54 plate td freelander,talk to me
Discussion
Right o lads,
Apart from not buying one in October as the price will be higher what info do I need to know?
Car is a 54 plate turbo diesel 5 door auto with circa 70k on the clock, suit me down to the ground really but as usual I'm looking for a daily that I have absolutely no idea about.
Rust issues? Engine woes? Is the auto a power sapping juice drinking abomination?!
Any & all help is greatly received, as is obvious I don't want my daily driver to let me down!
Apart from not buying one in October as the price will be higher what info do I need to know?
Car is a 54 plate turbo diesel 5 door auto with circa 70k on the clock, suit me down to the ground really but as usual I'm looking for a daily that I have absolutely no idea about.
Rust issues? Engine woes? Is the auto a power sapping juice drinking abomination?!
Any & all help is greatly received, as is obvious I don't want my daily driver to let me down!
Edited by cragswinter on Sunday 16th October 19:19
Td4 is the best engine, only thing for them is good quality oil, blank off the egr and watch out for the hoses as they can fail with age/oil contamination.
Bank on £150 to replace them, best mod you could do to the engine.
Auto does take 3-8mpg compaired to the manual, no issues with the box though as far as im aware.
The VCU can fail with age, theres guides online to check it out, if its on the way out, replace asap as it can also take out the IRD and the rear diff mounts. Pricy if ignored.
Boot seals can leak, this shows up as the boot storage box where the jack etc live gets a wet carpet.
New seal solves it though.
Rust is not an issue, the interiors are quite tough and dont fall apart, just make sure everything works.
What spec is it? They go from lowest to highest as follows. E,S,SE,HSE, there is a sport and sport premium but the spec's on them are all over the place, there are 3 special editions. The XEI, Adventurer and i cant mind the 3rd one
Ive a 04 SE td4 manual on 66k, its had a few issues but that was down to a a
hole garage. Mine has the egr blanked and the hoses replaced and remapped by twisted performance. Mine runs best on BP ultimate diesel, On mostly motorway driving with a bit of town, i can get almost 600 miles from a tank, i can ususally get over 480-520 from a tank.
Bank on £150 to replace them, best mod you could do to the engine.
Auto does take 3-8mpg compaired to the manual, no issues with the box though as far as im aware.
The VCU can fail with age, theres guides online to check it out, if its on the way out, replace asap as it can also take out the IRD and the rear diff mounts. Pricy if ignored.
Boot seals can leak, this shows up as the boot storage box where the jack etc live gets a wet carpet.
New seal solves it though.
Rust is not an issue, the interiors are quite tough and dont fall apart, just make sure everything works.
What spec is it? They go from lowest to highest as follows. E,S,SE,HSE, there is a sport and sport premium but the spec's on them are all over the place, there are 3 special editions. The XEI, Adventurer and i cant mind the 3rd one
Ive a 04 SE td4 manual on 66k, its had a few issues but that was down to a a
hole garage. Mine has the egr blanked and the hoses replaced and remapped by twisted performance. Mine runs best on BP ultimate diesel, On mostly motorway driving with a bit of town, i can get almost 600 miles from a tank, i can ususally get over 480-520 from a tank.Thanks for the help,
Right had a look online & if the cars done 70k it sounds like the vcu will need to be replaced just as a precaution (as long as there's no evidence that it has been replaced so far?), that's 500 quid on the price straight away!
What's this egr problem though? Sounds like it should be a service item! Are the hose splits directly connected to this problem (oil contamination in the intake hoses causing the hoses to split?)
Right had a look online & if the cars done 70k it sounds like the vcu will need to be replaced just as a precaution (as long as there's no evidence that it has been replaced so far?), that's 500 quid on the price straight away!
What's this egr problem though? Sounds like it should be a service item! Are the hose splits directly connected to this problem (oil contamination in the intake hoses causing the hoses to split?)
TD4 Auto is the one to go for... 
VCU - You don't have to replace it, just check that it's still working properly. My Freelander is 13yrs old and the original VCU is still fine.
