Brake and clutch judder
Brake and clutch judder
Author
Discussion

mrzigazaga

Original Poster:

18,816 posts

195 months

Thursday 13th October 2011
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Hi Peeps..I know they are not related but it just seems a bit of a coincidence that i have developed a brake judder at the same time as the clutch started doing it..The clutch only judders a tiny amount on pull away but its not affecting gear change..The brake judder is only on braking at slow speeds but im hoping its not a result of braking heavily (Emergency braking) whilst bedding in the new pads..However it has only been noticeable since then..Im wondering if my discs are now damaged..There is a ticking whistling type noise which is there all the time but gets a little louder when braking..Otherwise its very faint..The judder can be felt in the pedal and steering wheel so i would imagine its the fronts but the noise sounds like its coming from the rears..I had front and rear pads fitted a few months back..I think they were greenstuff..Ill have to check the receipts..Cheers..Ziga

Lean Machine

2,715 posts

195 months

Thursday 13th October 2011
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I doubt very much that the braking has any connection to the clutch. Its probably just coincidence. When a clutch begins to judder on moving off, its usualy a sign of a worn friction plate or weak cover, but on these cars as long as there is no slipping under load should last for a long time yet. As for the braking I would guess that the noise coming from the back was probably always there and you never noticed it, only the juddering from the front has made you more alert to braking noises. It could be anything on the front really, maybe warped disc or damaged pads, hard to say without examining. I had new discs and pads fitted on the front of one of my cars (not a Wedge) and within months it started to judder. If its not too bad and you can live with it then fine but with brakes (and I don't want to scare you, I would'nt take a chance as I,d hate to put my foot down one day and find nothing happens. Good luck and stay safe.

Campbell

2,500 posts

313 months

Thursday 13th October 2011
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Non cluch brake related, if the bolts that hold your seats down are like mine then it will be one bold down through the floor and to remove i jammed a spanner in the runner and unwound the nut from under neath.
When i put the seats back in i wound and nut onto the bold to fix to the runner firts and then fitted the seats backin with wooden battens to fix the angle of the seat and also the nuts dont hit the floor of the car.

As for your brakes i would take of the front wheels and check the pads arnt loss and the pins havent moved and there is plenty of meat on them.
As for the cluch you could try bleeding it to see if that makes any difference if not just live with it intil there is a prob.

Cambelt

Mr Tank

5,799 posts

305 months

Thursday 13th October 2011
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Mark

What's next!

Or should I say what's left on your car, which has not given you problems!

You have recently spent over £900 on the car and now the brakes and clutch are juddering!

This saga is really now becoming unbelievable!

Andy

Lean Machine

2,715 posts

195 months

Friday 14th October 2011
quotequote all
The only other solution is to take the engine and gearbox out to make it lighter, cut a hole in the floor, pick it up and run like they did in the Flintstones. Only joking! Look, like us humans, when cars get old there are certain things that malfunction which we have to accept and live with. It will probably be years before these things need fixing. So, just enjoy the drive.

mrzigazaga

Original Poster:

18,816 posts

195 months

Friday 14th October 2011
quotequote all
Mr Tank said:
Mark

What's next!

Or should I say what's left on your car, which has not given you problems!

You have recently spent over £900 on the car and now the brakes and clutch are juddering!

This saga is really now becoming unbelievable!

Andy
Well lets face it mate..It was locked in a garage for over ten years and it is a running restoration project so im not counting the pennies and nor should anyone else be really..I dont go out socialising..I havent had a real holiday for many years..I dont smoke..Im single and all that matters is that i can pay my rent..food..internet..car insurance and tax so im a happy bunny..When its all done i will be keeping it anyway so even if it cost me 10K then spread over 10 years is less than ive spent on st cars in the past..Im not a quitter..Once i start something i have to finish it, Whatever the cost..Its a sense of acheivement and one day i will be able to stand back and feel proud..Or stand even further back and flick a match!!..The choice is mine.."Some say he sleeps upside down with his head in a bucket of poisonous snakes and that fuel runs through his veins at 200psi".."All we know is hes called the Zig"..hehe

Lean Machine

2,715 posts

195 months

Friday 14th October 2011
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[quote=mrzigazaga]
'Im not a quitter..Once i start something i have to finish it, Whatever the cost..Its a sense of acheivement and one day i will be able to stand back and feel proud.'

You know what Zig? We are all proud of you now...
Tony.

jeff m2

2,060 posts

181 months

Friday 14th October 2011
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Mark,
I'm guessing that green pads are "super 'ard"
If they are then then the judder should dissapear once they have warmed up a bit.

