A few shots with the D7000
Discussion
I got a lot of advice on buying my first "proper" camera a month or two back, and went for the highly recommended Nikon D7000.
Still very much on a learning curve with it, and getting most of my shots by using the scene selector, which sets the camera up for me on portrait or night or sport or whatever.
Anyway, thought I'd post up a few of the results of using it, see what you all thought since so many of you helped with the advice in getting it. Here we go:
Still very much on a learning curve with it, and getting most of my shots by using the scene selector, which sets the camera up for me on portrait or night or sport or whatever.
Anyway, thought I'd post up a few of the results of using it, see what you all thought since so many of you helped with the advice in getting it. Here we go:
Some good hits and a few misses there, but you probably know which is which. Good start.
Try to wean yourself off scene selectors - it's clear there isn't one for squirrels (maybe squirrel mode is a plugin?) and see things in terms of composition, focus and exposure. Exposure is aperture + shutter speed, and to a lesser extent ISO. Then you can choose the ones you think best for the subject.
So identify the misses and decide what's wrong with then, then ponder what you could have done to make them better.
Try to wean yourself off scene selectors - it's clear there isn't one for squirrels (maybe squirrel mode is a plugin?) and see things in terms of composition, focus and exposure. Exposure is aperture + shutter speed, and to a lesser extent ISO. Then you can choose the ones you think best for the subject.
So identify the misses and decide what's wrong with then, then ponder what you could have done to make them better.
Simpo Two said:
Some good hits and a few misses there, but you probably know which is which. Good start.
Try to wean yourself off scene selectors - it's clear there isn't one for squirrels (maybe squirrel mode is a plugin?) and see things in terms of composition, focus and exposure. Exposure is aperture + shutter speed, and to a lesser extent ISO. Then you can choose the ones you think best for the subject.
So identify the misses and decide what's wrong with then, then ponder what you could have done to make them better.
Thank you Try to wean yourself off scene selectors - it's clear there isn't one for squirrels (maybe squirrel mode is a plugin?) and see things in terms of composition, focus and exposure. Exposure is aperture + shutter speed, and to a lesser extent ISO. Then you can choose the ones you think best for the subject.
So identify the misses and decide what's wrong with then, then ponder what you could have done to make them better.
Interestingly, there sort of is a "squirrel mode", it has a setting for pets so I used that. In fairness they were some way off and I cropped them down.
But you're right, I need to try and get my head around the aperture/shutter speed/ISO triangle.
Here's a better squirrel shot for you.
Ari said:
Interestingly, there sort of is a "squirrel mode", it has a setting for pets so I used that.
Ah well that's the problem, squirrels aren't pets. Is there a 'woodland creatures (rodents, small)' mode? 
Well no, to be more precise pic 1 simply has the focus on the tail not the eyes (either the AF got it wrong or you used the wrong focus point) and in pic 2 Mr Squirrel legged it just before you pressed the button, leaving a beautifully sharp area of leaves where he was supposed to be
I think the blur actually captures something of the moment but it's not what you wanted. Third one is better in those respects but a pity his head is in shadow. But this is a wild animal in a wild place so mostly out of your control; all you can do is anticipate. 'Get Carter' does wildlife; maybe he can steer you from here?ETA: Long lenses get expensive but one to consider, if you want to shoot more small wild things, is the Nikon 70-300VR.
Edited by Simpo Two on Saturday 15th October 11:06
Great camera choice and nice shots.
I have a D90 but borrowed mates D7000 few weeks ago while I was shooting for BPM trade show at the NEC. Carried the D90 with 17-55 and D7000 with 70-300 on it.
Here are some of the D7000 shots. I had a flash set up on a stand at the edge of the stage.
I have a D90 but borrowed mates D7000 few weeks ago while I was shooting for BPM trade show at the NEC. Carried the D90 with 17-55 and D7000 with 70-300 on it.
Here are some of the D7000 shots. I had a flash set up on a stand at the edge of the stage.
It is a very fast lens when used at f1.8 and produces a very fine depth of field (I hope Im getting these terms correct).
I like it as it is relatively cheap, very fast and produces great images.
Here is one I took a few weeks ago with it:
So Simple - Explored by Adam Kennedy Photography, on Flickr
I like it as it is relatively cheap, very fast and produces great images.
Here is one I took a few weeks ago with it:
So Simple - Explored by Adam Kennedy Photography, on Flickr
cornet said:
I have a D90 but borrowed mates D7000 few weeks ago
How did you find the new generation compares?Adz The Rat said:
It is a very fast lens when used at f1.8 and produces a very fine depth of field (I hope Im getting these terms correct).
For the OP I'd explain that a 'fast' lens is one with a large maximum aperture (f1.8 perversely being larger than f4 etc). Hence they let more light in enabling you to use a faster shutter speed and still get the same exposure. Another feature of large apertures is that the depth of field (DOF) (ie amount of stuff fore and aft of the focus plane that's acceptably sharp) is very shallow. Sometimes shallow DOF makes a nice effect; at other times it's a nuisance, depending on what you want to do.Because there are very few glass elements in a 50mm lens they are generally affordable with very good image quality. So they're good value and handy for low light if you can live with the shallow DOF, but you lose the flexibility of a (slower) zoom lens. Using a zoom with higher ISO is another option. So consider the task you have first and then work back to the most suitable lens for it.
Simpo Two said:
cornet said:
I have a D90 but borrowed mates D7000 few weeks ago
How did you find the new generation compares?Weather sealing is nice to have but only really 100% useful if you have weather sealed lenses.
Video is obviously the major plus point as it's not longer limited to 5min. But then rarely use video mode anyway.
The thing that did annoy me a bit about the D7000 is that you can no longer program the function button on the front to change focus modes (centre, spot, multi point, 3d tracking). Instead there is now a button on the Manual/Autofocus switch which I found was in a really awkward place. I could probably learn to live with it though.
Overall no major complaints about the D7000, cracking camera and lives up to the D90's reputation.
If my D90 broke tomorrow I would consider replacing it with the D7000, however I would still be tempted to stump up the extra for the D300s. But then the D90 body is dirt cheap compared to both of them.... Would be a tough decision.
cornet said:
The thing that did annoy me a bit about the D7000 is that you can no longer program the function button on the front to change focus modes (centre, spot, multi point, 3d tracking).
Funny how important these things can be. I use that button for flash disable! (I always use single-point AF)
Simpo Two said:
cornet said:
The thing that did annoy me a bit about the D7000 is that you can no longer program the function button on the front to change focus modes (centre, spot, multi point, 3d tracking).
Funny how important these things can be. I use that button for flash disable! (I always use single-point AF)
cornet said:
Indeed, it's just what you're used to. Most of the time I do use single-point AF, switching to multi-point or 3d tracking in some situations. Can't see myself using it as a flash disable as If I'm using flash then it's my SB900 or SB600 which have easily accessible off switch
If I'm not sure whether I want fill-flash or not (eg a car driving past) I'll take two shots half a second apart, one with and one without. I couldn't reach up to turn the flash off in that time and would need to take my eye away from the VF. The only time I physically turn the flash off is for a church service if it's not allowed.(sorry, we're rambling!)
Simpo Two said:
cornet said:
Indeed, it's just what you're used to. Most of the time I do use single-point AF, switching to multi-point or 3d tracking in some situations. Can't see myself using it as a flash disable as If I'm using flash then it's my SB900 or SB600 which have easily accessible off switch
If I'm not sure whether I want fill-flash or not (eg a car driving past) I'll take two shots half a second apart, one with and one without. I couldn't reach up to turn the flash off in that time and would need to take my eye away from the VF. The only time I physically turn the flash off is for a church service if it's not allowed.(sorry, we're rambling!)
Just looked at your website, some nice stuff on there. In the mist of sorting mine out but as it's not my day job I don't have a whole lot of time to dedicate to it.
One day I might give my day job up and peruse photography but I need much more practice first.
(Yes we are rambling though we are still vaguely on topic
)Simpo Two said:
For the OP I'd explain that a 'fast' lens is one with a large maximum aperture (f1.8 perversely being larger than f4 etc). Hence they let more light in enabling you to use a faster shutter speed and still get the same exposure. Another feature of large apertures is that the depth of field (DOF) (ie amount of stuff fore and aft of the focus plane that's acceptably sharp) is very shallow. Sometimes shallow DOF makes a nice effect; at other times it's a nuisance, depending on what you want to do.
Because there are very few glass elements in a 50mm lens they are generally affordable with very good image quality. So they're good value and handy for low light if you can live with the shallow DOF, but you lose the flexibility of a (slower) zoom lens. Using a zoom with higher ISO is another option. So consider the task you have first and then work back to the most suitable lens for it.
That sounds really good. I quite like the shallow depth of field effect. I'll have to look into getting one.Because there are very few glass elements in a 50mm lens they are generally affordable with very good image quality. So they're good value and handy for low light if you can live with the shallow DOF, but you lose the flexibility of a (slower) zoom lens. Using a zoom with higher ISO is another option. So consider the task you have first and then work back to the most suitable lens for it.
Ari said:
Just had a look on Amazon, they've got 50mm lenses from under £100 to over £300. What should I be looking for?
f1.8 should be fast enough for almost everything, and much less expensive than the f1.4.You may find that 50mm on a crop sensor is slightly too long; if so consider a 35mm which would give a similar angle of view to what you see. That said, 50mm works well for portraits so it's your choice.
Nikon if you can afford it; Sigma/Tamron etc if more more cost-conscious. You could also consider a good s/h one from eBay etc.
Looks like the D7000 has an autofocus motor so any half-modern lens will autofocus. AF-D lenses are screw drive so a bit slow; AF-S is ultrasonic motor so faster and quieter.
Edited by Simpo Two on Sunday 16th October 20:07
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