free fix by BMW?
Personally i would not bother with a warranty now.A grand a year seems alot to pay when you might only be spending £10k or less on the car.I have owned mine over 4 years now and i am confident that other than wear and tear items it will never give me a problem that would benefit from a warranty.
Personally i would not bother with a warranty now.A grand a year seems alot to pay when you might only be spending £10k or less on the car.I have owned mine over 4 years now and i am confident that other than wear and tear items it will never give me a problem that would benefit from a warranty.
I think BMW are still fixing any subframe issues on cars up to 10 years old under warranty.
I can't think of major issues on the E46 that haven't been mentioned above, the vanos and smg systems seam to be more reliable than the systems on the earlier E36 M3 Evos and even those seam to be over hyped.
I can't think of major issues on the E46 that haven't been mentioned above, the vanos and smg systems seam to be more reliable than the systems on the earlier E36 M3 Evos and even those seam to be over hyped.
I've recently bought one, so can offer some insight i hope.
1. Service history is a must, also ring the dealer that 'did it' to check they actually did it.
2. Ring BMW Customer services to ensure all recalls have been done. On pre June '03 cars it will need to have had a bearing recall done. They can also tell you when it has been to a BMW dealer.
3. 1200 mile running in service needs to have been done, up to 1600 miles is ok iirc.
4. Rear subframe issues affect all cars, BMW will fix up to 10 years, after that you're on your own, & its a rather expensive repair. Go here for more info: http://forums.m3cutters.co.uk/showthread.php?t=332...
5. Headgaskets also go, unless you can do a compression/leakdown test on the test drive, there's a strong possibility that it will go, has nothing to do with servicing etc, it just breaks. Again, more info here: http://forums.m3cutters.co.uk/showthread.php?t=886... Costs about £1-2k to fix depending on where you go.
6. As per any other cars, try & buy one that has just had an Inspection 2 (£600-£900 at a specialist, £350 in parts only), new (decent) tyres all round (£600 for Vred's) & f/r discs/pads (£650 for parts only). If not, simply factor it into the price.
A good buyers guide is here: http://forums.m3cutters.co.uk/showthread.php?t=285...
Basically, if you do buy one, keep a grand in the bank in case the HG goes.
1. Service history is a must, also ring the dealer that 'did it' to check they actually did it.
2. Ring BMW Customer services to ensure all recalls have been done. On pre June '03 cars it will need to have had a bearing recall done. They can also tell you when it has been to a BMW dealer.
3. 1200 mile running in service needs to have been done, up to 1600 miles is ok iirc.
4. Rear subframe issues affect all cars, BMW will fix up to 10 years, after that you're on your own, & its a rather expensive repair. Go here for more info: http://forums.m3cutters.co.uk/showthread.php?t=332...
5. Headgaskets also go, unless you can do a compression/leakdown test on the test drive, there's a strong possibility that it will go, has nothing to do with servicing etc, it just breaks. Again, more info here: http://forums.m3cutters.co.uk/showthread.php?t=886... Costs about £1-2k to fix depending on where you go.
6. As per any other cars, try & buy one that has just had an Inspection 2 (£600-£900 at a specialist, £350 in parts only), new (decent) tyres all round (£600 for Vred's) & f/r discs/pads (£650 for parts only). If not, simply factor it into the price.
A good buyers guide is here: http://forums.m3cutters.co.uk/showthread.php?t=285...
Basically, if you do buy one, keep a grand in the bank in case the HG goes.
Sir_Dave said:
I've recently bought one, so can offer some insight I hope.
1. Service history is a must, also ring the dealer that 'did it' to check they actually did it.
2. Ring BMW Customer services to ensure all recalls have been done. On pre June '03 cars it will need to have had a bearing recall done. They can also tell you when it has been to a BMW dealer.
3. 1200 mile running in service needs to have been done, up to 1600 miles is ok iirc.
4. Rear subframe issues affect all cars, BMW will fix up to 10 years, after that you're on your own, & its a rather expensive repair. Go here for more info: http://forums.m3cutters.co.uk/showthread.php?t=332...
5. Headgaskets also go, unless you can do a compression/leakdown test on the test drive, there's a strong possibility that it will go, has nothing to do with servicing etc, it just breaks. Again, more info here: http://forums.m3cutters.co.uk/showthread.php?t=886... Costs about £1-2k to fix depending on where you go.
6. As per any other cars, try & buy one that has just had an Inspection 2 (£600-£900 at a specialist, £350 in parts only), new (decent) tyres all round (£600 for Vred's) & f/r discs/pads (£650 for parts only). If not, simply factor it into the price.
A good buyers guide is here: http://forums.m3cutters.co.uk/showthread.php?t=285...
Basically, if you do buy one, keep a grand in the bank in case the HG goes.
Sorry Sir Dave but I must disagree on points 4 and 5 1. Service history is a must, also ring the dealer that 'did it' to check they actually did it.
2. Ring BMW Customer services to ensure all recalls have been done. On pre June '03 cars it will need to have had a bearing recall done. They can also tell you when it has been to a BMW dealer.
3. 1200 mile running in service needs to have been done, up to 1600 miles is ok iirc.
4. Rear subframe issues affect all cars, BMW will fix up to 10 years, after that you're on your own, & its a rather expensive repair. Go here for more info: http://forums.m3cutters.co.uk/showthread.php?t=332...
5. Headgaskets also go, unless you can do a compression/leakdown test on the test drive, there's a strong possibility that it will go, has nothing to do with servicing etc, it just breaks. Again, more info here: http://forums.m3cutters.co.uk/showthread.php?t=886... Costs about £1-2k to fix depending on where you go.
