Hot Water Immersion Cylinder
Discussion
The thermostat in the immersion cylinder has failed, noticed a burning smell in the cupboard and see the cable has arced out on the fitting, replaced cable and fitted a new thermostat.
I still dont have any hot water so possibly when the cable arced out the stat it might have possibly damaged the immersion itself, anyway get out the box spanner and tried to remove the complete immersion but no joy, any tips or tricks as I dont want to split the cylinder.
Its a 900 x 450 cylinder with a vertical immersion.
Thanks.
I still dont have any hot water so possibly when the cable arced out the stat it might have possibly damaged the immersion itself, anyway get out the box spanner and tried to remove the complete immersion but no joy, any tips or tricks as I dont want to split the cylinder.
Its a 900 x 450 cylinder with a vertical immersion.
Thanks.
You've checked fuses etc??
To get it out; Use a flat ring spanner if you can or box if it's all you have. NEVER one of those cranked ones..
Give the spanner as much force as it needs to 'almost' move the cylinder then hit it to twist it out. Sustained effort is MUCH more likely to tear the cylinder than impact. Loosen it with the cylinder full, incidentally, then drain enough water once it's loose to remove it.
To get it out; Use a flat ring spanner if you can or box if it's all you have. NEVER one of those cranked ones..
Give the spanner as much force as it needs to 'almost' move the cylinder then hit it to twist it out. Sustained effort is MUCH more likely to tear the cylinder than impact. Loosen it with the cylinder full, incidentally, then drain enough water once it's loose to remove it.
Arthur Jackson said:
You've checked fuses etc??
To get it out; Use a flat ring spanner if you can or box if it's all you have. NEVER one of those cranked ones..
Give the spanner as much force as it needs to 'almost' move the cylinder then hit it to twist it out. Sustained effort is MUCH more likely to tear the cylinder than impact. Loosen it with the cylinder full, incidentally, then drain enough water once it's loose to remove it.
Fuses are fine, should have blown when the cable arced but didnt, I fitted a new one which I know works, Ive dug out my flat ring but its no good.To get it out; Use a flat ring spanner if you can or box if it's all you have. NEVER one of those cranked ones..
Give the spanner as much force as it needs to 'almost' move the cylinder then hit it to twist it out. Sustained effort is MUCH more likely to tear the cylinder than impact. Loosen it with the cylinder full, incidentally, then drain enough water once it's loose to remove it.
Cylinder is full as the bloke who I paid many £££££'s to fit it a few years back didnt fit a drain off valve.
Harpo said:
bbb, do you have a meter to measure the resistance of the element? With the electrics off of course! No point removing it if it's okay.
If it does need replacing check the thread on the tank is clean and use a few turns of ptfe tape on the new element. Have fun!
Yep the element is cooked, I just want to get it out and fit a new one, last thing I want to do is buy a new cylinder.If it does need replacing check the thread on the tank is clean and use a few turns of ptfe tape on the new element. Have fun!
I did this a while ago. I was told to bang the spanner (proper big box one - about £8 from B&Q I think) to loosen it, but noticed the cylinder started to distort around the heater. I got a long pipe (2-3 foot?) to fit over the handle and extend it and it came off quite easily with steady pressure and no more distortion.
Shaolin said:
I did this a while ago. I was told to bang the spanner (proper big box one - about £8 from B&Q I think) to loosen it, but noticed the cylinder started to distort around the heater. I got a long pipe (2-3 foot?) to fit over the handle and extend it and it came off quite easily with steady pressure and no more distortion.
This is why box spanners are a bad idea. You need the effort in line with the nut, not 30mm above it. Believe me, impact is always better than steady pressure.I prefer a box spanner, as can put equal force on both sides, to prevent heater twisting in tank.
I just tent bend flat spanners!!
If a combination between force, and shock blows don't work, then you need to drain off the top 2"-3" of water, and heat up the old immersion with a blowtorch, to help loosen the thread.
I just tent bend flat spanners!!
If a combination between force, and shock blows don't work, then you need to drain off the top 2"-3" of water, and heat up the old immersion with a blowtorch, to help loosen the thread.
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