Radiator sender unit?
Discussion
I am changing my leaking rad for another kindly donated to the cause, (
Jammy).
The new rad from a later model has a largish tapped apperture on the inside face for, I guess a temp sender, mine hasn't!
Has anyone got an old sender to plug the hole or, can they let me know size and thread, (probably BSP I guess)?
No rush, as I am pulling the engine again
.
One day in the not too distant future, I hope to use one of these guys,
! Till then....
Jammy).The new rad from a later model has a largish tapped apperture on the inside face for, I guess a temp sender, mine hasn't!
Has anyone got an old sender to plug the hole or, can they let me know size and thread, (probably BSP I guess)?
No rush, as I am pulling the engine again
.One day in the not too distant future, I hope to use one of these guys,
! Till then....Johno said:
Ribol said:
They do to do it properly, hence the comment.
Errr, no they don't, but we'll agree to disagree. It's only brazing just like when the bleed screw on my old rad came loose, not need to remove end cap to braze it back.Hence my comment
The OP has inherited a used rad which he would like to re-use.
As most people who have worked on cars a bit will know if you take a perfectly good rad out of a car and even just put it back in the same car there is always a chance the move will prompt it to start leaking somewhere. They are fragile due to the endless heat cycles the soldered joints have been put through.
Soldering anywhere near the seam of an old rad can unsettle the existing solder enough to create a new leak somewhere local to the soldering, if it doesn't you got away with it. When you reassemble a complete rad after you have blown it down and recored it there isn't a problem the solder is all new and will stay where it is.
If as in your case you have a leaky rad because the bleed screw boss has come loose you have nothing to lose by trying to solder it because it is fluked anyway (you don't braze rads BTW).
So, my advice to the OP based on my experience is put a switch/blank in it and quit while you are ahead.
Best locations for otter switch in descending order IMHO:
1. Rad outlet side (cool)
2. Rad inlet side (hot)
3. Swirl Tank
To use the version that you have all that is needed is a bit more wire. If you rewire it properly (ie down the wing to the nose cone) it also has advantages of less wiring in the engine bay which is a bonus when you remove the engine & less likely to get the eventual heat or mechanical vibration deteriorations. It's just one wire to run and link the other connector to the ground under the rad. Considering removing the bung rather than just temporarily plugging it sounds completely barmy to me, I'd consider moving the bung to the outlet side if having the rad rebuilt but otherwise no need to do anything. You'll probably get a bung for next to nothing at a decent hydraulic pipe place BTW.
1. Rad outlet side (cool)
2. Rad inlet side (hot)
3. Swirl Tank
To use the version that you have all that is needed is a bit more wire. If you rewire it properly (ie down the wing to the nose cone) it also has advantages of less wiring in the engine bay which is a bonus when you remove the engine & less likely to get the eventual heat or mechanical vibration deteriorations. It's just one wire to run and link the other connector to the ground under the rad. Considering removing the bung rather than just temporarily plugging it sounds completely barmy to me, I'd consider moving the bung to the outlet side if having the rad rebuilt but otherwise no need to do anything. You'll probably get a bung for next to nothing at a decent hydraulic pipe place BTW.
Lot's of advice, cheers guys.
My rad has been in the back of my Disco travelling around London for the last 2 days, nothing done yet!
Spend, are you saying, stick an otter switch in the rad and it will perform the same as in the swirl tank but keeps the wiring fresh, (must admit it is hard and brittle)?
My rad has been in the back of my Disco travelling around London for the last 2 days, nothing done yet!
Spend, are you saying, stick an otter switch in the rad and it will perform the same as in the swirl tank but keeps the wiring fresh, (must admit it is hard and brittle)?
haircutmike said:
Spend, are you saying, stick an otter switch in the rad and it will perform the same as in the swirl tank but keeps the wiring fresh, (must admit it is hard and brittle)?
It is the better solution than in the swirl tank or blanking permanently or temporarilly. Better solution than any of us came up with
Basically yes Peter.
I still don't hold with logic Johno & co use that the otter switch is not necessary when you have the ecu control the fans BTW. Like the door switches & interior lights the fan relay can be grounded anywhere, so keeping the otter switch as a fail-safe back up is far more sensible IMHO, just make sure the switch is of such a temp rating that it only comes in after the ecu control, and less work? Penalty of a few grammes extra weight, far less than a dump for you fat barstewards, probably just wipe your bum a bit better for an equivalent weight saving when you need it
:rofl
I still don't hold with logic Johno & co use that the otter switch is not necessary when you have the ecu control the fans BTW. Like the door switches & interior lights the fan relay can be grounded anywhere, so keeping the otter switch as a fail-safe back up is far more sensible IMHO, just make sure the switch is of such a temp rating that it only comes in after the ecu control, and less work? Penalty of a few grammes extra weight, far less than a dump for you fat barstewards, probably just wipe your bum a bit better for an equivalent weight saving when you need it
:roflJohno said:
Thank goodness we have you on the forum as the bloke who has worked on cars a bit, none of the rest of us has by your implication.
I didn't imply that anywhere - since you didn't get it the first time, what I said was that anyone who had had to take rads in/out of a cars a good few times will have come across the situation that I described where they start leaking for no good reason.The object of the excercise here was to help the OP with sound advice based on experience, nothing more.
Whilst you are at it Peter, there is also another odd ball with the purge valve wiring.
Early cars routed the 2 wires from the dash area over the wing & around the nose to the purge valve. Later ones straight through the engine bay. Personally I'd convert to run through the wing if you don't have it, for similar reasons above ie better protected from heat, movement etc. and a lot easier if removing engine or body...
Early cars routed the 2 wires from the dash area over the wing & around the nose to the purge valve. Later ones straight through the engine bay. Personally I'd convert to run through the wing if you don't have it, for similar reasons above ie better protected from heat, movement etc. and a lot easier if removing engine or body...
haircutmike said:
I've had so much delivered recently cause of the engine rebuild, (twice), it's like Christmas come early except that I'm paying for it!
That's the experience most married men have (speaking from observation rather than direct experience), during that period in life when Mrs. TVRFanatic is home looking after the young one(s).It's all a matter of perspective so enjoy it, it is like Christmas, except you are receiving presents you actually wanted!
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