6. As per any other cars, try & buy one that has just had an Inspection 2 (£600-£900 at a specialist, £350 in parts only), new (decent) tyres all round (£600 for Vred's) & f/r discs/pads (£650 for parts only). If not, simply factor it into the price.
A good buyers guide is here: http://forums.m3cutters.co.uk/showthread.php?t=285...
Basically, if you do buy one, keep a grand in the bank in case the HG goes.
The subframe issue has the potential to affect all E46 models but the actual failure rate is very small - 1 in 80. Plus for a few hundred smokes you can buy the structuring foam and use as a preventative measure. The affected cars tend to be ones that have been lowered and driven harder than most.
HGF is very uncommon as a whole and is not a certainty or even a strong possibility. Of course its possible but so is a seized water pump or light bulb failure
Ryvita said:
I'm a bit further behind Mattudor, just starting to do my research (It's still between an M3 and a Supra...) Hence a few additional questions:
What's a decent low end price to start looking at? 10K+? 7K+?
I appreciate always buy on condition rather than miles, but is high mileage a particular issue? 100K?
Are there any particular things to look for when inspecting a car/known achilees heel to ask about?
You should be in a nice one for about £10000. I paid £9000 for mine but spent £1200 on an inspection 1, belts, Einbach suspension and clutch. This was because it was stiff to get into 1st and reverse when cold (Manual gearbox) Quite common where the splines corrode, its a gearbox off job to clean and lubricate it but whilst your at it you may aswell pop a clutch in as they are only about £140 for a OEM LUK clutch kit. I could of lived with it as it wasnt too bad, but i wanted it to be right. Its a lot lighter now too. The rear springs had snapped so went for Einbach springs.What's a decent low end price to start looking at? 10K+? 7K+?
I appreciate always buy on condition rather than miles, but is high mileage a particular issue? 100K?
Are there any particular things to look for when inspecting a car/known achilees heel to ask about?
Mine is a 2003 52 plate in Imola red with 71k miles on with Sat Nav, heated memory seats, rear blind etc, just no HK stereo, which i would recommend if you can get it and only the 18" wheels, but they are just refurbed with new Continentals all round.
Its half the price of my last one, which although it only had 36000 miles on 4 years ago cost me about the same on service items....brakes suspension parts etc.
These are/ were mine:
Pig Skill said:
Sorry Sir Dave but I must disagree on points 4 and 5
The subframe issue has the potential to affect all E46 models but the actual failure rate is very small - 1 in 80. Plus for a few hundred smokes you can buy the structuring foam and use as a preventative measure. The affected cars tend to be ones that have been lowered and driven harder than most.
HGF is very uncommon as a whole and is not a certainty or even a strong possibility. Of course its possible but so is a seized water pump or light bulb failure
Re: the subframe, i agree on preventative measures, but as i said, if you are the 1/80, & the car is over 10 years old, its bloody expensive, so imho, something to consider.The subframe issue has the potential to affect all E46 models but the actual failure rate is very small - 1 in 80. Plus for a few hundred smokes you can buy the structuring foam and use as a preventative measure. The affected cars tend to be ones that have been lowered and driven harder than most.
HGF is very uncommon as a whole and is not a certainty or even a strong possibility. Of course its possible but so is a seized water pump or light bulb failure
Re: the HGF, mine is currently being done, & to be honest, if i didnt specifically know what i was looking for/did a compression test, i probably wouldnt even have noticed. They go between cylinders, so no coolant loss, drive exactly the same, no emissions problems, warnings on the diagnostics, etc. Mine has full BMW/specialist history & out of the 5 people i know with M3's, 4 have gone ... maybe we're unlucky.
Great info guys, really appreciate it.
Bit off topic for my next question, one of the M3's I want to have a look at has what I think is a factory spoiler fitted. Personally I don't like the way it looks which is a shame because the rest of the spec is ideal. Does anyone know if these spoilers are easily removed or would it require paintwork etc?
Bit off topic for my next question, one of the M3's I want to have a look at has what I think is a factory spoiler fitted. Personally I don't like the way it looks which is a shame because the rest of the spec is ideal. Does anyone know if these spoilers are easily removed or would it require paintwork etc?
Mattudor said:
Great info guys, really appreciate it.
Bit off topic for my next question, one of the M3's I want to have a look at has what I think is a factory spoiler fitted. Personally I don't like the way it looks which is a shame because the rest of the spec is ideal. Does anyone know if these spoilers are easily removed or would it require paintwork etc?
They aren't hard to get removed but it's likely you'd need the top of the bootlid tidying up. Bit off topic for my next question, one of the M3's I want to have a look at has what I think is a factory spoiler fitted. Personally I don't like the way it looks which is a shame because the rest of the spec is ideal. Does anyone know if these spoilers are easily removed or would it require paintwork etc?
Excellent advice. Thanks guys. I'd found the M3cutters forum already (Why is it called that???), those are excellent threads, very informative.
Is there any similar resource on the VANOS issue?
I'll start test driving this weekend I think, before the ice starts forming... *wonders again why he is ditching 4wd for RWD just before winter...*
Is there any similar resource on the VANOS issue?
I'll start test driving this weekend I think, before the ice starts forming... *wonders again why he is ditching 4wd for RWD just before winter...*
Edited by Ryvita on Wednesday 5th October 10:58
Ryvita said:
Can anyone recommend a good independant/dealership in the Woking/Guildford area?.
might be a bit far away but could try http://www.cpcpe.com/page1.html I've not used them but read a lot of good reports, Munich legends did my pre-purchase inspection on the CSL and were very thorough Gassing Station | M Power | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff