Painting external wood (hardwood window frames)
Discussion
Chaps,
I'm making some new sash window sashes - six of them (for three windows). I'm trying to do as good a job as possible, as I want them to be as insulating as possible and to last as long as possible.
I'm making them from a hardwood (marenti), and am wondering what would be the best paint to apply to them. They are new (clearly! - I'm not re-painting existing window frames), and various people have suggested primers, sealers, undercoats and topcoats.
What paints should I use, in what order, to best protect the wood from the elements?
Thanks, in advance, for any help.
Oli.
I'm making some new sash window sashes - six of them (for three windows). I'm trying to do as good a job as possible, as I want them to be as insulating as possible and to last as long as possible.
I'm making them from a hardwood (marenti), and am wondering what would be the best paint to apply to them. They are new (clearly! - I'm not re-painting existing window frames), and various people have suggested primers, sealers, undercoats and topcoats.
What paints should I use, in what order, to best protect the wood from the elements?
Thanks, in advance, for any help.
Oli.
before u fit the glass, give them a coat of waterbased primer x2, follwed by a coat of oil based undercoat, when fitted then just finish it with a topcoat of oil based gloss
try to use the best oil base you can buy, it all goes yellow after time, but the cheapyone goes yellew after about a month
try to use the best oil base you can buy, it all goes yellow after time, but the cheapyone goes yellew after about a month
Crease,
Thanks ... any kind of waterbased primer or something in particular? And the same for the undercoat and topcoat - any particular types to look out for? What about 'breathable' paints and sealants - are they something I should be considering?
And is that the correct sequence; primer under undercoat under topcoat?
Thanks again for your input.
Jas - I struggle similarly!
Oli.
Thanks ... any kind of waterbased primer or something in particular? And the same for the undercoat and topcoat - any particular types to look out for? What about 'breathable' paints and sealants - are they something I should be considering?
And is that the correct sequence; primer under undercoat under topcoat?
Thanks again for your input.
Jas - I struggle similarly!
Oli.
zcacogp said:
Crease,
Thanks ... any kind of waterbased primer or something in particular? And the same for the undercoat and topcoat - any particular types to look out for? What about 'breathable' paints and sealants - are they something I should be considering?
And is that the correct sequence; primer under undercoat under topcoat?
Thanks again for your input.
Jas - I struggle similarly!
Oli.
any primer will do, even white emulsion will do if you have got any kicking about, its just to give the wood something to absorb, then it dosent suck the undercoat to much, helping to create a better grip, i cant really remember exactly why, something to do with drying rates and how it bonds, but thats what they said in college, i know in my head how and why it works, but cant explain it! Thanks ... any kind of waterbased primer or something in particular? And the same for the undercoat and topcoat - any particular types to look out for? What about 'breathable' paints and sealants - are they something I should be considering?
And is that the correct sequence; primer under undercoat under topcoat?
Thanks again for your input.
Jas - I struggle similarly!
Oli.
shouldnt need a breathable paint, try and stick to dulux, ive used alot of other paints and even though pricey, dulux is still the best!
its the oils in oilbase that turn yellow, dont ever listen if someone says gloss never goes yellow, as it always does, the uv rays break down the pigments and turn it yellow, its the quality of the pigments that slow it down, hence cheapy gloss turns yellow real quick!
if theres knots then i suggest using knotting solution first, this is a shellac base, that the sap from the knots cannot penetrate, well worth buying it! ull regret it in a few years when sap starts pushing through the glosswork

when painting any new woodwork, always do in at least four stages,knotting, prime, undercoat and topcoat, if you like you can have 2 coats of it all apart from the knotting, i normally do prime x1 undercoat x 1 gloss x 2!
hope this rambling is understandable!
http://www.holkhamlinseedpaints.co.uk/
^ this. The wood will love it, but it can take a long time to dry. Works on a 7 year maintainance cycle with extra linseed oil applied after 7 years, then a new coat of paint after another 7.
^ this. The wood will love it, but it can take a long time to dry. Works on a 7 year maintainance cycle with extra linseed oil applied after 7 years, then a new coat of paint after another 7.
I have recently repaired several sash windows, sanding right back to bare wood, filling where needed with car filler, good quality red spotted sash cord, aluminum primer, windows in direct sunlight most of the day, so with aluminum retracting sunlight, then two coats of Dulux TRADE weathershield undercoat, and two of top coat.
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