Honda 1000rr or Yamaha R1 in BEC...

[JackieBoy]

Hi guys, being my first post, firstly let me say... Ello there!

Apologises if this has been covered elsewhere, I did have a good search but found nothing which helped me with my dilemma.

I’m looking to build a fast track focused car which I can eventually race in one of the 750 events. So far I’ve looked at the seven style cars, Fishers Fury’s / Phoenix’s etc. but have finally settled on a Spire GT-R. Well I’m 90% sure anyway, the last 10% sits in the aero V’s non-aero debate but that’s for another post. I’m wanting to stick within the 1000cc limit which I believe leaves me with the Honda or Yamaha as being the only 2 popular option, the thing is which is best in the Spire?

Thanks in advance all.

[shaun fulcrum]

Welcome!

Speaking with andy (AB performance) about his preferred choice and he seems to rate the 1000rr 2008+ as a Busa killer! Andys car has been RR'd at 170bhp atw!! Whereas the earlier 1000rr and R1 are very similar to each other. This is all from his rgb experience so should be quite a good perspective. Hope it helps

[JackieBoy]

Thanks for that,

We're at the expensive end of he scale here but good to know there's little difference in earlier models, espically as the R1 seems to be a little cheaper (I've been watch eBay for a week or so)

Does anybody know what's common in the 750 RGB?

[shaun fulcrum]

Might be worthwhile asking on the rgb forum. So you can get answers from the horses mouth

http://www.rgb-racing.org.uk/rgbbb/

Though engine choice for a lot is about which class they can be competitive in. If building a spire gtr/gt2 then I would guess your aim is class r, which is top dog

[rhinochopig]

Just to add, having tested an XTR2 and a Megabusa back to back, whilst the XTR2 was much faster, the mega cars are much more fun on track IMO. Unless you've raced before I would start with a non aero car as they are more forgiving and I think more fun. I'd go with one of Fisher's designs.

Remember to cost in a baffled sump or preferably a dry sump system - The R1 and Blade engines are much better than the birds and busa, but having a engine seize at 100mph on a track is not something I'd want to happen to me having seen the results.

[JackieBoy]

shaun fulcrum said:

Might be worthwhile asking on the rgb forum. So you can get answers from the horses mouth

http://www.rgb-racing.org.uk/rgbbb/

Though engine choice for a lot is about which class they can be competitive in. If building a spire gtr/gt2 then I would guess your aim is class r, which is top dog

Good shout - I'll pop in and say hello!

R class it is, possibly ambitious for a novice but before I'd go racing I'll have a good year on the track / airstrip honing some stiggy type skills I wish!

Besides I don't have to be at the front... Scrap that it's a huge lie! Anyway regardless of the outcome its going to be a huge scream

Thanks again

[JackieBoy]

rhinochopig said:

I would start with a non aero car as they are more forgiving and I think more fun. I'd go with one of Fisher's designs.

Remember to cost in a baffled sump or preferably a dry sump system

Interesting...

I'm not completely green having done Karting for a few years, but that was some time ago and these are a different beast but I do know what you mean. As i said I'm still not 100% due to the whole aero v's non-aero debate but I don't think that's one can be solved here. I'll need to ask the question but I'm sure some how I can arrange some kind of test drive before I part with my hard earned!

I'm hooked on the bike engine root so if I do opt for the Fury then its just a different class. On that point, why would you go for dry sump over a baffle, I've seen some comments stating this just adds weight and expense and the baffle is perfectly adequate - as such I wasn't planing on going down this route but perhaps you could add value to this debate?

[Turn7]

Have a good read of Tim Hovered site - he has raced RGB for many years, and is currently using a new Spectre with the late Blade lump.

http://www.hoverd.org/Tim/

[rhinochopig]

JackieBoy said:

rhinochopig said:

I would start with a non aero car as they are more forgiving and I think more fun. I'd go with one of Fisher's designs.

Remember to cost in a baffled sump or preferably a dry sump system

Interesting...

I'm not completely green having done Karting for a few years, but that was some time ago and these are a different beast but I do know what you mean. As i said I'm still not 100% due to the whole aero v's non-aero debate but I don't think that's one can be solved here. I'll need to ask the question but I'm sure some how I can arrange some kind of test drive before I part with my hard earned!

I'm hooked on the bike engine root so if I do opt for the Fury then its just a different class. On that point, why would you go for dry sump over a baffle, I've seen some comments stating this just adds weight and expense and the baffle is perfectly adequate - as such I wasn't planing on going down this route but perhaps you could add value to this debate?

100mph and an engine seize / piston through the block is the reason TBH. Locking the rear at racing speeds tends to be a big off. See the other thread on 250bhp bike engines for a vid of a lucky escape, and that was with a dry sump.

A dry sump, IMO, mitigates the risk better than a baffled sump. That said some of the 900cc 1000cc bike engine cars will run for ever without even a baffled sump. Everyone has a level of risk they are willing to accept.

[Heatherj]

Hi,

You are not just limited to the 2. If you are going with the rear engined car you can also use the Kawasaki ZX10r this has been raced with a baffled sump succesfully for four years and also look at the car that has won the championship this year, the Contour with a Suzuki engine both of these are successful strong engines

[eddie99]

Dont not consider the zx10. I run the zx10 purely because overal cost was about 1k cheaper than the blade, and same if not better Bhp but not as torquey as the honda.