I'm not going to get into the whole "bag of worms" argument over hard and soft pads and their applications, but if your discs feel like a well used 45 rpm record when you run your fingernail over them hard pads will not seat easily.

Couple of options, get the discs skimmed or cut or whatever the South London venacular issmile (made smooth). It is possible you disc may have been "cut" too many times and may not have enough meat left for another.

In which case a softer pad may solve your problem.

Changing pads is not difficult, once the wheel is off it really is a 10 minute job. Pull pins, clean em, spray with copper anti seize. Waggle old pads to push back pistons. Pull them out along with the shims. Clean shims, spray shims and the back of new pads with anti sqeal. Reassemble, press brake pedal to push pistons back....do other side.

There are a couple of other things to check but assuming your green pads were put in by a mech then I've omitted them.


mrzigazaga

Original Poster:

18,816 posts

195 months

Friday 14th October 2011
quotequote all
Thanks chaps..I will check the discs as the hard pads might be the cause..Cheers..Ziga

combine

3,114 posts

259 months

Friday 14th October 2011
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Zig , how many miles have you done since buying your wedge ?

The Hatter

988 posts

200 months

Friday 14th October 2011
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Could just be unequal corrosion due to lack of use with the probs you've been having. Use them hard and regularly and it will probably clear.

mrzigazaga

Original Poster:

18,816 posts

195 months

Friday 14th October 2011
quotequote all
combine said:
Zig , how many miles have you done since buying your wedge ?
Hi Mate..Not as many as i would like but i think its around 3,000..

350zwelgje

1,820 posts

291 months

Friday 14th October 2011
quotequote all
On the brakes:
When were the brakes bled for the last time?
When was the brake fluid renewed?
These are the two questions I always ask myself when judder with the brakes occur as it could be a simple fix... to bleed and if necessary replace the fluid. Why replace the fluid, as it absorbs water and if over a certain limit brake judder can be a sign and replacement is the only solution. Not too difficult and not too pricey. Mininum use DOT 4 spec, myself live with DOT5.1 (bit more expensive but nice on a track as no boiling fading etc with the front 4-pot big disc setup).
Used and use EBC green and no issues. Just a bit of pad out, but this is due to the large 300mm front discs.

Clutch: Seems that you have to live with that. If no know the parts are ok and you are too gently with the clutch (or not enough use), a couple of grand prix starts could be a cure. NO GUARANTEE....
If not, probably you need to replace the clutch and related parts after that, if it starts slipping (probably without judder). Think on the V6 the box can be removed from underneath and no engine out etc. necessary as for a V8 (just did that on my 350i half a year ago). So should not be an arm and a leg to replace the clutch as on a V8. You see there are advantages to a V6 over a V8 wink as the chassis was designed for it and not for the V8!

Rob

mrzigazaga

Original Poster:

18,816 posts

195 months

Friday 14th October 2011
quotequote all
I had new pads fitted about 4 months ago...I think the fluid is probably still the original..It certainly sat for ten years so would be worth replacing..Cheers..Ziga

JMF894

6,641 posts

185 months

Friday 14th October 2011
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mrzigazaga said:
I had new pads fitted about 4 months ago...I think the fluid is probably still the original..It certainly sat for ten years so would be worth replacing..Cheers..Ziga
Errr.....YES!!!!!!

combine

3,114 posts

259 months

Saturday 15th October 2011
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mrzigazaga said:
Hi Mate..Not as many as i would like but i think its around 3,000..
Thats not bad for a wedge , especially since its had one or two headaches.

mrzigazaga

Original Poster:

18,816 posts

195 months

Saturday 15th October 2011
quotequote all
Hi peeps..Ive just remembered that when rooodboy did the rear brakes the bleed screw wouldnt budge and he didnt want to snap it off so they never got bled..So at some point that is going to have to be addressed..I imagine the calipers will need to come off to get to the screw?..Perhaps find an old set and have them refurbed..Brakes are something that shouldnt be ignored and i for one am very concious of the fact especially after experiencing an horrific RTA some years ago where upon someone died!!..Even though my car was in tip top condition at the time...Cheers..Ziga

350zwelgje

1,820 posts

291 months

Saturday 15th October 2011
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Think wedg1e once explained a 'workaround' in this situation: undo the brake pipe to this caliper. At least you can replace the fluid and have a bit of bleeding. Not expensive (no parts additional to the fluid), messy but it can be done and you have better brakes.

Rob