Front spring removal........
Discussion
Ok i've replaced the rear springs no problem so now i'm going to attempt the fronts.
I've removed the top locking nuts on the damper, but the lower two nuts are cruddy as hell and the one that moves is clearly just spinning around with the bolt.
How do i get anything onto the bolt head down through the spring so that the nut will undo rather than simply turn?
Also do i really have to split the wishbone ball joint to get access to remove the spring?
Jimbo
I've removed the top locking nuts on the damper, but the lower two nuts are cruddy as hell and the one that moves is clearly just spinning around with the bolt.
How do i get anything onto the bolt head down through the spring so that the nut will undo rather than simply turn?
Also do i really have to split the wishbone ball joint to get access to remove the spring?
Jimbo
Be careful at the front, it is under tension.
Shockabsorber: no danger as it can be removed without removing the spring....
I was able to get a spanner inside to stop the bolt spinning. Normally they are welded to the wishbone, you can try that but would not advise to try that. Perhaps a mole grip could do the trick as well, otherwise it is getting the flex disk out and replace afterwards with a new bolt&nut.
Front spring:
If you don't have access to a wedge bible (it would half your 'challenge' as in it is described how to do it, make up your own tool to compress the spring etc.).
It needs to be compressed, and a standard spring compressor can be used but not as easy as normal as the spring is not 'straight' in the wedge configuration. Steve Heath describes a piece of rod, bolts at the top and a strong square tube can be installed of the position of the shockabsorber and a nut at the bottom to compress it. This homemade tool does the same as the expensive ford tool....
Once the spring is compressed, opinions differ as to what to unbolt, but I took the bolt out of the wishbone to the chassis. A jack can support the wishbone. It was not difficult to get the spring out, but back in! As the alignment of the holes of the chassis and wishbone, with the spring under compression (but straight and it is not after installation) and juggling the rubber spring pad and keep everything in position.
Not difficult, but could be dangerous and can take a bit of time.
Rob
Shockabsorber: no danger as it can be removed without removing the spring....
I was able to get a spanner inside to stop the bolt spinning. Normally they are welded to the wishbone, you can try that but would not advise to try that. Perhaps a mole grip could do the trick as well, otherwise it is getting the flex disk out and replace afterwards with a new bolt&nut.
Front spring:
If you don't have access to a wedge bible (it would half your 'challenge' as in it is described how to do it, make up your own tool to compress the spring etc.).
It needs to be compressed, and a standard spring compressor can be used but not as easy as normal as the spring is not 'straight' in the wedge configuration. Steve Heath describes a piece of rod, bolts at the top and a strong square tube can be installed of the position of the shockabsorber and a nut at the bottom to compress it. This homemade tool does the same as the expensive ford tool....
Once the spring is compressed, opinions differ as to what to unbolt, but I took the bolt out of the wishbone to the chassis. A jack can support the wishbone. It was not difficult to get the spring out, but back in! As the alignment of the holes of the chassis and wishbone, with the spring under compression (but straight and it is not after installation) and juggling the rubber spring pad and keep everything in position.
Not difficult, but could be dangerous and can take a bit of time.
Rob
Wedg1e said:
I don't know what all the bloody fuss is about, a standard compressor pair will fit. They worked on the Cortina and Granada, why wouldn't they work on a TVR?
Variation on a theme, I used three at 120 degrees to each other. The shape of the tongue part varies quite a bit from one compressor to another so you may need to but/borrow some suitable ones.JR said:
Variation on a theme, I used three at 120 degrees to each other. The shape of the tongue part varies quite a bit from one compressor to another so you may need to but/borrow some suitable ones.
Some springs are wound with clockwise and some with anticlockwise turns. The lugs on the compressors are shaped to suit the angle of the turns, if you follow, so a 'wrong-handed' compressor can be a bit of a liability! Luckily mine are correct for the TVR but IIRC my dad's Megane had opposite-wound turns. Scary job that was...Wedg1e said:
I don't know what all the bloody fuss is about, a standard compressor pair will fit. They worked on the Cortina and Granada, why wouldn't they work on a TVR?
With all due respect i think you're missing the point. Whether conventional spring compressors can be used is not what i was seeking advice on.I wanted to know how i get access to the bolt head through the spring as the nut and bolt are turning together and not undoing (the lower damper mounting bolts) and secondly do i need to drop the lower wishbone by splitting the ball joint or something similar?
