diy plumbed in Fire Extinguisher?
Discussion
after rebuilding from a fire recently i have decided to build a diy plumbed in system as im on a very tight budget, but dont feel safe without something i can just pull and put it out, its cost me a fortune to rebuild (well not yet finished)
c02 seems to be the best to use without causing damage to anything but can you extend the pipework? and would copper pipe be good enough?
dont really want to use powder due the the corrosive nature (correct me if im wrong) but its a capri so got enough corrosion to worry about :P
any ideas/advice is gonna be helpfull, i have seen the fittings from lifeline and deamontweaks but none are for c02...
the fire stayed in the engine bay and iv got a handheld close to hand for me, just want to limit damage to the engine bay as things like wiring looms are becoming rare now!
also if anyone can reccomend anything i can wrap/slide around my wireing loom to make it fire retardent/proof?
c02 seems to be the best to use without causing damage to anything but can you extend the pipework? and would copper pipe be good enough?
dont really want to use powder due the the corrosive nature (correct me if im wrong) but its a capri so got enough corrosion to worry about :P
any ideas/advice is gonna be helpfull, i have seen the fittings from lifeline and deamontweaks but none are for c02...
the fire stayed in the engine bay and iv got a handheld close to hand for me, just want to limit damage to the engine bay as things like wiring looms are becoming rare now!
also if anyone can reccomend anything i can wrap/slide around my wireing loom to make it fire retardent/proof?
The guy who does all the work on my race cars builds his own plumbed in systems, as they are near impossible to buy here, he using powder extinguishers and bonnet cable pulls for the remote operation, he uses small bore brake type pipe for the lines, he only buys the knozzels.
He has built several systems including my Sylva nd Locaost, and the have all passed scrutinerring at Sepang, send me a PM and I'll take some pictures next week and send to you, and I'll ask him exactly what he uses for the lines, if your interested?, Sorry not at home until next week so can't do sooner
He has built several systems including my Sylva nd Locaost, and the have all passed scrutinerring at Sepang, send me a PM and I'll take some pictures next week and send to you, and I'll ask him exactly what he uses for the lines, if your interested?, Sorry not at home until next week so can't do sooner
thats awsome, i have found some that look like they willl just screw onto where the hose comes out of the Fire Extinguisher and then they sell the hose ect but its not cheep, and when i asked they wont give me a straight answer as to if it will work with standard fire extigusher, however iv found out now that household extiguishers have got a solid syphon tube so have to be used upright, and that car ones have a flexible one so i think iv gotta mount it upright 
anyway
pm sent
any more ideas or anyone got experence with c02?
anyway
pm sent
any more ideas or anyone got experence with c02?
Really, motorsport oriented plumbed in extinguishers are designed to subdue the fire for long enough for the occupant to be rescued. This is why foam is used, as opposed to powder, for the plumbed in system and the hand held bottles.
The effectiveness of a plumbed in extinguisher depends on the location of the nozzles and its a lottery at best.
Id suggest an effective fire fighting kit (pry bar, hand axe, welding gauntlets, eye protection - but ideally kevlar/nomex long sleeved gloves and a face shield) and either a 4kg or a 6kg powder extinguisher modified with an extended hose. This will allow you to get to and tackle virtually all fires with reasonable protection and the long hose will allow you to keep the cylinder upright. You can safely secure the bottle in the boot of your car using plumbed-in bottle mounts.
The only reliable 'detect a fire and press a button to put it out product' would be an high capacity electrical halon system, but unless youre re-building an aeroplane, you simply cant have that now.
The effectiveness of a plumbed in extinguisher depends on the location of the nozzles and its a lottery at best.
Id suggest an effective fire fighting kit (pry bar, hand axe, welding gauntlets, eye protection - but ideally kevlar/nomex long sleeved gloves and a face shield) and either a 4kg or a 6kg powder extinguisher modified with an extended hose. This will allow you to get to and tackle virtually all fires with reasonable protection and the long hose will allow you to keep the cylinder upright. You can safely secure the bottle in the boot of your car using plumbed-in bottle mounts.
The only reliable 'detect a fire and press a button to put it out product' would be an high capacity electrical halon system, but unless youre re-building an aeroplane, you simply cant have that now.
GC8 said:
One further point: fit a proper electrical master switch. Fit it as close as physically possible to the battery (this means virtually touching it) and operate it via a bowden cable.
This is usually a far better fire fighting tool than an extinguisher.
do you mean like a cut off switch for the battery+?This is usually a far better fire fighting tool than an extinguisher.
yea plumbed in systems looking expensive, however im almost 80%sure what will be causing the fire... fitted bike carbs to a pinto, thats what caused it last time not properly set up, but thats gonna be another post!
so being that im pretty sure what area its going to be caused in, a plumbed in system home made possibly, pointing back from the rad and another nozzle closer in again pointing at the carbs and i will just go for a 6kg aff foam one, so it will just soffocate it, and hopefully pressure wash off later with limited damage.... will post the link for the new thread just if anyone wants to have a look..
Powder has a far greater knock down than foam, dont be tempted by AFFFs greater discharge time. Vehicle extinguishers (plumbed-in motorsport type) are designed for a different purpose and foam suits it; but marshalls use powder because it is more effective.
Of course, you cant use powder with tubes and nozzles... Remember that youll have to keep any regular extinguisher bottle upright, which wont be easy with a six litre type.
Of course, you cant use powder with tubes and nozzles... Remember that youll have to keep any regular extinguisher bottle upright, which wont be easy with a six litre type.
GC8 said:
One further point: if the bike carbs are back-firing and this is causing the fire, then fabricate an aluminium airbox!
now there is an idea! how corrosive is the powder?
yea if i fit a larger one it will be mounted upright behind the passenger seat, will pull cord for ease of use if i have to just reach in and pull it,
oh and the other post with pics
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
How will you connect the copper tubing to the valve assembly? Drilling the handles in order to use a bowden cable is easy enough, but adapting the vale isnt.
In your position Id be looking at a fabricated airbox to contain any backfires, an electrical cut out and a hand held powder extinguisher (probably a 4kg with a long hose).
If youre certain that a fire will start on the near side, and youre adamant that you need a plumbed-in extinguisher, then a simple clubman's single cylinder system will suffice, I think and they cost <£100.
ABC powder isnt great, but its a damned site less damaging then a petrol fire!
In your position Id be looking at a fabricated airbox to contain any backfires, an electrical cut out and a hand held powder extinguisher (probably a 4kg with a long hose).
If youre certain that a fire will start on the near side, and youre adamant that you need a plumbed-in extinguisher, then a simple clubman's single cylinder system will suffice, I think and they cost <£100.
ABC powder isnt great, but its a damned site less damaging then a petrol fire!
GC8 said:
How will you connect the copper tubing to the valve assembly? Drilling the handles in order to use a bowden cable is easy enough, but adapting the vale isnt.
In your position Id be looking at a fabricated airbox to contain any backfires, an electrical cut out and a hand held powder extinguisher (probably a 4kg with a long hose).
If youre certain that a fire will start on the near side, and youre adamant that you need a plumbed-in extinguisher, then a simple clubman's single cylinder system will suffice, I think and they cost <£100.
ABC powder isnt great, but its a damned site less damaging then a petrol fire!
yep this is true, i am going to measure up and see what i can come up with as far as the air box goes!In your position Id be looking at a fabricated airbox to contain any backfires, an electrical cut out and a hand held powder extinguisher (probably a 4kg with a long hose).
If youre certain that a fire will start on the near side, and youre adamant that you need a plumbed-in extinguisher, then a simple clubman's single cylinder system will suffice, I think and they cost <£100.
ABC powder isnt great, but its a damned site less damaging then a petrol fire!
and they have got clave adaptors on ebay... and they sell the pipe as well as valves, but now that im pricing all of this im thinking a sub £100 plumbed in system if probably going to cost the same,
only other option being co2, as it can be mounted either way extending the hose is the same almost, and the horn can be shortened, and drilled around the outer part to assist the fluid into gas,
many things to think on,
but the airbox is definatly a good idea!
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