Extending the LS7 Loom
Discussion
I am not wholly happy about the position of my ECU being inside the rear clip over the off-side tank. The reason why it is there at the moment is because the loom sent by my engine supplier is fairly short and not as long as the factory one, and the cost that AS quoted for one of their long ones was horrendous!
I am not sure if my concerns are founded, but engine compartment temps might have an undersirable effect on the unit down the line, and then once the project is finished, the cab on etc it will likely be more difficult to relocate.
Given I am reasonable with the soldering iron etc, and an average ameteur at wiring, I am thinking about extending the loom myself by adding the additional length needed to each wire in the main trunk before the ECU connectors etc. I know it will be a lot of repetative work but approached carefully is there anything that might cause problems (obviously using the correct wires and colours if I can get them)?
The intention is to lengthen the trunk so the ECU can sit inside the cab, or in the back of the off-side pod.
I can't find any 'extenders' for the LS7 loom so this seems to be my only economic option.
I am not sure if my concerns are founded, but engine compartment temps might have an undersirable effect on the unit down the line, and then once the project is finished, the cab on etc it will likely be more difficult to relocate.
Given I am reasonable with the soldering iron etc, and an average ameteur at wiring, I am thinking about extending the loom myself by adding the additional length needed to each wire in the main trunk before the ECU connectors etc. I know it will be a lot of repetative work but approached carefully is there anything that might cause problems (obviously using the correct wires and colours if I can get them)?
The intention is to lengthen the trunk so the ECU can sit inside the cab, or in the back of the off-side pod.
I can't find any 'extenders' for the LS7 loom so this seems to be my only economic option.
No useful answers to your questions, but I can recommend Vehicle Wiring Products:
http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu
No affiliation, just a happy customer.
http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu
No affiliation, just a happy customer.
Keith
the ecu will be fine as long as its not very close to the exhausts or going to get seriously wet. If you can find a dry cool place for the fuse box that would be advisable.
Some of the wires are sheilded and cutting etc could cause problems. If you want to lengthen the wiring i can give you the name of someone who will be able to do it for you.
the ecu will be fine as long as its not very close to the exhausts or going to get seriously wet. If you can find a dry cool place for the fuse box that would be advisable.
Some of the wires are sheilded and cutting etc could cause problems. If you want to lengthen the wiring i can give you the name of someone who will be able to do it for you.
Hi
You are fine doing this. Make sure that there is enough solder and that you do not over heat the insulation, then use tyco CGAT heatshrink because this is tough stuff and is adhesive lined so give a sealed and strain relieved joint. Also you will notice a few CAN wires (twisted pair or tan and tan and black), try and maintain the twist for your extension. In addition you will also notice a screened cable that goes to the throttle body, do this cable separately with screened wire and maintain the screen after you have soldered them all by wrapping tin foil and then heatshrink.
Not a problem, and while crimping is good for so many reasons, good soldering can be just as reliable.
A better way of doing this is to use Deutsch metal shell connectors and insert a length via connectors, this is what I have done, and do for professional looms that I have to make from time to time.
Regards,
Gareth
You are fine doing this. Make sure that there is enough solder and that you do not over heat the insulation, then use tyco CGAT heatshrink because this is tough stuff and is adhesive lined so give a sealed and strain relieved joint. Also you will notice a few CAN wires (twisted pair or tan and tan and black), try and maintain the twist for your extension. In addition you will also notice a screened cable that goes to the throttle body, do this cable separately with screened wire and maintain the screen after you have soldered them all by wrapping tin foil and then heatshrink.
Not a problem, and while crimping is good for so many reasons, good soldering can be just as reliable.
A better way of doing this is to use Deutsch metal shell connectors and insert a length via connectors, this is what I have done, and do for professional looms that I have to make from time to time.
Regards,
Gareth
I'm afraid I can't really add any advice to your question, but as I was going to put a similar post up about the LS3 loom and this is so similar i thought it best to keep it all in the same place and it may be able to help others planning an LS installation.
My question is this:
I'm about to do the final fit on the bodywork and I'm going to use an LS3, before i rivet the side pods in place do I need to install any further wiring between the front and back other than the standard ultima wiring loom ( I stated that I would be using an LS3 when I originally ordered the loom ). The factory also list an LS7 extension loom but they say this is not for the LS3 so should I be aware of having to install anything else e.g. The fly by wire cabling, other wiring that will come with the engine or ecu cabling ( although this thread seems to answer that for me)
Cheers and I hope I'm not hijacking your thread with this
Pete
My question is this:
I'm about to do the final fit on the bodywork and I'm going to use an LS3, before i rivet the side pods in place do I need to install any further wiring between the front and back other than the standard ultima wiring loom ( I stated that I would be using an LS3 when I originally ordered the loom ). The factory also list an LS7 extension loom but they say this is not for the LS3 so should I be aware of having to install anything else e.g. The fly by wire cabling, other wiring that will come with the engine or ecu cabling ( although this thread seems to answer that for me)
Cheers and I hope I'm not hijacking your thread with this
Pete
Best to use smooth wall trunking or run a draw cable through and tie off at each end.