Jimbo
I split the ball joint on mine, it came apart easily and made getting the spring off straightforward - don't forget to undo the earthing braid though... I speak from experience!
As for spinning bolts, I believe it's more common for the thread to strip on those nut/bolts so are you sure the bolt is actually turning? I'm becoming a dab hand at cutting nuts off on the SEAC withoug damaging the bolt, with patience you should be able to drill/saw/grind/dremmel/chisel off the nut...
As for spinning bolts, I believe it's more common for the thread to strip on those nut/bolts so are you sure the bolt is actually turning? I'm becoming a dab hand at cutting nuts off on the SEAC withoug damaging the bolt, with patience you should be able to drill/saw/grind/dremmel/chisel off the nut...
JMF894 said:
With all due respect i think you're missing the point. Whether conventional spring compressors can be used is not what i was seeking advice on.
I wanted to know how i get access to the bolt head through the spring as the nut and bolt are turning together and not undoing (the lower damper mounting bolts) and secondly do i need to drop the lower wishbone by splitting the ball joint or something similar?
Jimbo
Fairy nuff I wanted to know how i get access to the bolt head through the spring as the nut and bolt are turning together and not undoing (the lower damper mounting bolts) and secondly do i need to drop the lower wishbone by splitting the ball joint or something similar?
Jimbo
I spent too many years working with my dad sweating, swearing and grunting over seized fixings to be bothered nowadays: I get technical like Hatter and reach for some power-assistance, then replace the item afterwards
If you absolutely must get in that way, try looking for a 1/4" drive socket set with extensions etc., you may get a better purchase than some spanner at a jaunty angle. OTOH if you can find an old spanner of the appropriate dimension, how about bending it in a vice until you can get it on...?
Wedg1e said:
Fairy nuff
I spent too many years working with my dad sweating, swearing and grunting over seized fixings to be bothered nowadays: I get technical like Hatter and reach for some power-assistance, then replace the item afterwards
If you absolutely must get in that way, try looking for a 1/4" drive socket set with extensions etc., you may get a better purchase than some spanner at a jaunty angle. OTOH if you can find an old spanner of the appropriate dimension, how about bending it in a vice until you can get it on...?
Yes i have a 1/4 drive socket set............but i think i snapped the long extension some time ago. Best i purchase another then i suppose.I spent too many years working with my dad sweating, swearing and grunting over seized fixings to be bothered nowadays: I get technical like Hatter and reach for some power-assistance, then replace the item afterwards
If you absolutely must get in that way, try looking for a 1/4" drive socket set with extensions etc., you may get a better purchase than some spanner at a jaunty angle. OTOH if you can find an old spanner of the appropriate dimension, how about bending it in a vice until you can get it on...?
Earthing strap? good advice, hadn't considered that at all!
Cheers all, this is now next weeks project as inlaws here for the w/e.
Jimbo
cerberatony said:
i did mine recently and you live nearby, pm me and we can arrange a time for you to come around and i have tools to do the job
Hi thanks for the offer.Unfortunately the car will be sorned as of this weekend so i wont be driving it for a while. Lots of jobs i have planned that have been put off during the summer.
If i get really stuck i may pm you for some advice! Gonna crack on with it next week an see how i get on. On the other hand i could just say sod it and tax it again.................
Jimbo
JMF894 said:
One more question.............when splitting the lower ball joint does the arb drop link lower nut need to come off and does the track rod end need splitting too?
It looks like they all need to come apart to allow the lower wishbone to drop.
Jimbo
To be honest Jimbo if the car is off the road for a little time its a good idea to check all those bushes that look OKIt looks like they all need to come apart to allow the lower wishbone to drop.
Jimbo
Its a little clutted under those wheel arches, if it was me after the shocks are gone.
1)remove completely the arb with the drops links, check the bushes
2)remove the lead link/tie bar, check the bushes (one you have to remove even if you travel a different route)
3)remove carefully the track rod ends, proper spilter, check for easy movement.
4)break the nut on the lower ball joint
5)jack up the hub, compress the spring, remove the bolt on the chassis side and spring will come out.
^)wack of the bottom ball joint with a spliter these are normally shagged anyway.
7)replace and rebuild but you will need some type of tool to put the spring back in (i made my own, being tight)
best of luck Hotty
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