EGR - Probably just as easy to Google it but essentially EGR (Exhaust Gas Recirculation) valves get clogged up over time and stick. So, if they stick in the open position, you loose performance as you are sucking exhaust gas into the combustion chamber.
EGR valves are fitted to clean up the emmissions but blanking them off will not cause any problems what so ever!!!
HTH
M
VCU - You don't have to replace it, just check that it's still working properly. My Freelander is 13yrs old and the original VCU is still fine.
EGR - Probably just as easy to Google it but essentially EGR (Exhaust Gas Recirculation) valves get clogged up over time and stick. So, if they stick in the open position, you loose performance as you are sucking exhaust gas into the combustion chamber.
EGR valves are fitted to clean up the emmissions but blanking them off will not cause any problems what so ever!!!
HTH
M
As above really, the egr is a valve that makes the engine eat its own ste.
Blanking it gives better low down response, better mpg and your mot is not affected.
The vcu can act up, some do, some dont. Luck of the draw really.
Ps, they are superb in the snow as long as you have decent tyres! Dont bother with cheapo budgets!
Also the best tyres go on the rear of the car, not the front.
te. Blanking it gives better low down response, better mpg and your mot is not affected.
The vcu can act up, some do, some dont. Luck of the draw really.
Ps, they are superb in the snow as long as you have decent tyres! Dont bother with cheapo budgets!
Also the best tyres go on the rear of the car, not the front.
Right got the car on me as the trader just lent us it (I know the guy)
1st impressions
1/Not much happens when you put your foot down at 70-infact it needed to drop a gear!
2/Slowing to a halt it almost feels like it wants to carry on-like in a manual car when you don't depress the clutch slowing for some traffic lights etc. May be just a quirk of the auto box?
3/Brakes squeak/grumble loudly when holding the car in a slow creep.
4/Bit of a whiff of diesel outside the car when I parked up.
5/air-con doesn't seem to be doing anything though it's pretty cold up here so it's hard to tell!
6/couple of rust marks around the rear door as if something's been rusting behind the plastic trims around each side? Looks minor.
Any thoughts guys? Rust, air-con, brakes not a big fix, any of the others sound like trouble?
1st impressions
1/Not much happens when you put your foot down at 70-infact it needed to drop a gear!
2/Slowing to a halt it almost feels like it wants to carry on-like in a manual car when you don't depress the clutch slowing for some traffic lights etc. May be just a quirk of the auto box?
3/Brakes squeak/grumble loudly when holding the car in a slow creep.
4/Bit of a whiff of diesel outside the car when I parked up.
5/air-con doesn't seem to be doing anything though it's pretty cold up here so it's hard to tell!
6/couple of rust marks around the rear door as if something's been rusting behind the plastic trims around each side? Looks minor.
Any thoughts guys? Rust, air-con, brakes not a big fix, any of the others sound like trouble?
None of it sounds too bad.
Get underneath and check all of the drive/prop shafts for play at the gearbox end. Too much and that's you IRD unit worn.
Lack of oomph and smell of diesel could be connected and possibly an EGR problem. No big drama but sounds as though it could do with a decent service (flush intercooler, blank EGR and new air filter).
Any knocking on acceleration or deceleration? If so, could be worn rear diff mount bushes.
VCU - Check by jacking up one rear wheel. If you can very slowly turn the wheel by using the wheel brace or something, then it should be Ok.
Have a quick google for other known Freelander or BMW 2.0d issues (TD4 is a BMW lump).
M
Get underneath and check all of the drive/prop shafts for play at the gearbox end. Too much and that's you IRD unit worn.
Lack of oomph and smell of diesel could be connected and possibly an EGR problem. No big drama but sounds as though it could do with a decent service (flush intercooler, blank EGR and new air filter).
Any knocking on acceleration or deceleration? If so, could be worn rear diff mount bushes.
VCU - Check by jacking up one rear wheel. If you can very slowly turn the wheel by using the wheel brace or something, then it should be Ok.
Have a quick google for other known Freelander or BMW 2.0d issues (TD4 is a BMW lump).
M
Well in real terms I'll be paying about 6-6500 for it. He's a trader (part time) & will service & mot it for me.
