Gentlemen. Place your bets....

[Goodwin]

TVR Chimaera 1994 4.o Pre serp. No PAS no A/C

Had it since may - running fine then all of a sudden this week it started playing up. Monday it kept stalling and wouldn't idle. I spotted a loose connection to the AFM and after that it seemed fine. Then...
Yesterday starts fine and idles so I'm happy nothing abnormal. About 10 minutes into the drive the car all of a sudden feels flat as though these little power. It still producing some but clearly off form, oil pressure and water all are normal and battery light is out so nothing immediately obvious, no misfire sound or backfiring, so i turn around and start limping home when all of a sudden it just comes right. Writing it off as "TVR thing" (this is my third TVR) I turn around and head to work without further incident. Driving home about 7:30 ca starts as normal and I head home down the A404M. On reaching th elights at the M4 junction I have to stop and as I do so the car just dies. Despite about a dozen attempts it will not restart, starter turns car just about coughs (Show 1000 on tacho) but will not rev and immediately dies - so car pushed to hard shoulder with the assistance of some very friendly and decent BiB (Thanks guys) and the AA called.

45 Minute later recover truck turns up and the bloody thing starts first time and idles sweetly for about 20 minutes with no issues. Had it recovered to local specialist anyway as not overly happy using it on the Motorway just in case.

I'll help you out with some history:-

Car had new cam and some other work about a year - 18 months ago with previous owner. No issues runs fine (Normally)
Alternator was replaced 3 months ago - still working fine
Immobiliser is a Cobra not a Meta and starter motor would still turn.
Rotor Arm, Dizzy and HT leads were replaced about 1000 miles ago - HT leads were all secure(I checked when it stopped)
AFM connection was secure (I checked when it stopped)

So place your bets - what is the cause? Rough Cost? No prize beyond glory for the winner (and I will admit to his superior TVR knowledge) :-)

[Simon says]

Well 1st things 1st,when the motor dies you need to find out if you still have a spark at the plugs if so I would consider the fuel pump(possibly)if you lose spark then failing ign modules and coils can give very erratic running faults but as you can see this is very much like a doctor without a patient for us whatever you do don't go changing parts willy nilly

[Ribol]

Goodwin said:

45 Minute later recover truck turns up and the bloody thing starts first time and idles sweetly for about 20 minutes with no issues.

If we are allowed to guess, coil followed by ignition module.

[MADMAX2]

Ribol said:

Goodwin said:

45 Minute later recover truck turns up and the bloody thing starts first time and idles sweetly for about 20 minutes with no issues.

If we are allowed to guess, coil followed by ignition module.

+1

If you get a new coil get the original replacement part

[Simon says]

MADMAX2 said:

Ribol said:

Goodwin said:

45 Minute later recover truck turns up and the bloody thing starts first time and idles sweetly for about 20 minutes with no issues.

If we are allowed to guess, coil followed by ignition module.

+1

If you get a new coil get the original replacement part

Same with the module try to get new old stock Lucas as the pattern ones are ste here you go http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Rover-Metro-Ignition-Mod... getting harder to locate nowadays

[so called]

I used to have a problem with my plug leads arching onto the alu heat shield on the underside of the bonnet. Gave similsr effect.

[nawarne]

Ribol said:

If we are allowed to guess, coil followed by ignition module.

^^^^ My thoughts too.
Period to cool down - coil recovers - engine restarts. Also symptomatic of ignition module/amplifier failure.

However, as someone else has suggested make the obvoius checks when the FAULT OCCURS- viz - check spark at plugs/fuel getting to engine etc etc. Else you'll replace lots of bits that may not be the cause of the problem.

Nick

[lestershaw]

Try turning it over in the dark so you can see if it's arcing anywhere, it worked for me once the bolt had come off the coil holder and the inertia when I accelerated or braked caused the coil to move and then arc out

[mattrosersv]

Nobody mentioned 100 amp fuse yet....

If your run to work was a long one maybe not, but when this happened to me it went very erratic and I nursed it at least 5 miles drivng in stop start traffic. It would. Stop then start and run fine for a while.

This did not illuminate battery light.

I would check this first as it is a cheap fix!

[Goodwin]

Thanks for the ideas so far.

No 100Amp fuse - too early. Racong Green suspect coil or ignition amp also but not had time to diagnose yet. I have also heard that frequently if one goes the other will follow shortly. Any thoughts?

Thanks All