964 carerra 2 broken engine stud
Discussion
Hmm, sorry to hear that.
You can get away with just doing the broken stud but, it would be an absolute false economy. You'll be looking at a few hundred pounds labour minimum to drop the engine out, then strip the heads and number 6 barrel off, renew the broken stud, then rebuild/refit.
You could then get it back together and a different stud could go soon after.
If you're absolutely skint at the minute then you'll have to do just that and ignore any other worn items (there will be plenty of them) once the engine is out but I really wouldn't recommmend it!
You have to ask yourself though, if a stud has snapped, why would the rest of the engine not be inline with that broken part, wear-wise and the unfortunate answer is, IT WILL.
Good luck. Nothing like a bad start to ownership eh? I would never buy a 964 now that hadn't had a top-end rebuild. Someone will be along soon to say I'm being daft but, that's my view.
They all need one at some point! Some at 80K miles some at 130K miles but they all do!
Edited to add -
If you do just go to do the one stud, at least do the 6 on the lower side of that bank. Ideally the 12 lower ones (but this means stripping the other bank). It's nearly always the lower ones that snap due to the excess heat from the exhausts. The top ones rarely go but, should be replaced as a matter of course at rebuild time.
You can get away with just doing the broken stud but, it would be an absolute false economy. You'll be looking at a few hundred pounds labour minimum to drop the engine out, then strip the heads and number 6 barrel off, renew the broken stud, then rebuild/refit.
You could then get it back together and a different stud could go soon after.
If you're absolutely skint at the minute then you'll have to do just that and ignore any other worn items (there will be plenty of them) once the engine is out but I really wouldn't recommmend it!
You have to ask yourself though, if a stud has snapped, why would the rest of the engine not be inline with that broken part, wear-wise and the unfortunate answer is, IT WILL.
Good luck. Nothing like a bad start to ownership eh? I would never buy a 964 now that hadn't had a top-end rebuild. Someone will be along soon to say I'm being daft but, that's my view.
They all need one at some point! Some at 80K miles some at 130K miles but they all do!
Edited to add -
If you do just go to do the one stud, at least do the 6 on the lower side of that bank. Ideally the 12 lower ones (but this means stripping the other bank). It's nearly always the lower ones that snap due to the excess heat from the exhausts. The top ones rarely go but, should be replaced as a matter of course at rebuild time.
Edited by marky911 on Friday 21st October 21:40
Nightmare mate!
Really sorry to hear it. If the car's good everywhere else then it'll be worth getting it done as they're only on the up these cars. Still a bitter pill to swallow so early on.
You can use it as it is you know. Quite a few owners use them while they save up for the repairs.
I don't know if you understand how the studs work, so sorry to patronise you if you do but, they are basically a long thin piece of bar, threaded on both ends. One end screws into the block. The barrels and heads then slide down the bolts to mate with the block too. Nuts are then tightened on the top clamping the whole lot together.
When a stud snaps you usually hear a ticking similar to a blown exhaust manifold. This is the head/barrel lifting off the block under load and letting the gases out. As I've said you can drive it like this for a while. Just go easy on it, to try and avoid snapping the other studs. You'll just have to put up with the annoying tick and probably an oil leak.
A word of warning though, the exhaust gases escaping from where they are not meant to, can actually burn a recess into the area they are leaking through (head/barrel). So if left for thousands of miles this could result in needing more parts for the rebuild. This is quite rare though if you don't boot it.
Good luck. I don't want to ask the inevitable question but, someone will. Did you get it inspected prior to purchase? I take it it was a private sale?
Really sorry to hear it. If the car's good everywhere else then it'll be worth getting it done as they're only on the up these cars. Still a bitter pill to swallow so early on.
You can use it as it is you know. Quite a few owners use them while they save up for the repairs.
I don't know if you understand how the studs work, so sorry to patronise you if you do but, they are basically a long thin piece of bar, threaded on both ends. One end screws into the block. The barrels and heads then slide down the bolts to mate with the block too. Nuts are then tightened on the top clamping the whole lot together.
When a stud snaps you usually hear a ticking similar to a blown exhaust manifold. This is the head/barrel lifting off the block under load and letting the gases out. As I've said you can drive it like this for a while. Just go easy on it, to try and avoid snapping the other studs. You'll just have to put up with the annoying tick and probably an oil leak.
A word of warning though, the exhaust gases escaping from where they are not meant to, can actually burn a recess into the area they are leaking through (head/barrel). So if left for thousands of miles this could result in needing more parts for the rebuild. This is quite rare though if you don't boot it.
Good luck. I don't want to ask the inevitable question but, someone will. Did you get it inspected prior to purchase? I take it it was a private sale?
Sorry to hear of your woes so early into what is meant to be your dream car. I had exactly the same thing happen to me with a 3.2 carrera (still in my profile) so I can sympathise with your situation.
End result was a top end refresh as it was a no brainer to do while the engine was out. New rings, valves reground and seated, heavy duty head studs and so on. It hurt financially at the time but it gave me so much more confidence in the car after knowing things were right. And it's worth doing also for when you decide to sell it on and upgrade to the next one
as the next buyer will have that confidence in it.
Believe me, once you've had one you can't be without one. I wish you well in getting things sorted and the rules round here mean we need some pictures of your car.
