Rebuilt / drive in / oil question
Discussion
Hi.
I recently bought a Tuscan MK1 with an engine rebuilt done in 2010.
Unfortunaely the company that did the rebuilt is gone for good and so I do not know what exactly has been done and at what milage.
But I was able to estimate, that the engine has covered about 3000 miles since the rebuilt.
Now the question is, do I need to drive the SpeedSix in again, exactly the same way it has to be done with a brand new engine? So up to 6000 miles with limited RPM and with 5W40 oil??
I can visually see, that the engine has been taken apart completely.... all new screws and all new seals... of cause that does not mean anything... but it seems that at least all bearings have been done, as the oil-pressure is very high with 5W40.
So after 3000 miles on the rebuilt engine, it is still running on 5W40 like sugested by the handbook/mytuscan.co.uk.
but the pressure is very high on this oil, at least indicating that all the bearings are tight fits. Pressure is (warm engine) 24 psi when idle and up to 80 psi when reving up. So really pretty high...
Should I stay whith these high psi values for the next 3000 miles, in case these high pressures are needed for running the engine in correctly, or should I change to synthetic 0W40 or even 0W30?
And do I also need to keep the revs low during this time?
Maybe someone here knows what would be best!?
...and what is the best spot to open the oil-system to flush the system completely.... so to get rid of really all oil in the system?
I recently bought a Tuscan MK1 with an engine rebuilt done in 2010.
Unfortunaely the company that did the rebuilt is gone for good and so I do not know what exactly has been done and at what milage.
But I was able to estimate, that the engine has covered about 3000 miles since the rebuilt.
Now the question is, do I need to drive the SpeedSix in again, exactly the same way it has to be done with a brand new engine? So up to 6000 miles with limited RPM and with 5W40 oil??
I can visually see, that the engine has been taken apart completely.... all new screws and all new seals... of cause that does not mean anything... but it seems that at least all bearings have been done, as the oil-pressure is very high with 5W40.
So after 3000 miles on the rebuilt engine, it is still running on 5W40 like sugested by the handbook/mytuscan.co.uk.
but the pressure is very high on this oil, at least indicating that all the bearings are tight fits. Pressure is (warm engine) 24 psi when idle and up to 80 psi when reving up. So really pretty high...
Should I stay whith these high psi values for the next 3000 miles, in case these high pressures are needed for running the engine in correctly, or should I change to synthetic 0W40 or even 0W30?
And do I also need to keep the revs low during this time?
Maybe someone here knows what would be best!?
...and what is the best spot to open the oil-system to flush the system completely.... so to get rid of really all oil in the system?
Edited by votan on Sunday 16th October 12:08
I'm no expert but a couple of things come to mind:-
If you have the old style oil pressure sensor that has one wire connecting instead of two then this tends to read higher. Generally 25 psi on the old (leak-prone) one will be 10-15psi on the new version.
Don't use 0W-anything. TVR power use 10W-40 semi synth and STR8SIX use 5W-40 semi synth.
After 3000 miles it should be run in. With regards the revs after a rebuild, it's not limited revs for 6,000 miles, only the first 1000...
If you have the old style oil pressure sensor that has one wire connecting instead of two then this tends to read higher. Generally 25 psi on the old (leak-prone) one will be 10-15psi on the new version.
Don't use 0W-anything. TVR power use 10W-40 semi synth and STR8SIX use 5W-40 semi synth.
After 3000 miles it should be run in. With regards the revs after a rebuild, it's not limited revs for 6,000 miles, only the first 1000...
TVR handbook said:
1.9 Running In
The purpose of running in is to allow the new engine components to bed in
correctly. To gain maximum performance, service life and general reliability, the
best policy to adopt during the run in period is to avoid high engine rpm and
large throttle openings but most importantly, not allowing the engine to labour
in a high gear.
Recommended rpm during the running in period
Starting the engine from cold. 0-1000 miles, rpm should not exceed 2500 rpm
until the engine is warm.
1. 0-250 miles, max rpm should not exceed 3500 rpm even when the engine is
warm.
2. 250-1000 miles, Although it is important to avoid full throttle or over 4,000
rpm during the first 1,000 miles, occasional bursts (c.5 seconds) of 75%
throttle up to 4,000 rpm, will help to bed the piston rings in.
3. Do not use full throttle accelerations in low gear for at least 1000 miles and
avoid full throttle use in any gear for the first 250 miles
4. Avoid driving at a constant speed within the first 300 miles.
Most importantly, drive fairly normally. Being too gentle with an engine when
running in can be as bad as being too rough.
The purpose of running in is to allow the new engine components to bed in
correctly. To gain maximum performance, service life and general reliability, the
best policy to adopt during the run in period is to avoid high engine rpm and
large throttle openings but most importantly, not allowing the engine to labour
in a high gear.
Recommended rpm during the running in period
Starting the engine from cold. 0-1000 miles, rpm should not exceed 2500 rpm
until the engine is warm.
1. 0-250 miles, max rpm should not exceed 3500 rpm even when the engine is
warm.
2. 250-1000 miles, Although it is important to avoid full throttle or over 4,000
rpm during the first 1,000 miles, occasional bursts (c.5 seconds) of 75%
throttle up to 4,000 rpm, will help to bed the piston rings in.
3. Do not use full throttle accelerations in low gear for at least 1000 miles and
avoid full throttle use in any gear for the first 250 miles
4. Avoid driving at a constant speed within the first 300 miles.
Most importantly, drive fairly normally. Being too gentle with an engine when
running in can be as bad as being too rough.
Makes me feel more secure now! This is a good thread about changing the sensor...
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
I think the TVR Power website has a bit about running in after a rebuild.
Found It
Found It
TVR Power Website said:
You must ensure that you use unleaded fuel octane
rating RON 97/98 at all times, and use the following
grade of oil during and after the running in period;
[0 - 1000 miles use only 10W/40 mineral oil] and [>1001
miles use only 10W/40 or 15W/40 semi-synthetic oil]
rating RON 97/98 at all times, and use the following
grade of oil during and after the running in period;
[0 - 1000 miles use only 10W/40 mineral oil] and [>1001
miles use only 10W/40 or 15W/40 semi-synthetic oil]
Edited by blueg33 on Sunday 16th October 21:16
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