There's a comparative private sale on autotrader for 4750, but using this guy will take out a bit of hassle by getting rid of my van. I could save by buying privately & trying to shift on the van though.
There's a comparative private sale on autotrader for 4750, but using this guy will take out a bit of hassle by getting rid of my van. I could save by buying privately & trying to shift on the van though.
Oh aye, the crankcase filter, theres a mod from BMW for £50 to do away with it, make sure it gets changed though, often left out and its not good for the engine.
Would try for £6k, my mate got a manual adventurer on 72k silver 5 door so similar spec to yours for £6200. He got a service and mot thrown in as well for that price. That was with a punto trade in.
See how you get on
Would try for £6k, my mate got a manual adventurer on 72k silver 5 door so similar spec to yours for £6200. He got a service and mot thrown in as well for that price. That was with a punto trade in.
See how you get on
A.J.M said:
Oh aye, the crankcase filter, theres a mod from BMW for £50 to do away with it, make sure it gets changed though, often left out and its not good for the engine.
Would try for £6k, my mate got a manual adventurer on 72k silver 5 door so similar spec to yours for £6200. He got a service and mot thrown in as well for that price. That was with a punto trade in.
See how you get on
yup and tax aswell mind Would try for £6k, my mate got a manual adventurer on 72k silver 5 door so similar spec to yours for £6200. He got a service and mot thrown in as well for that price. That was with a punto trade in.
See how you get on
I run a 54 plate sport Td4 Auto, now in Crete on Greek plates. The sport spec provides much better handling without compromising ride quality, but tyres are expensive. Continentals last 30k fronts and 40k rears. Tried a set of pirellis on the front and shot after just 20k.
Don't forget to make sure the fuel filter is replaced at 70k.
I get 33-35mpg every day no matter how its driven!
Don't forget to make sure the fuel filter is replaced at 70k.
I get 33-35mpg every day no matter how its driven!
I own one of these and they are a good compliment to the Porsche with winter on its way. As previous posters have said + I would add my comments:-
If buying second hand always go for the top spec models with Leather, Good sound system and toys as the price difference is minimal.
They dont rust much and have modern paint processes
BMW 2.0 tdi engine - almost bullet proof if looked after.
Gertrag 5 speed box (German box as use by by Porsche)
The manual feels faster to drive than the auto.
Regular 35 - 40 mpg
The clutch cylinder is made by rover and eventually goes spongy. (cheap fix)
All the small motor driven parts made by rover (windows, locks etc) are prone to wear but are easily replaced.
Must fit Stainless EGR bypass as valve lets muck into the inlet and gums up the manifold (grrrr euro emission crap)
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Landrover-Freelander-EGR-TD4...
Neglected transmission will be costly as the IRD and Diff will be worn. The viscous coupling can be overhauled using slightly thinner silicon, resulting in less stress on the transmission and long life.
http://www.bellengineering.co.uk/2.html
To avoid driving on the land rover IRD and diff, the prop and viscous coupling can be removed making it drive on BMW parts only - giving excellent summer fuel economy. Can be replaced for winter snow and ice.
If buying second hand always go for the top spec models with Leather, Good sound system and toys as the price difference is minimal.
They dont rust much and have modern paint processes
BMW 2.0 tdi engine - almost bullet proof if looked after.
Gertrag 5 speed box (German box as use by by Porsche)
The manual feels faster to drive than the auto.
Regular 35 - 40 mpg
The clutch cylinder is made by rover and eventually goes spongy. (cheap fix)
All the small motor driven parts made by rover (windows, locks etc) are prone to wear but are easily replaced.
Must fit Stainless EGR bypass as valve lets muck into the inlet and gums up the manifold (grrrr euro emission crap)
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Landrover-Freelander-EGR-TD4...
Neglected transmission will be costly as the IRD and Diff will be worn. The viscous coupling can be overhauled using slightly thinner silicon, resulting in less stress on the transmission and long life.
http://www.bellengineering.co.uk/2.html
To avoid driving on the land rover IRD and diff, the prop and viscous coupling can be removed making it drive on BMW parts only - giving excellent summer fuel economy. Can be replaced for winter snow and ice.
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