End result was a top end refresh as it was a no brainer to do while the engine was out. New rings, valves reground and seated, heavy duty head studs and so on. It hurt financially at the time but it gave me so much more confidence in the car after knowing things were right. And it's worth doing also for when you decide to sell it on and upgrade to the next one
as the next buyer will have that confidence in it.Believe me, once you've had one you can't be without one. I wish you well in getting things sorted and the rules round here mean we need some pictures of your car.
Hi, sorry to hear the bad news. Just a small word of warning when you hear the ticking noise this is the combustion gasses escaping past the cylinder head to barrel sealing surface and it can damage the faces thus causing more damage and cost. Get it done sooner rather than later and budget around £4k for a decent top end rebuild with new rings, new delivar head studs and skimming of cylinder heads all valve guides reworked and valves re ground in with spring heights set, new chains and guides rails....
Mike
Mike
Its horrible to be faced with a big bill so soon, but unless you offload the car you are going to need to do it and if possible, do it now
I left a few jobs on my first 911, clutch, flywheel etc, uintil I could afford them. I had the car for 3 years and did the work at the end of year 2.
The car was immeasurabley better with the work done but I only benefited from it for a year of ownership having spent teh same or probably a bit more than if I'd simply got on with it at the outset.
I expect the same goes for a top end revuild, only more so
I left a few jobs on my first 911, clutch, flywheel etc, uintil I could afford them. I had the car for 3 years and did the work at the end of year 2.
The car was immeasurabley better with the work done but I only benefited from it for a year of ownership having spent teh same or probably a bit more than if I'd simply got on with it at the outset.
I expect the same goes for a top end revuild, only more so
Look at this way. Assuming the car is a good one, its well worth doing the top end rebuild as it will add value to the car anyway! You will have the enjoyment of following the rebiuld process and running in your 'new' engine.
If its a keeper, you would probably do it at some point anyway.
Now, forget the engine and get some pics up of your new motor!
MTR
If its a keeper, you would probably do it at some point anyway.
Now, forget the engine and get some pics up of your new motor!
MTR
Edited by mollytherocker on Saturday 22 October 10:35
Mtylerb said:
Great response thanks. Bought from dealer so called trade sale no warranty and no sympathy.
This may be worth following up - trade sales for cars are those enacted between car traders. So if you're a trader then your problem to resolve, if you're a retail customer then 3 month wty should apply.MrCooke said:
N24 said:
3 month wty should apply.
Ah, the mandatory 3 month warranty. It's Internet fact, y'know. The rules of SOGA state that if fault was there on purchase then the dealer must sort...this is difficult to establish, so usually it is estimated to a 3 month period...anything beyond this and would be assumed that wasn't present at purchase so 3 months is rule of thumb...
However OP clearly not interested in approaching dealer, hence good luck with the fix!
Mtylerb said:
Thanks guys really appreciate all your good advice, will post some pics when she comes out considerig Porsche Unit 11 in warrington to do the job anybody got on any feedback on these guys?
I know quite a few local guys who use them and they have nothing but praise.Are you in the North West, your profile says Bucks?
MTR
Hi OP,
I just noticed this on Ebay.
To be honest you may well be buying someone elses problems but, if it went for sensible money it could get you going again on a budget.
You could then have your original rebuilt over time, then resell this one once it was no longer needed. Alternatively, if it proves to be healthy once running, resell your broken one and it will offset the cost of the Ebay one.
Just an option.
I got stung with a 3.2 carrera motor once though, so I personally will always go rebuild rather than replace but, like I say, you could get lucky and get back on the road quite cheaply...
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Porsche-964-3-6-engine-/...
Edited to add -
Another one here, which sounds a bit more promising but, seller has 0 feedback.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Porsche-964-C2-4-3-6-Eng...
I just noticed this on Ebay.
To be honest you may well be buying someone elses problems but, if it went for sensible money it could get you going again on a budget.
You could then have your original rebuilt over time, then resell this one once it was no longer needed. Alternatively, if it proves to be healthy once running, resell your broken one and it will offset the cost of the Ebay one.
Just an option.
I got stung with a 3.2 carrera motor once though, so I personally will always go rebuild rather than replace but, like I say, you could get lucky and get back on the road quite cheaply...
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Porsche-964-3-6-engine-/...
Edited to add -
Another one here, which sounds a bit more promising but, seller has 0 feedback.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Porsche-964-C2-4-3-6-Eng...
Edited by marky911 on Saturday 22 October 21:45
mollytherocker said:
Mtylerb said:
Thanks guys really appreciate all your good advice, will post some pics when she comes out considerig Porsche Unit 11 in warrington to do the job anybody got on any feedback on these guys?
I know quite a few local guys who use them and they have nothing but praise.Are you in the North West, your profile says Bucks?
MTR
http://boxsey.blogspot.com/
...but be aware that whoever you choose for an engine rebuild that once the engine is out there WILL be a number of other items that will add to the cost, like rusty engine tins and leaking oil pipes.
Mtylerb said:
considering Porsche Unit 11 in warrington to do the job anybody got on any feedback on these guys?
That's who I'd use (and have before - they rebuilt the engine in my successful 964 race car). There are plenty of other places with the skill and experience to do the job properly, but Unit 11 are generally very competitive price-wise (the job isn't compromised, but the price is likely to be lower than anyone else of the same level of competence and expertise).There's only 2 of them and IIRC in 2009 besides all the other work they do, they rebuilt over 25 engines, many of them 964 ones - bearing in mind it's a 40 hour job that's a lot of engines.
Gassing Station | Porsche General | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff