Help!!! non starting Griff
Discussion
3weeks ago I drove my griff out of the garage after a couple of hours went to drive it back in and it would not
start !
The immobilizer light goes out but the ignition is dead, no ignition lights,
Lights etc........ work and what ever else is not connected to the ignition.
Please can anyone help ???
start !
The immobilizer light goes out but the ignition is dead, no ignition lights,
Lights etc........ work and what ever else is not connected to the ignition.
Please can anyone help ???
Thanks for replies
I have been trying to sort the problem myself over the past 3 weeks.
The battery is new 3 months ago all terminals clean and tight.
All fuses are ok. I haven't checked 100 amp fuse( will do )
Where is the ignition amp ?
When I turn the ignition on fully to start the car there is no noise from the fuel pump or
anything else.
Indicators don't work.
And no ignition lights on the dash board.
I have been trying to sort the problem myself over the past 3 weeks.
The battery is new 3 months ago all terminals clean and tight.
All fuses are ok. I haven't checked 100 amp fuse( will do )
Where is the ignition amp ?
When I turn the ignition on fully to start the car there is no noise from the fuel pump or
anything else.
Indicators don't work.
And no ignition lights on the dash board.
Could be a fault with the immobiliser, which carries power to the fuel pump, starter motor and ignition coil. This can occur despite the immobiliser light going out after "disarming" it. You could give Carl Baker a call at Car & Bike Installations Ltd. He specialises in TVR alarms and is very helpful. www.tvruk.tv
Also see my recent post "immobiliser playing up?". Some useful replies there. Hope you're up and running soon.
Rob
Also see my recent post "immobiliser playing up?". Some useful replies there. Hope you're up and running soon.
Rob
Edited by GasDoc on Tuesday 18th October 08:07
Your symptoms suggest voltage is not reaching many vital areas. Are you sure the battery is OK?
As FFG suggests the 100A fuse (2 on the 500) 1 in the rats nest by the battery the second on the chassis under the engine are prime culprits, you say that battery leads have been checked, earths are another area to look at but as so much has failed it has got to be a main supply feed (or battery).
My local TVR dealer told me that they routinely change the 100Amp fuses during the annual service as they are the cause of many faults.
As FFG suggests the 100A fuse (2 on the 500) 1 in the rats nest by the battery the second on the chassis under the engine are prime culprits, you say that battery leads have been checked, earths are another area to look at but as so much has failed it has got to be a main supply feed (or battery).
My local TVR dealer told me that they routinely change the 100Amp fuses during the annual service as they are the cause of many faults.
Forget the Ignition Amp, the fact the engine isn't even turning over or the fuel pump priming means its not in the equation.
But for the record, it is the black thing attached to either the side of the dizzy on early cars or one of the rocker covers on later cars with a couple of wires leading back to the dizzy. There is a thread here if you are still interested.
But for the record, it is the black thing attached to either the side of the dizzy on early cars or one of the rocker covers on later cars with a couple of wires leading back to the dizzy. There is a thread here if you are still interested.
I'm sure it's not the battery as the car locks and unlocks also the head lights work.
Still haven't had chance to check the 100 amp fuses but from what Gasdoc says It does sound like the car is still immobilsed.
Thanks for the help so far I will get back to you as soon as I have time to investigate further.
Still haven't had chance to check the 100 amp fuses but from what Gasdoc says It does sound like the car is still immobilsed.
Thanks for the help so far I will get back to you as soon as I have time to investigate further.
Check the two relays (origional ones silver alloy with red diagonal line accross) near the Battery, one is for ecu, one for fuel pump. It happened to me . Replaced both ...... job done. No longer available in alloy but part No cross reference will sort it BUT MAKE SURE you get ones with diodes as per origional ones.
Ok. After work and family commitments I have finally had time to look at the Griff.
Things that work;
Lights side and head
Cd player
Clock
Interior light
Electric windows
Central locking
And those that don't !!
Indicators
Wipers
Horn
Boot release
Heater blower
No ignition lights
Dials fuel gauge ,volt meter etc....
I have checked both 100 amp fuses and they are good
and as said before the battery is new.
Things that work;
Lights side and head
Cd player
Clock
Interior light
Electric windows
Central locking
And those that don't !!
Indicators
Wipers
Horn
Boot release
Heater blower
No ignition lights
Dials fuel gauge ,volt meter etc....
I have checked both 100 amp fuses and they are good
and as said before the battery is new.
Hi,
Not sure if it helps, but had a similar problem when putting my dash back together after a long layup.
There are two large black connectors that connect the dash to the main loom. They use cylindrical terminals and on my car one of the female terminals had opened up slighlty, causing a poor connection. This was a +12v iginition switched feed, which when the connector was 'wobbled' caused the instruments to loose power. From memory it was a green/black or green/white wire.
I gave the terminal a bit of a crimp with a pair of needle nose pliers and all is well again. Might help...?
Also, behind the dash there is another relay panel which could be causing your problems. On my car (Gemini Alarm) these relays are part of the immobiliser.
Not sure if it helps, but had a similar problem when putting my dash back together after a long layup.
There are two large black connectors that connect the dash to the main loom. They use cylindrical terminals and on my car one of the female terminals had opened up slighlty, causing a poor connection. This was a +12v iginition switched feed, which when the connector was 'wobbled' caused the instruments to loose power. From memory it was a green/black or green/white wire.
I gave the terminal a bit of a crimp with a pair of needle nose pliers and all is well again. Might help...?
Also, behind the dash there is another relay panel which could be causing your problems. On my car (Gemini Alarm) these relays are part of the immobiliser.
Edited by jeboa on Sunday 30th October 21:46
As suggested it could be a loose plug/socket behind the dash but worth checking the Ignition relay on the relay panel in the passenger foot well.
It could be dirty relay plug/socket contact as it can get a bit damp down there or a duff relay, substitute one of the others of the same type.
It could be dirty relay plug/socket contact as it can get a bit damp down there or a duff relay, substitute one of the others of the same type.
OK Griff has now been started!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I had to bite the bullet and call out an auto electrician!
This is were it gets interesting as it was none of the problems we have discussed.
The 15 amp horn fuse had blown (I didn't check this one myself as I didn't think it was relevant)
Once replaced every time I turned on the ignition it blew again.
On further investigation it turns out that the wire from the solenoid to the starter maybe faulty.
At the moment the car will start with a 20 amp fuse in and not blow.
I have just got to take it down to Neil Garners to put it on the ramp to check properly.
I had to bite the bullet and call out an auto electrician!
This is were it gets interesting as it was none of the problems we have discussed.
The 15 amp horn fuse had blown (I didn't check this one myself as I didn't think it was relevant)
Once replaced every time I turned on the ignition it blew again.
On further investigation it turns out that the wire from the solenoid to the starter maybe faulty.
At the moment the car will start with a 20 amp fuse in and not blow.
I have just got to take it down to Neil Garners to put it on the ramp to check properly.
nibor said:
The 15 amp horn fuse had blown (I didn't check this one myself as I didn't think it was relevant)
Once replaced every time I turned on the ignition it blew again.
Glad you've made some progress. Your car might be different, but my 15 amp horn fuse is also the fuse for the engine fans. Worth bearing in mind, in case the car had started, you could have ended up down the street with steam coming out the bonnet. I know many of the cars are wired differently so this might not be relavant, but just thought I'd mention it.Once replaced every time I turned on the ignition it blew again.
Well finally got to the bottom of the problem.........
There is a problem with my heater blower, it is stuck on all the time,so when I turn the ignition on there is too
much electrical draw which in turn caused the horn fuse to blow which also controls something else to stop
my ignition from working !!!
Only in a TVR !
There is a problem with my heater blower, it is stuck on all the time,so when I turn the ignition on there is too
much electrical draw which in turn caused the horn fuse to blow which also controls something else to stop
my ignition from working !!!
Only in a TVR !
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