Remember when pulling a cable through to also pull a draw cord as well, so you are able to pull another cable through at a later date.
Probably teaching how to suck eggs but thought it worth a mention.
Paul
Remember when pulling a cable through to also pull a draw cord as well, so you are able to pull another cable through at a later date.
Probably teaching how to suck eggs but thought it worth a mention.
Paul
Pete - get all your LS3 loom parts and pre-fit before putting your body on, unless you like making life hard for yourself!
You'll need an LS throttle pedal assembly and wiring, which obviously runs from the footwell upto your ECU. Talking of which, do you know where you're putting the ECU? If you're going for the side pod like many do, you'll need to prepare the luggage container for big bunches of wires and connectors coming in from the back and a smaller set going out the front. The rear wires are all those that head to the engine (obviously), but out the front you've got the power / ignition wiring plus the OBD, etc.
Earls do some big cable glands but they're pricy... Instead, I've put some 70mm holes in the front and rear faces of my luggage pod and then (sandwiched with an ally plate with the same size hole in it) riveted in a piece of insertion rubber with a smaller 30mm hole in it... Bingo, front and rear glands to pass all my ECU wires thru'
I also have some 32mm tubes running thru' each luggage container incase I need to run and other wires from front to back in the future.
HTH
Mark
You'll need an LS throttle pedal assembly and wiring, which obviously runs from the footwell upto your ECU. Talking of which, do you know where you're putting the ECU? If you're going for the side pod like many do, you'll need to prepare the luggage container for big bunches of wires and connectors coming in from the back and a smaller set going out the front. The rear wires are all those that head to the engine (obviously), but out the front you've got the power / ignition wiring plus the OBD, etc.
Earls do some big cable glands but they're pricy... Instead, I've put some 70mm holes in the front and rear faces of my luggage pod and then (sandwiched with an ally plate with the same size hole in it) riveted in a piece of insertion rubber with a smaller 30mm hole in it... Bingo, front and rear glands to pass all my ECU wires thru'
I also have some 32mm tubes running thru' each luggage container incase I need to run and other wires from front to back in the future.
HTH
Mark
Top stuff, i'm glad I asked this, I'll hold off with the final fix on the side pods.
I already have some 25mm conduit fitted behind the luggage containers for any extra cabling, but it sounds like that's nowhere near big enough.
Mark: this may sound daft, but with regards to the LS loom, was the standard one that came with the ECU long enough and did it all come with the throttle pedal parts? Also can you recommend a good supplier as I've heard that PWP ( parts world) is possibly not the place to get the ecu (although I intend to get the engine from them shortly).
Pete
I already have some 25mm conduit fitted behind the luggage containers for any extra cabling, but it sounds like that's nowhere near big enough.
Mark: this may sound daft, but with regards to the LS loom, was the standard one that came with the ECU long enough and did it all come with the throttle pedal parts? Also can you recommend a good supplier as I've heard that PWP ( parts world) is possibly not the place to get the ecu (although I intend to get the engine from them shortly).
Pete
chucknorris said:
.....Also can you recommend a good supplier as I've heard that PWP ( parts world) is possibly not the place to get the ecu (although I intend to get the engine from them shortly).
Pete
We would recommend getting the engine from Parts World and the ancilliaries, loom, ECU from American Speed.Pete
If possible get a pre 2008 engine from parts world as the throttle body needs to be compatible with the loom/ECU from AS.
Steve
No point doing all that outside the car, as soon as you shut that rear clip and the engine, headers, cats, fuel system all get hot things change A LOT. Optimise and check on an engine dyno, fit it to the car then tweak and adjust to the required levels. An engine will run beautifully on a dyno then be completely different in the car. Cats also behave differently on a dyno to under a hot rear clip.
Youve got it all sorted though so good luck.
Youve got it all sorted though so good luck.
356Speedster said:
Depends how you do it, Kyle.... My full drivetrain, electrics and exhaust will be dyno'd / optimised together before install to minimise issues and keep me more on plug and play, rather that plug and prey!
If only it were that simple... He-he.The basic engine dyno is a rough dial in at very best, as stated once in the car and set up on rollers you are still only part way there.. In-car mapping on the day with the whole combo operating properly is the only 100% method... dont be fooled.
What applies in F1 tech can still be relevent at a lower level.
Any real experienced, top-end people care to differ ?
Edited by 738 driver on Monday 10th October 19:44
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